What is using these watts? Slowly decreasing watt drain on lcd8h..

[Tater salad]

ok,

System is currently;
52v 20ah nominal Kepler battery
•with (let’s say) 10 inch dual XT 90 extension cord. Home made, 2nd try.
KT52v 40a NB…. Is designated 52v.
Bafang G063 with bad connector chopped off and replaced with your standard JSTs and ring connectors into one of them yellow post connector blocks into the standard 3 prong triangle gimmick for connection to controller. 6 pin hall. (I think the white line is actually a speed sensor).
The issue, intermittent power loss with a faulty hall connection notification. Actually, I can make it happen by engaging the throttle before the 5 second “up/fown” timer is over. This requires a restart. And also if I burn hard, coast, the re-engage throttle from freewheel. Also after I have been running, an indicated, slowly decreasing watt drain on the display. The display is displaying to me a watt drain not the display is draining watts.
Gotta be a hall sensor right? I’m Getting variable voltage while turning the wheel and grounded to frame blue/green/yellow though..
bad wiring then right? Fischer price, my first wiring harness. I tried to observe all best practices I could find. I used 12awg for my phase wires, and 18 awg g for my signal.New wire, good heat shrink , flux, lead, burn finger. Single strand 100% copper).
I tested my battery discharge circuit piece by piece. .003 resistance along path. CONTINUITY ACROSS CURRENT PATH AT DISCHARGE receptical (+\-) while unconnected .006, .236, .005 and on and on.
The descending watt drain makes me think of an intermittent short at some location along one of the phase circuits. But I only know enough to be dangerous. Or maybe I’m wrong in assuming that the controller can’t register a drain before itself in a circuit? I just don’t like the idea of feedback if that’s an accurate description of what I’m seeing on the watt display.
Anyway I hope that makes sense, grammatically at least.

Oh yea all phases .43* resistance to axle.

 

[qwerkus]

ok,

System is currently;
52v 20ah nominal Kepler battery
•with (let’s say) 10 inch dual XT 90 extension cord. Home made, 2nd try.
KT52v 40a NB…. Is designated 52v.
Bafang G063 with bad connector chopped off and replaced with your standard JSTs and ring connectors into one of them yellow post connector blocks into the standard 3 prong triangle gimmick for connection to controller. 6 pin hall. (I think the white line is actually a speed sensor).
The issue, intermittent power loss with a faulty hall connection notification. Actually, I can make it happen by engaging the throttle before the 5 second “up/fown” timer is over. This requires a restart. And also if I burn hard, coast, the re-engage throttle from freewheel. Also after I have been running, an indicated, slowly decreasing watt drain on the display. The display is displaying to me a watt drain not the display is draining watts.
Gotta be a hall sensor right? I’m Getting variable voltage while turning the wheel and grounded to frame blue/green/yellow though..
bad wiring then right? Fischer price, my first wiring harness. I tried to observe all best practices I could find. I used 12awg for my phase wires, and 18 awg g for my signal.New wire, good heat shrink , flux, lead, burn finger. Single strand 100% copper).
I tested my battery discharge circuit piece by piece. .003 resistance along path. CONTINUITY ACROSS CURRENT PATH AT DISCHARGE receptical (+\-) while unconnected .006, .236, .005 and on and on.
The descending watt drain makes me think of an intermittent short at some location along one of the phase circuits. But I only know enough to be dangerous. Or maybe I’m wrong in assuming that the controller can’t register a drain before itself in a circuit? I just don’t like the idea of feedback if that’s an accurate description of what I’m seeing on the watt display.
Anyway I hope that makes sense, grammatically at least.

Oh yea all phases .43* resistance to axle.

I'd like to help but can barely understand what you're writing. Why not write a short description in your native language and than paste the entire text into translator like deepl.com before posting it here ? This works much better than trying to translate individual words or sentences.

 

[99t4]

Single strand 100% copper

Solid conductor, as in building electrical wiring? If so, that is not appropriate wire type for a vehicle subject to movement and vibration. Multi stranded flexible wiring is safer and more reliable.

 

[Tater salad]

Solid conductor, as in building electrical wiring? If so, that is not appropriate wire type for a vehicle subject to movement and vibration. Multi stranded flexible wiring is safer and more reliable.

no like telephone switchboard wire. 22ga. I got rid of it. Now I have 20 ga silicone stranded for halls, 14 ga silicone stranded for Phase. I have them grouped together (hall/phase) but wrapped and insulated as a whole for 18 inches or so.
I have also used shielded multi strand/conductor to connect my brakes/throttle and replaced the old harness. I mention This because it a variable. Idk how relevant.

 

[Tater salad]

I'd like to help but can barely understand what you're writing. Why not write a short description in your native language and than paste the entire text into translator like deepl.com before posting it here ? This works much better than trying to translate individual words or sentences.

Sorry. Florida.

 

[Tater salad]

Just out of curiosity, is 3 v of sag @ 1500 watts ok for 4s1421650? And is the overall resistance of the system really a sum of all its parts so to say?

 

[Tater salad]

I'd like to help but can barely understand what you're writing. Why not write a short description in your native language and than paste the entire text into translator like deepl.com before posting it here ? This works much better than trying to translate individual words or sentences.

I had been working on that bike for quite a while at that point….

 

[Tater salad]

So currently, replaced the motor cable again. Proper wire and improved routing helped a whole bunch. Resistance is real, who knew? Its still hatchet work but its not getting hot so if works ok I’ll probably let it roll until I have the 205 mounted. It really needs to be pulled out and replaced I guess.
I still have the “thirsty “ throttle. I’m thinking that it’s some sort of regen feature that ive activated while finger banging this display. I’m basing this theory on the amount and rate of decaying watt consumption indicated on my display. im Going off my quick math here but it seems to consistently start at about 4.5 volts and gradually drop out. Sometimes holding at 14 watts until I power cycle the display. As in; if my battery is 56.something volts, and I’m releasing the throttle after running 100 watts got, I notice the watts get sticky on my display round 250 watts and it tapers off slowly from there, but it can start indicating watts as high up as 400+ after running full tilt for a quarter mile or so, with my hand off the throttle and no PAS hooked up. This power has no perceptible action on the motor that’s why Im guessing regen.?. Oh yea, it didn’t do that last week. Let go and zero.. I feel like doing a reset is giving up.