Unknown Contoller

deano

100 mW
Joined
Mar 25, 2015
Messages
41
Location
UK
Have acquired a E-Bike Kit. Going to put on my sons suspension mountain bike.

Can you tell me what the connections are that have no name against them or a PDF to the controller please.?

It is made by MXUS the mode numbers are scuffed but can make out ??36zws xfk075

file.php



I have only Battery, Motor, Controller and Throttle . Is this enough to get it working or is there something else or do I have to do something to get power to the motor. To bench test it.?
 
This is a KT (Kungten) series controller. Those are oriented to use with different LCD displays.

There are several models. These are a pair of examples of wiring sheets.

KT.png

kt36zws-yysh2-color.jpg


So the connections could be like this:

A: Battery
B: Motor Phases
C: Throttle
D: Motor Hall
E: Speed sensor
F: PAS sensor
G: Brakes
H: Display
 
It won't work properly without a LCD. A LCD costs about twice as much as a replacement controller that doesn't need a LCD. There's a way of bypassing the LCD, but you normally only get a minimal amount of power, so don't waste your time doing that unless you only want to test it to see if it works because you want to buy the LCD.

Be careful with those two 5-pin connectors. If you connect the wrong one to the motor, you'll wipe out the motor halls and the controller. One is for the motor and the other for the LCD. Use a meter to measure between the red and the black before connecting. The motor one will be 5v and the LCD one will be 36v.

E and F are for PAS and the wheel-speed sensor. Without the wheel-speed sensor, the controller will probably go to sleep (switch off) after 5 minutes. You need the LCD to change that.

G is for the brake cut-off switches.

Note that the pins on the three-pin connectors are an unusual configuration, so they won't match the throttle, PAS and speed sensor. You have to match them colour to colour. The yellow wire on the one without a black is ground, so consider it as black.
 
That looks like this Hallomotor/Conhismotor unit. Correct current as 13.88 amps at 36v is 500w. It can be used fine without an LCD. You have to jump two wires as pictured.



http://www.hallomotor.com/36v-500w-brushless-dc-sine-wave-ebike-controller-regenerative-function.html
 
BSATOM said:
That looks like this Hallomotor/Conhismotor unit. Correct current as 13.88 amps at 36v is 500w. It can be used fine without an LCD. You have to jump two wires pictured.

Did you try that yourself? We've had lots of people on this forum that did try it, and they reported problems.
 
I bought one and used it on my friends trike I built for him.
The controller comes with the jumper plug included to use without an LCD.
To turn on and set regen braking, to set the number of motor magnet poles, to set PAS assist, and several other important parameters, the LCD is needed.
It is $45 at Hollomotor (link), which is definitely within reach and not too spendy to consider.
I guess we could both be considered correct, but I think that your advice to use one is more realistic now that I run through and remember all the LCD features.

http://www.hallomotor.com/24v-36v-48v-ebike-intelligent-lcd-panel-lcd-display-for-our-sine-wave-controller.html
 
I don't know of anybody that got any meaningful power by jumping the LCD connector. Did you get full power from yours?

It's not just the red and blue wires that have to be bridged, it's the two data wires too (yellow and green).

If it's set with a sleep mode, it'll switch off after 5 or 10 minutes use without the speed sensor. You can't change the sleep mode without the LCD or programming cable.
 
Have connected as picture. Nothing happening. I dont think the throttle is working as tested using method http://www.ebikes.ca/documents/ThrottleTesting.pdf and got no increase in Voltage

I think before I continue I will order Throttle http://www.pandaebikes.com/product/half-twist-throttle-for-electric-bicycle-ebike-viking-e-go-hopper-eco-stepper-2/# and LCD http://www.pandaebikes.com/product/electric-bicycle-e-bike-880-led-display-standard-connections-24v-36v-48v/. I think these are OK unless you know better please?. I live in the UK.

Capture.JPG
 
Put UK in your profile location, Instructions here.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=66302
 
wesnewell said:
Put UK in your profile location, Instructions here.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=66302

What you on about? Just said I am in the UK for anybody recommending a Throttle and LCD I should purchase
 
Those parts are a lot cheaper from BMSBattery.com, but you have to wait about 2 weeks for delivery. It should save you about £50! They're listed as S06S controller and S-LCD3, or you can get the cheaper S-LCD5.
 
deano said:
wesnewell said:
Put UK in your profile location, Instructions here.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=66302

What you on about? Just said I am in the UK for anybody recommending a Throttle and LCD I should purchase
Just trying to help you, but you seem beyond that. Good luck in your search.
 
Thanks d8veh for the heads up on BMSBattery.com. "Time don't matter"

The controller https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/695-s06sc-sine-wave-controller-for-central-motor-ebike-kit.html.

It going to be so much better for the little lad, as being a "Sine Wave Controller" will give him more torque? Which is what is need as he is going to be scrambling up inclines. Speed is not needed.

and that I can change the Controller through the LCD https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/670-s-lcd3-lcd-meter-for-s-series-controlers-ebike-kit.html , so that we are not using any PAS, Brakes, Speed sensor.? So we do not get any of the "switch off" after so many minutes?
 
Thanks to all. Bike is running sweet. All cobbled together :lol:

IMG_20171014_131543.jpg
 
Back
Top