Donne1955
1 µW
I have a wisper 705se have all the electric connectors 9 pin from back hub but main controler etc will not work have new pedal assist magnet installed just main power not working any help appreciated I’m in Weymouth dorset
Wanted best electric conversion kit for wisper 705se
- Thread starter Donne1955
- Start date
Some clarification needed first:
What exactly are you looking for? Your title says you want a conversion kit, which includes everything except the battery in most cases (motor, wheel, control input (throttle or PAS, etc), sometimes a display, battery bag/rack, etc). Your post says you have all the stuff but your controller isn't working, and then that main power isn't working.
So, do you want a whole new kit that replaces everything on the bike, or just to fix what you have (replacing only what's needed)?
Do you want it to work exactly like it did before, or do you want to change anything about the way it worked?
"Main power not working" usually means you have no battery output. If this is the case, you'll need to troubleshoot the battery first. Usually the display will not turn on if this is the case.
If by "main power" you mean the power comes on but the controller doesn't provide any motor power, there are a number of things that can cause that.
If this is the bike you have
wisperbikes.com
they don't provide much in the way of technical info on what's installed; I've included below what I could find on that page and this one
wisperbikes.com
some of which is just implied by separate parts of their text:
PAS high-magnet(pole) count magnet ring on the rightside crank
throttle available up to 4mph without pedalling or 15.5mph with pedalling
250w probably geared brushless rear hubmotor
unspecified controller mounted in unspecified location (but probably in the front of the rear rack) using an unspecified backlit LCD display on the handlebars.
Rear rack mounted lithium 36v battery in one of three sizes 375Wh, 575Wh, 700Wh, some of which are "LG" batteries (doesn't say if these use LG cells, or which ones, or any of the capabilities of the batteries)
No ebrake cutouts
Some of their bikes also have an unspecified type of bottom-bracket torque sensor but it doesn't clearly say if yours has one.
They also have some incorrect info on their site, such as this:
"Never leave a lithium battery completely discharged for more than 12 hours, doing so may damage the cells and void your Warranty."
which would be true of lead-acid, but not lithium. (how they would know how long it was left discharged I don't know--their BMS would have to be a custom complicated design that keeps realtime continuous logs for the entire lifetime of the battery, or at the least write specific events from that realtime information, in a permanent memory to be able to report this information to them).
What exactly are you looking for? Your title says you want a conversion kit, which includes everything except the battery in most cases (motor, wheel, control input (throttle or PAS, etc), sometimes a display, battery bag/rack, etc). Your post says you have all the stuff but your controller isn't working, and then that main power isn't working.
So, do you want a whole new kit that replaces everything on the bike, or just to fix what you have (replacing only what's needed)?
Do you want it to work exactly like it did before, or do you want to change anything about the way it worked?
"Main power not working" usually means you have no battery output. If this is the case, you'll need to troubleshoot the battery first. Usually the display will not turn on if this is the case.
If by "main power" you mean the power comes on but the controller doesn't provide any motor power, there are a number of things that can cause that.
If this is the bike you have
Wisper 705 24" Step-Through E-Bike
Finest The 705 is the industry-leading step-through ebike from Wisper, the UK's #1 ebike brand. Free Next Day Delivery & Cyclescheme available. Buy Now!
wisperbikes.com
FAQs
To better serve our customers, we have compiled a list of frequently asked questions. The list includes questions about our products, shipping, and more.
wisperbikes.com
PAS high-magnet(pole) count magnet ring on the rightside crank
throttle available up to 4mph without pedalling or 15.5mph with pedalling
250w probably geared brushless rear hubmotor
unspecified controller mounted in unspecified location (but probably in the front of the rear rack) using an unspecified backlit LCD display on the handlebars.
Rear rack mounted lithium 36v battery in one of three sizes 375Wh, 575Wh, 700Wh, some of which are "LG" batteries (doesn't say if these use LG cells, or which ones, or any of the capabilities of the batteries)
No ebrake cutouts
Some of their bikes also have an unspecified type of bottom-bracket torque sensor but it doesn't clearly say if yours has one.
They also have some incorrect info on their site, such as this:
"Never leave a lithium battery completely discharged for more than 12 hours, doing so may damage the cells and void your Warranty."
which would be true of lead-acid, but not lithium. (how they would know how long it was left discharged I don't know--their BMS would have to be a custom complicated design that keeps realtime continuous logs for the entire lifetime of the battery, or at the least write specific events from that realtime information, in a permanent memory to be able to report this information to them).
Donne1955
1 µW
Thank you for reply the battery and charger are in good order and had a new magnet fitted to pedal the controller on the handle bars will not work and the main control unit which slots into the battery as water damage the back wheel with the hub motor is fine and I have all the wiring and nine pin controler just thought I could buy a conversion kit to get it working again waiting on reply from Wisper thank you for all your info I’m in Weymouth dorsetSome clarification needed first:
What exactly are you looking for? Your title says you want a conversion kit, which includes everything except the battery in most cases (motor, wheel, control input (throttle or PAS, etc), sometimes a display, battery bag/rack, etc). Your post says you have all the stuff but your controller isn't working, and then that main power isn't working.
So, do you want a whole new kit that replaces everything on the bike, or just to fix what you have (replacing only what's needed. )?
Do you want it to work exactly like it did before, or do you want to change anything about the way it worked?
"Main power not working" usually means you have no battery output. If this is the case, you'll need to troubleshoot the battery first. Usually the display will not turn on if this is the case.
If by "main power" you mean the power comes on but the controller doesn't provide any motor power, there are a number of things that can cause that.
If this is the bike you have
they don't provide much in the way of technical info on what's installed; I've included below what I could find on that page and this oneWisper 705 24" Step-Through E-Bike
Finest The 705 is the industry-leading step-through ebike from Wisper, the UK's #1 ebike brand. Free Next Day Delivery & Cyclescheme available. Buy Now!
some of which is just implied by separate parts of their text:FAQs
To better serve our customers, we have compiled a list of frequently asked questions. The list includes questions about our products, shipping, and more.
PAS high-magnet(pole) count magnet ring on the rightside crank
throttle available up to 4mph without pedalling or 15.5mph with pedalling
250w probably geared brushless rear hubmotor
unspecified controller mounted in unspecified location (but probably in the front of the rear rack) using an unspecified backlit LCD display on the handlebars.
Rear rack mounted lithium 36v battery in one of three sizes 375Wh, 575Wh, 700Wh, some of which are "LG" batteries (doesn't say if these use LG cells, or which ones, or any of the capabilities of the batteries)
No ebrake cutouts
Some of their bikes also have an unspecified type of bottom-bracket torque sensor but it doesn't clearly say if yours has one.
They also have some incorrect info on their site, such as this:
"Never leave a lithium battery completely discharged for more than 12 hours, doing so may damage the cells and void your Warranty."
which would be true of lead-acid, but not lithium. (how they would know how long it was left discharged I don't know--their BMS would have to be a custom complicated design that keeps realtime continuous logs for the entire lifetime of the battery, or at the least write specific events from that realtime information, in a permanent memory to be able to report this information to them).
thebikemun
10 µW
I purchase a lot of Wispers bikes. I am familiar with their electronics to a degree. If it’s a rear motor, it will certainly have the 9 pin julet as male. I have upgraded from their 36v controller system to 48v, 60v and 72v KT sensored controllers as the connectors for the display, motor, PAS, throttle and lights are the same as the Wisper ones so no need to removed any other part apart from their display if you wanted to fitted a battery pack beyond 52v.
If you want to go higher voltage you will need a ‘KT LCD3’ display. Get the 72v version so you will have a safe higher margin to work with.
The modern styled Wisper LCD displays will accept a 48v and a 52v battery pack. Any higher than that, their display will not work. Without going to deep down into the technicals about amps and current, in layman’s terms the higher the battery voltage, the faster the bike will go. All of my Wisper bikes don’t run on anything below 48v. The one I use everyday is the KT LCD3 72v with a 60v 35Ah pack using a KT controller. I’ve dialled up the ‘C’ settings to give maximum amps output. I haven’t looked back. I don’t look back.
If you want to go higher voltage you will need a ‘KT LCD3’ display. Get the 72v version so you will have a safe higher margin to work with.
The modern styled Wisper LCD displays will accept a 48v and a 52v battery pack. Any higher than that, their display will not work. Without going to deep down into the technicals about amps and current, in layman’s terms the higher the battery voltage, the faster the bike will go. All of my Wisper bikes don’t run on anything below 48v. The one I use everyday is the KT LCD3 72v with a 60v 35Ah pack using a KT controller. I’ve dialled up the ‘C’ settings to give maximum amps output. I haven’t looked back. I don’t look back.
Last edited:
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