Ultimate e-bike chain oil

[Hugh-Jassman]

I have tried all the chain lubes made for bicycles, what a scam. I do not like any of them. What I need is a spray on lube that works like WD40 yet stays in the chain links like Chain-L.

Chain-L uses some kind of oxide to increase the viscosity of the oil. Aluminum oxide is very affordable from paint maker suppliers. STP uses zinc oxide.

Tungsten Disulfide and Molybdenum Disulfide (MoS2) may be the best dry lubricants. But on chains it may still need a highly viscous oil. Thew price of Molybdenum is going up because they have found that it improves batteries.

Long Chain Fluorocarbon – Teflon PTFE is a saturated aliphatic fluorocarbon, and maybe the most slippery substance known, but I would not want to use it even if it were affordable.

Wax would stay in the links only if it would dry as hard as steel, and keep that slippery surface? Dream on.

Last winter I started experimenting with making Chain-L; being the only lube that will stay in the links [providing you don't ride in the rain and mud like I do]. It turns out to be much easier to make than any one ever thought possible. It's easy mix STP (or aluminum oxide) with a little light oil, but not so easy to get the viscous mix into the chain.

Heating the oil mix or diluting it with a solvent is best. I'm not sure about the solvent yet, it will have to evaporate before riding but it seems to be working.

Modern motor oils thicken when hot, bicycle chains are cold, so don't bother with them.

At this point I intend to just use Acetone in a spray bottle after the car wash. Then apply my Naptha diluted goop {or heated oil combination} from my eyedropper bottle.

Old chains with bushings may have held the lube better than any of the modern chains but it was harder to get the lube into the bushings.

 

[Deafcat]

From experience with high end lubes tailored to bike chains, and mechanical fluid selection in general, one of my all time favourites has been Fuchs RENEP Blue waylube, blended with some air tool oil to achieve preferred consistency. Never tried spraying it on, I suppose that would be possible if say, fatty alcohols were blended in, or possibly synthetic esters.

Nice thing about that Fuchs RENEP is the inclusion of wear additives and corrosion inhibitors, in addition to tackifiers which keep it on the chain really well. Also, it's blue, so it looks cool

 

[Brentis]

I don't know if it's true, don't have the first hand experience, but I was in the LBS today and the tech was making a heck of a case for a wax based lube. Then again he could have just been trying to sell me their most expensive chain lube. He says it stays on longer, is a better water repellant and doesn't hold dirt, grit the same.
I think I'll try.
Just thought I'd throw that out there.

*edit
Missed your experience with wax. Sorry.

 

[Chalo]

At my shop we use Tri-Flow (light wicking oil fortified with PTFE) for customer chains. It's colorless, smells inoffensive, and penetrates all through any mechanism you drip it on. It works great for unsticking dry bolts and drilling, too.

I like to use Dri-Slide Bike Aid (light oil/solvent carrier fortified with moly disulfide) for my own chain. It stains and it's expensive, but it works well for a long time between reapplications.

WD40 isn't an effective lube at all. It's 10% unremarkable light oil and 90% non-lubricative kerosene that slowly evaporates. I imagine it does a good job of what it was designed for-- protecting the stainless steel skins of Atlas and Centaur rocket propellant tanks from corrosion in the short term.

I don't like wax lubes generally. They require more frequent application of larger amounts of lube compared to oils. They also seem to wash out more quickly in wet conditions.

 

[Punx0r]

So many faulty conclusions in one post...

Al203 in oil
Something wrong with PTFE
Wax needs to be hard to work
Engine oil doesn't work on cold things

 

[Chalo]

PTFE is a persistent environmental pollutant that breaks down into carcinogenic and teratogenic components. Maybe that's what he's talking about. Until it breaks down, it's both inert and very effective. Whether it in fact increases the performance of chain oil is an open question. I don't mind having a chance to get some Teflon inside my chain.

If I had access to the PTFE paste I used to have at work for assembling oxygen-rated rocket parts, I would use it as thread lube. That was good stuff.

 

[The fingers]

When we were kids, we used my mom's Singer Sewing Machine Oil on our bicycles, skateboards and roller skates (this was before WD 40 became widely available). I got in trouble for taking it from her sewing room. I still remember her exact words to me as she yelled "DON'T TOUCH MY MACHINE !". :x
When I got a little older and had some money I got some 3 in 1oil from Dooley's Hardware (a store taking up 4 or 5 city blocks that you could ride through quickly on a skateboard, crossing side streets from departments, going through the different buildings with the TV salesman yelling at you). That was a real man's oil. :lol:
Then good ol' WD 40 came along which dripped with the tube applicator and got all over the rims with the somewhat unwanted benefit of eliminating that pedestrian-alerting brake squeal, which comes in handy if you don't have a bell.
During the Gulf War I tried some of that dry lubricant tank aerosol which made your shiny chrome chain all primer grey. It worked pretty good at repelling sand but was ugly.
The clear silicone spray 3 in One I like, it is safer around kids than that poisonous military aerosol. WD 40 now owns 3 in One, so I guess it's all the same, use whatever form you want. :|
Whatever you do, don't use Crisco, it attracts sand like a magnet. Too much useless advice, for sure. :lol:

 

[Hugh-Jassman]

3 in 1 is just thick sewing machine oil, and no one should ever use Teflon. I expect to get cancer form Teflon fry pans....

sewing machine oil is sold under a lot of labels with additives, like Teflon.

Has any one actually used any wax lube that stays in the chain links more than a few days?

I wish you guys would try making your own viscus lube.....start with 25% 3-in-1 .....aluminum and zinc sterates work like soap.

http://www.pdfdrive.net/lubricants-and-additives-for-polymer-compounds-e8386714.html

Note that I am not asking questions here. I already know what works. Although improving it may be done with Molybdenum. I have to spend 25$ on amazon just to try it.

 

[Chalo]

Viscous chain lubes attract crap, then draw it into the mechanism where it serves as a kind of grinding paste.

Heavy chain lubes have a hard time getting deep enough into a chain, especially a chain with full bushings.

The best chain lubes I have used over many years' time have been thin, with solid lubricant additives, and some fraction of evaporating carrier. Bicycles don't have the typical chainsaw and motorcycle problem of slinging off their chain lube, so they don't need sticky oil.

 

[Hillhater]

The clear silicone spray 3 in One I like, it is safer around kids than that poisonous military aerosol. WD 40 now owns 3 in One, so I guess it's all the same, use whatever form you want. :|
. :lol:

WD 40 does not have any worthwhile lubricating properties...its a water dispersant only.

 

[Punx0r]

It's a very thin oil, but it's definitely a lubricating oil.

 

[Hillhater]

From Popular Mechanics test article...

.....Treating a bicycle chain with WD-40 is about as profitable as trying to extinguish a grease fire with a wet haddock. Because its light lubricating properties aren't sufficient to cope with the torque and speed generated by pedaling, WD-40 won't help much. And because water dispersal can degrade heavier existing lubes, it could actually make things worse.....

 

[Lurkin]

Viscous chain lubes attract crap, then draw it into the mechanism where it serves as a kind of grinding paste.

Heavy chain lubes have a hard time getting deep enough into a chain, especially a chain with full bushings.

The best chain lubes I have used over many years' time have been thin, with solid lubricant additives, and some fraction of evaporating carrier. Bicycles don't have the typical chainsaw and motorcycle problem of slinging off their chain lube, so they don't need sticky oil.

Any particular product recommendation Chalo?

I've stuck to wetter lubricants - a shimano chain lube for the time being, but as you say, attracts rubbish. Have tried dry lubes, rock n roll etc but requires reapplication too often.

 

[ecycler]

My grandpa told me a long time ago:

"Any grease is better than no grease."

After a few engineering degrees, thousands of hours building and fixing countless machines big and small in my spare time, and even life experiences that have nothing to do with mechanical devices I am learning he was a pretty freaking smart guy. He could pack a lot of wisdom into few words despite (or perhaps likely due to) the fact that he had zero formal education. I am adding that one to my sig now.

 

[speedmd]

I have been using Dumonde Tech lite for the last six months and like it more than the other oils, dry lubes and wax based stuff I have tried. It goes on wet like a medium-light weight oil and penetrates very well. Great for cables also. After running 30 - 40 minutes it is mostly dry on the surface. If running in dusty conditions, you will want to add it before bedding the bike down. Chain runs fast and free it seems forever after a few applications. So far my favorite ever. Smells like a ester base.

 

[Chalo]

The best chain lubes I have used over many years' time have been thin, with solid lubricant additives, and some fraction of evaporating carrier. Bicycles don't have the typical chainsaw and motorcycle problem of slinging off their chain lube, so they don't need sticky oil.

Any particular product recommendation Chalo?

I've stuck to wetter lubricants - a shimano chain lube for the time being, but as you say, attracts rubbish. Have tried dry lubes, rock n roll etc but requires reapplication too often.

I like regular wet Tri-Flow, and Dri-Slide Bike Aid impresses me even though I'm still trying it out-- I've accumulated less than a year's use so far. Tri-Flow is a touch on the pricey side and Bike Aid verges on horrendously expensive. Tri-Flow leaves a wet film, while Bike Aid dries out but leaves a staining residue. Except for these issues, I like them both. Both of them last pretty well in the not-too-wet, not-too-dusty conditions that prevail here.

If I weren't sponging off the shop's supply, I'd probably just buy wet Tri-Flow and not worry about it.

 

[Chalo]

My grandpa told me a long time ago:

"Any grease is better than no grease."

Every once in a while I come across a customer's bike (usually a young woman's) that has been lubed with olive oil. The sticky, resiny mess that results might change your grandpa's mind.

The welder and framebuilder I work with at my other job-- who is a seasoned master at what he does-- prefers canola oil as a metal cutting fluid. Over time, that also gums up the machinery, but nothing like what I've seen olive oil do to bike chains.

 

[Lurkin]

Interesting - have you tried Tri Flows soy products at all?

I have been curious about moving to more biodegradable products for some time now.

 

[Chalo]

Interesting - have you tried Tri Flows soy products at all?

I have been curious about moving to more biodegradable products for some time now.

I did check out the soy-based Tri-Flow at some point. I found it messier than the others without practical advantages in the bike application.

I've had great results from Lubegard's bio-based machining fluids, and I would be willing to try one of their lubes if I had ready access to one.

 

[friendly1uk]

All my bearings are ptfe/silicone mix, and my chain wd40. Though it should be done regularly to wash out the dirt, I run long service intervals like it was oiled for life or something lol

I have put wd on bicycle chains all my life. It's not just adding lube, it's washing out abrasive ingress, that should be given a little more concideration before writting it off. It's no good for motorcycles though or perhaps mid-drives. It's likely it is to become displaced and allow wear under load is the easiest view on it.

 

[ecycler]

My grandpa told me a long time ago:

"Any grease is better than no grease."

Every once in a while I come across a customer's bike (usually a young woman's) that has been lubed with olive oil. The sticky, resiny mess that results might change your grandpa's mind.

The welder and framebuilder I work with at my other job-- who is a seasoned master at what he does-- prefers canola oil as a metal cutting fluid. Over time, that also gums up the machinery, but nothing like what I've seen olive oil do to bike chains.

hahaha. That is hilarious and truly takes it to the limit of common sense. Simple Green or Kerosene will have no problem 'degreasing' that.

 

[speedmd]

Most of the organic oils will cross link and get gummy with time. Unless they have changed triflow in the past few years, I found it a terrible mess. Lubed very well but ended up with thick layers of greasy grim on everything that was near impossible to keep from spreading on every surface of the shop. Clothes still have stains from it.

 

[Deafcat]

I'm surprised after all the ridiculous suggestions so far, that nobody has suggested Coconut oil

Keep the organic oils where they belong, in Biodiesel, deep fryers and vegan recipes.

I cannot believe anyone is talking about using WD-40 on a bike chain? Or any mechanical interface for that matter? It doesn't even perform well for corrosion prevention, LPS-1 is the superior product. WD-40 is great for general cleaning and cleaning up machined parts, but it offers *no* worthwhile lubricant properties. One may as well be suggesting to use kerosene, turpentine or paint thinner!

 

[speedmd]

WD is a great carrier for fine solids like moly, graphite, carnuba and other dry powder waxes, sulpher, phosporous, ptfe, etc. I use it all the time as a cleaner. It is like armor all for metals.

 

[Hugh-Jassman]

you msut be using chains that have the old bushings. where can I get them?

Viscous chain lubes attract crap, is the line used by most sellers of chain lube to distract you from doing the right thing. not that it will work in all conditions. but I have had good results with it. it does look like crap, but that's why I am experimenting with diluting it so I don't have to add so much.

I do not believe in using thin oils, they cost way tooo much and last only about a week on my chain. If you are using a motor you cannot hear the chain starting to scrape. you will have to just try it with out a motor, on smooth road, to hear the chain noise.

Viscous chain lubes attract crap, then draw it into the mechanism where it serves as a kind of grinding paste.

Heavy chain lubes have a hard time getting deep enough into a chain, especially a chain with full bushings.

The best chain lubes I have used over many years' time have been thin, with solid lubricant additives, and some fraction of evaporating carrier. Bicycles don't have the typical chainsaw and motorcycle problem of slinging off their chain lube, so they don't need sticky oil.