What reliable, low-power motor for 3rd world touring?

[Zymosis]

That's the gist.

I'm looking to build up a 29er XC bike with fat-ish tires (2.5 - 3") that I can use for 3rd world bike touring. The fat-ish tires because there's a good chance of sandy and muddy conditions. The idea is to use a relatively small battery pack and carry deployable solar panels for charging (build into a sunshade? who knows?). I'm not looking for constant motor usage, but I'd like to have a little help for the hills. Yes, I've been told it's a silly idea. But I like silly ideas, this one in particular.

I'm curious to hear what motors people on here would consider using for such an outlandish endeavor. I'm probably looking for something in the 250-350watt range, relatively lightweight, with a reputation for reliability and preferably the ability to easily fix known mechanical issues on the road if I have the appropriate spare parts and tools.

A few potential ideas include... Q100H/Q100C, Xiongda 2-speed, SmartPie, BBS01.

So, what are your thoughts? If you were aspiring to ebike across the emptiness of some obscure country, what would you choose?

 

[Chalo]

If you were aspiring to ebike across the emptiness of some obscure country, what would you choose?

Something that uses tires and tubes and brake pads you can find on short notice in that obscure country. In other words, not a trendy first world marketing experiment. Local bikes tend to be suited to local conditions, in places where most bikes are used for transportation and not for play.

If the most common kind of utility bike in that country uses ISO 559 tires, that's what you use. If it's ISO 635, that's what you use. If you happen to travel where regular bikes have ISO 622 tires, you're in luck-- when you encounter trouble, you can swap out your 29er rubber with something else and proceed without having to wait for your international air freight to clear customs.

Think hard about whether you want to use disc brakes, and have your own spare parts and a backup plan if you decide you do want them.

As for the motor; you want simplicity, ruggedness, and absence of drag when you aren't using it. Maybe something Stokemonkey-like, but using the smallest feasible direct drive hub motor.

 

[motomech]

That's the gist.

I'm looking to build up a 29er XC bike with fat-ish tires (2.5 - 3") that I can use for 3rd world bike touring. The fat-ish tires because there's a good chance of sandy and muddy conditions. The idea is to use a relatively small battery pack and carry deployable solar panels for charging (build into a sunshade? who knows?). I'm not looking for constant motor usage, but I'd like to have a little help for the hills. Yes, I've been told it's a silly idea. But I like silly ideas, this one in particular.

I'm curious to hear what motors people on here would consider using for such an outlandish endeavor. I'm probably looking for something in the 250-350watt range, relatively lightweight, with a reputation for reliability and preferably the ability to easily fix known mechanical issues on the road if I have the appropriate spare parts and tools.

A few potential ideas include... Q100H/Q100C, Xiongda 2-speed, SmartPie, BBS01.

So, what are your thoughts? If you were aspiring to ebike across the emptiness of some obscure country, what would you choose?

You will need a trailer or a trike.
Maybe a 2WD ,mini build, two of everything, but only use one at a time. Like 2) Q100H's (201).

If you were aspiring to ebike across the emptiness of some obscure country, what would you choose?

A 100 cc gas motorbike. No matter how far you get off the beaten track, there is always someone who will sell you a used liter Coke bottle of gas.

 

[ebikedelight]

If I were planning the same 3rd world mission as you are, and knew that finding parts would be a possible hassle, I would not even go with standard tires/ tubes....I would use solid air free tires . Ive been using them for 5 years on my giant brand electric bike . I cannot tell you the great piece of mind that comes with knowing you will never get a flat tire or need to change tires/ tubes due to a blowout or flat. Yes, they give a slightly stiffer ride , but if I were using it to do a 3rd world excursion, then the piece of mind they give me is well worth their weight in gold.

You would not have to worry about carrying or buying extra tires, tubes , tools . There will be some naysayers who say that the airfree tires are crap....dont listen to them...Ive been using them for 5 years in a size 700c x 35 . If you decide to try them out, I would suggest to go with 12 gauge spokes and make sure your wheels are properly laced , trued then stretched . Maybe even consider tying the spokes with steel wire , where they cross, for added stability over the very rough roads in 3rd world settings.

With this type of setup , the only thing you would probably need to carry on your ride, would be a small spoke wrench, for possible spoke tensioning during your trip.

 

[ebikedelight]

A 100 cc gas motorbike. No matter how far you get off the beaten track, there is always someone who will sell you a used liter Coke bottle of gas.[/quote]


Very debatable.

The poster in question, has admitted that he is mainly looking for a low powered option, because his needs are mainly for assistance from a motorized bike, not full power . He doesnt mind pedalling and wants to keep the bike low powered and light and as maintenance free as possible. Therefore, a 100 cc motorcyle does not seem to fit his needs well. Also, he would have to worry about a myriad of possible maintenance issues....oil, gas, air filter , spark plugs , etc....along with the noise factor of a combustion engine.

If I were the poster...I would go with a geared front mount hub motor of around 250 watts { and put on a torque arm for extra protection } because thats the easiest installation possible , go with 2 airfree tires , and make sure to purchase a high quality controller { like the LYEN} and a high quality battery .

As far as using solar power to charge lifepo4...I have checked into this option and have been told by reputable lifepo4 manufacturers , that it will work....

In fact, you dont even need a charge controller ,as long as your lifepo4 battery voltage matchs the output of your solar panels.

In other words, lets say you have a 48 volt lifepo4..that has a full charge voltage reading of 58.4- 60 volts . you could string together several 12 volt panels , montior their voltage output , in full sun , and use tape or something , to get 60 volts out of them , it would directly charge the lifepo4 battery.

THE KEY IS TO NEVER ALLOW the 48 volt lifepo4 battery to recieve a higher charge then 60 volts . ...and since the poster would only be using his ebike , mainly for pedal assist , he could get functionality out of his battery being charged to a less then full state....like 48- 54 volt areas.

 

[Jonathan in Hiram]

Ebikes.ca has a reputation for quality products and they sell something in the range of what you are looking for.

http://www.ebikes.ca/product-info/3rd-party/geared.html

For charging you can use a DC to DC converter from your panel to your battery, there are several threads here about doing it. For the assist type unit you envision a lower powered converter would be sufficient and they are light enough and cheap enough that carrying a spare or even two is more than worthwhile. Getting a decent match between solar panels and batteries is a bit of an issue and a DC-DC converter is one of the more straightforward ways of dealing with it, you can get units to either boost up the voltage (boost) or drop the voltage down (buck).

If you are going to be camping solar could give you power at your campsite and carrying more cells and solar than strictly needed for transportation is a consideration too.

 

[MadRhino]

A small friction drive pack, one that could fit on the front of any bike. If it is gas powered, probably better. You can have bikes for cheap anywhere, and trade it instead of fixing anything.

Else you gotta build a very reliable bike, that you can protect from thieves, and extra luggage repair kit to fix it anywhere.

 

[Chalo]

I would use solid air free tires . [...] Yes, they give a slightly stiffer ride , but if I were using it to do a 3rd world excursion, then the piece of mind they give me is well worth their weight in gold. [...] I would suggest to go with 12 gauge spokes

Roads in undeveloped countries tend to be bad.

Foam tires apply point loads to wheels and destroy them quickly.

Thick spokes make bicycle wheels that self-disassemble under riding loads, even with pneumatic tires.

In my opinion, all these things can't be reconciled. The horrible ride quality, high rolling resistance, and poor load carrying characteristics of foam tires are secondary concerns by comparison. Foam tires do have their place, but it is in forgiving situations-- good surfaces, short rides, modest weights. That doesn't cover third world adventure touring.

MadRhino's suggestion of a friction drive unit is insightful, and I considered that too. My concerns about it were decreased energy efficiency, incompatibility with deeply treaded tires, incompatibility with muddy riding surfaces, and the friction unit potentially taking up a location on the bike that could be used for luggage or batteries.

 

[ebikedelight]

I would use solid air free tires . [...] Yes, they give a slightly stiffer ride , but if I were using it to do a 3rd world excursion, then the piece of mind they give me is well worth their weight in gold. [...] I would suggest to go with 12 gauge spokes

Roads in undeveloped countries tend to be bad.

Foam tires apply point loads to wheels and destroy them quickly.

Thick spokes make bicycle wheels that self-disassemble under riding loads, even with pneumatic tires.

In my opinion, all these things can't be reconciled. The horrible ride quality, high rolling resistance, and poor load carrying characteristics of foam tires are secondary concerns by comparison. Foam tires do have their place, but it is in forgiving situations-- good surfaces, short rides, modest weights. That doesn't cover third world adventure touring.

MadRhino's suggestion of a friction drive unit is insightful, and I considered that too. My concerns about it were decreased energy efficiency, incompatibility with deeply treaded tires, incompatibility with muddy riding surfaces, and the friction unit potentially taking up a location on the bike that could be used for luggage or batteries.

Once again..Ive driven a ebike with solid air free tires, for 5 years...so I have a bit of experience..

yes, they give a stiffer ride...but that can be overcome by using a softer seat, or a thud buster seatpost, etc.

The poster that is looking for options in this thread, wont be doing 20-30 mph over potholes...he is looking for more of a ebike that provides assistance...if he goes with 12 gauge spokes, properly laced and trued, I doubt he will have issues with the airfree tires..and he will have the peace of mind of NEVER worrying about a tire that has a hole int it..a flat tube...or carrying a air pump or other tolls related to changing flat tires in a 3rd world setting.

As far as a friction drive, I think thats a horrible idea....we are talking about 3rd world roads, that will be muddy , have pebbles, and be undeveloped..alal thos things will ensure a inefficient performance of a friction drive setup .

IMHO..his best overall setup, for his needs, and reliability would be

250 watt front mount geared hub motor...reliable controller from LYEN..reliable 40 volt - 20 ah lifepo4 battery..and front and back air free tires.

as far as your concerns about the spokes dissasembling .....if the wheel is laced properly..and locktite is used...that wont be a issue at all...furthermore..he could simply put a small dab of clear silicon onto the head of the spoke nipple, that sticks out of the rim, which would further ensure it cant unscrew on its own.

 

[Chalo]

Foam tires do have their place, but it is in forgiving situations-- good surfaces, short rides, modest weights. That doesn't cover third world adventure touring.

Once again..Ive driven a ebike with solid air free tires, for 5 years...so I have a bit of experience..

The fact that you still like them suggests that in those five years you've ridden neither far, nor hard, nor on poor surfaces. There are very good reasons that a flatless tire has never become common anywhere in the world. But of course you must understand something that the entire rest of the world has missed for lack of your insight.

yes, they give a stiffer ride...but that can be overcome by using a softer seat, or a thud buster seatpost, etc.

Your wheels can't benefit from any of these. And foam tires are far more destructive to your wheels even than they are to your comfort.

if he goes with 12 gauge spokes, properly laced and trued, I doubt he will have issues with the airfree tires..

Thick spokes don't make the rim any stronger or stiffer. it's the rim that gets beat up and bent when you use foam tires.

as far as your concerns about the spokes dissasembling .....if the wheel is laced properly..and locktite is used...that wont be a issue at all.

So you're suggesting a tire that will cause the wheel to chronically become bent out of true, and you suggest Loctite on the spokes as a remedy for overthick spokes? You must really dislike this guy, or else never do any of your own maintenance. When wheels go out of true, spokes have to turn. If the Loctite even allows them to turn, then they're not locked in place anymore. That's a terrible can of worms.

 

[ebikedelight]

Foam tires do have their place, but it is in forgiving situations-- good surfaces, short rides, modest weights. That doesn't cover third world adventure touring.

Once again..Ive driven a ebike with solid air free tires, for 5 years...so I have a bit of experience..

The fact that you still like them suggests that in those five years you've ridden neither far, nor hard, nor on poor surfaces. There are very good reasons that a flatless tire has never become common anywhere in the world. But of course you must understand something that the entire rest of the world has missed for lack of your insight.

yes, they give a stiffer ride...but that can be overcome by using a softer seat, or a thud buster seatpost, etc.

Your wheels can't benefit from any of these. And foam tires are far more destructive to your wheels even than they are to your comfort.

if he goes with 12 gauge spokes, properly laced and trued, I doubt he will have issues with the airfree tires..

Thick spokes don't make the rim any stronger or stiffer. it's the rim that gets beat up and bent when you use foam tires.

as far as your concerns about the spokes dissasembling .....if the wheel is laced properly..and locktite is used...that wont be a issue at all.

So you're suggesting a tire that will cause the wheel to chronically become bent out of true, and you suggest Loctite on the spokes as a remedy for overthick spokes? You must really dislike this guy, or else never do any of your own maintenance. When wheels go out of true, spokes have to turn. If the Loctite even allows them to turn, then they're not locked in place anymore. That's a terrible can of worms.

Ive used air free tires for 5 years, on my 700 c ebike.

Never had a tire problem or a spoke break. I used 12 gauge spokes , with loctite , and then tied them with steel wire where they cross. Of course I stress relieve the spokes once it is laced and trued, then true it again...then set everyhting in place . Of course I dont ride over potholes at 25 mph , which is something most people shouldnt do anyways, with or without pneumatic tires on a bicycle.

The friction drive is a horrible idea....the wear and tear would be awful considering he is riding in undeveloped, muddy, wet gravel, dirt roads.

The simple fact is this...in regards to breakdowns on a bicycle, the most common problem is tires/ flats.If he wishes to avoid that problem , then airfree tires is a alternative that works. As far as his rims are concerned, he could use double walled rims..that are stronger . I still think if he rides with common sense and is using his ebike mostly as a peddle assist, and not doing 20 mph over potholes, he wont have problems with the air free tires. Ive used em for 5 years..how many years have you used them for ? Point made.

One thing we neglected to debate, was this guys bodyweight and how much weight he plans to carry on his ebike....

If he weighs 270 lbs..then I agree that air free tires may not be the best option....if he weighs under 200 lbs...then I think its a very possible choice....also, we dont even address the possibility of suspension....if hes got that , then air free tires are even more likely a good choice since the bumps would have less impact on the rims / bike.

 

[Punx0r]

I would go with Chalo's advice and add: Carry high quality tools and know how to use them. People in remote places know how to fix their shit. Sometimes their lives depend on not being stranded. With that in mind I would definitely go for rim brakes over disc brakes. They may require more maintenance/adjustment, but you can easily do this in the field. I also can't think of many ways you could repair a disc brake using cable ties...

 

[Zymosis]

So many great thoughts and discussion in this thread - thank you all!

I think friction drive is out, mostly for fear of effectiveness in wet/muddy conditions.

A small hub motor has been the most appealing thought, due to the size/weight. I'd been thinking of a rwd setup but perhaps a fwd setup makes more sense, as perhaps it eliminates some risk by being separate and preserving a more reliable human-powered drivetrain. I wonder if I could be ok with something like a Q100/Outrider if I brought some extra gears and such - are there many non-fixable failure modes for a geared hub motor?

The stokemonkey or mid-drive is an interesting thought as well, especially because it seems like potentially the easiest method of cutting the e-train free if shit hits the fan, whereas a seized hub motor could be a show-stopper. But how many small/light kits that integrate to the bb are out there? I'm not necessarily looking for to Frankenstein this bike, would much rather use an existing setup.

The tire discussion is a very interesting one, and one that I'll have to dig into deeper. I imagine that I'll want to carry spare tubes/tires if I go the inflatable route, in addition to any puncture-reducing measure available. The solid tires are interesting and something I will look into further. Regarding the potential for rim/smoke failure, I've heard amazing things about the benefits of adding a few bamboo spokes. These guys did 18.5k without any issues and attribute a lot of that to the bamboo spoke additions, so I wonder about solid tires plus this type of reinforcement:
http://calfeedesign.com/18-5k-miles-calfee-bamboo/

Glad to hear the solar charging thing isn't uncharted territory. I'd probably use a small mppt charge controller for sanity's sake.

I'd like to avoid a trailer, and really don't think I'll need one. In the backpacking realm I'm an ounce-counting weight weenie. For reference, I weigh ~160 and imagine my base weight (for gear) will be around 15lbs, not counting bike-specific tools/parts or food/water. I think a total weight of ~30-35lbs should be doable. I should mention that I'm also planning on running a front suspension fork because I've got wrist problems, which should help with impact loading to the front wheel.

 

[ebikedelight]

So many great thoughts and discussion in this thread - thank you all!

I think friction drive is out, mostly for fear of effectiveness in wet/muddy conditions.

A small hub motor has been the most appealing thought, due to the size/weight. I'd been thinking of a rwd setup but perhaps a fwd setup makes more sense, as perhaps it eliminates some risk by being separate and preserving a more reliable human-powered drivetrain. I wonder if I could be ok with something like a Q100/Outrider if I brought some extra gears and such - are there many non-fixable failure modes for a geared hub motor?

The stokemonkey or mid-drive is an interesting thought as well, especially because it seems like potentially the easiest method of cutting the e-train free if shit hits the fan, whereas a seized hub motor could be a show-stopper. But how many small/light kits that integrate to the bb are out there? I'm not necessarily looking for to Frankenstein this bike, would much rather use an existing setup.

The tire discussion is a very interesting one, and one that I'll have to dig into deeper. I imagine that I'll want to carry spare tubes/tires if I go the inflatable route, in addition to any puncture-reducing measure available. The solid tires are interesting and something I will look into further. Regarding the potential for rim/smoke failure, I've heard amazing things about the benefits of adding a few bamboo spokes. These guys did 18.5k without any issues and attribute a lot of that to the bamboo spoke additions, so I wonder about solid tires plus this type of reinforcement:
http://calfeedesign.com/18-5k-miles-calfee-bamboo/

Glad to hear the solar charging thing isn't uncharted territory. I'd probably use a small mppt charge controller for sanity's sake.

I'd like to avoid a trailer, and really don't think I'll need one. In the backpacking realm I'm an ounce-counting weight weenie. For reference, I weigh ~160 and imagine my base weight (for gear) will be around 15lbs, not counting bike-specific tools/parts or food/water. I think a total weight of ~30-35lbs should be doable. I should mention that I'm also planning on running a front suspension fork because I've got wrist problems, which should help with impact loading to the front wheel.

Most of the people who claim that air free tires on a bicycle, is a complete failure, have never even tried air free tires for a length of time. Ive used em for 5 years now...

sure, they give a stiffer ride and are gonna be a bit harder on your rims..thats common sense. However, is you use common sense when riding and wont be hauling 270 lb loads on your bike , they are something to consider. For the few negatives about them..lets look at the positives.

1. THE TIRES LAST FOR THOUSANDS OF MILES IN MANY CASES..AND EVEN WHEN THE TREAD WEARS LOW, YOU CAN STILL RIDE ON THEM WITHOUT FEAR OF A BLOWOUT.

2. NEVER HAVE TO USE A TUBE OR WORRY ABOUT AIR PRESSURE

3. NEVER HAVE A BLOWOUT, FLAT TIRE , OR WORRY ABOUT NAILS, THORNS OR OTHER OBJECTS PUNCTURING YOUR TIRE AND STRANDING YOU

4. NO NEED TO CARRY A AIR PUMP, EXTRA TUBES, PATCHES ,ETC.

5. NO NEED TO WORRY ABOUT A BLOWOUT ON YOUR TIRE, CAUSING YOU INJURY WHILE YOU ARE GOING AT A SIGNIFICANT RATE OF SPEED DOWNHILL.

I paid $32 each for my air free tires..and have gotten 5 years of carefree use out of em...Id say I got my moneys worth.

If you decide to try air free tires, I would recomeend going with 12- 13 gauge spokes..have your wheels proffesionally laced , trued, stress relieved, then trued again ..which will help keep your wheels/ spokes in proper alignment . You could take a small, lightweight spoke wrench with you , just in case you start to notice a spoke is in need of tightening/ adjustment.

This is what I would do, if I were in your situation....cause I surely would not want the hassle of always being concerned about having blowouts, then having to carry or find tubes to buy, in 3rd world nations...the air free tires would basically take away a huge worry in regards to dealing with the most common issue bicyclists face...blowouts and repairng them on the road.

at your bodyweight of 160 lbs....that isnt gonna be alot of stress on your wheels/ tires....hell..I weigh 240 lbs and been using air free tires for 5 years...you weigh 80 lbs less then me...so I doubt your gonna be having spokes break and rims bend...LOL..

 

[miuan]

whatever motor you choose please do take the time and replace the stock bearings and hall sensors with the best you can find. set the phase current low enough to avoid stressing the system.

 

[Jonathan in Hiram]

If I were doing what you plan I'd put together two of everything critical that can't be had or bodged on the journey and have the second lot with a trusted friend/family member ready to ship out any particular part by the fastest means possible if you break something in the deep boonies.

Connectors are going to be an issue, most of the ebike problems I've had have come down to connector or connection troubles of one sort or another. It's difficult to overdo making solid connections and sealing them well against intrusion of foreign substances and doing so while making it detachable for repair purposes makes it more difficult. I believe the Outrider motors and associated electronics have a good sealing system on the wiring already so that's a point to keep in mind.

Someone on a recent thread mention wrapping tubes in plastic envelopes you can get at Fed Ex or the Post Office (US)... Supposed to be lightweight and tough puncture resistance.

 

[Zymosis]

If I were doing what you plan I'd put together two of everything critical that can't be had or bodged on the journey and have the second lot with a trusted friend/family member ready to ship out any particular part by the fastest means possible if you break something in the deep boonies.

Connectors are going to be an issue, most of the ebike problems I've had have come down to connector or connection troubles of one sort or another. It's difficult to overdo making solid connections and sealing them well against intrusion of foreign substances and doing so while making it detachable for repair purposes makes it more difficult. I believe the Outrider motors and associated electronics have a good sealing system on the wiring already so that's a point to keep in mind.

Someone on a recent thread mention wrapping tubes in plastic envelopes you can get at Fed Ex or the Post Office (US)... Supposed to be lightweight and tough puncture resistance.

I had already planned to leave a complete assortment of spares with a trusted friend/family member, for essentially the same reasons you listed. Nice to hear it from someone else though.

I have the tools/skills to replace questionable connectors with some better, sealed ones. That's actually something I'd been thinking about already, though I'm not sure what specific connectors I'd use if I wanted to replace them. Always easy to have some silicone and electrical grease on hand too, and maybe some basic wiring tools.

 

[liveforphysics]

I think your adventure sounds awesome. I've been thinking about doing similar, perhaps a ticket to the bottom of South America, and then try to get home.

Weatherproof your battery and all electronics to an extent that seems overkill. Then ideally still have spares with you. The solid tire idea sounds very attractive IMHO.

I would also plan on making anything you bring appear unappealing and worthless. Your trip will go much smoother that way. I would personally include painted on simulated heavy rust and fake lashed with twine and branches repair jobs and things.

 

[liveforphysics]

Duct tape wrapped patches with a piece of wood bracing the inside of the rim and 1 front fork leg braced with a wrapped twine splint at the least. Everything looking painted to look heavily coroded and maybe some real welded on scab plates.

Battery should be stashed inside some old lead acid plastic case with liberally painted corrosion and fake battery acid drips coming from multiple places.

Spending that extra effort seems like time we'll spent depending on where you're going.

 

[Zymosis]

I think your adventure sounds awesome. I've been thinking about doing similar, perhaps a ticket to the bottom of South America, and then try to get home.

Weatherproof your battery and all electronics to an extent that seems overkill. Then ideally still have spares with you. The solid tire idea sounds very attractive IMHO.

I would also plan on making anything you bring appear unappealing and worthless. Your trip will go much smoother that way. I would personally include painted on simulated heavy rust and fake lashed with twine and branches repair jobs and things.

Duct tape wrapped patches with a piece of wood bracing the inside of the rim and 1 front fork leg braced with a wrapped twine splint at the least. Everything looking painted to look heavily coroded and maybe some real welded on scab plates.

Battery should be stashed inside some old lead acid plastic case with liberally painted corrosion and fake battery acid drips coming from multiple places.

Spending that extra effort seems like time we'll spent depending on where you're going.

Thank you kind sir for the great ideas! It very much reminds me of a friend's travel camera - he wrapped a nice point-and-shoot in the outer cardboard of a disposable digital camera, and used a crocheted sock as a case. You really had to look hard to notice that it wasn't an actual disposable. I love the painted-on rust and cosmetic non-structural structural bracing. Somewhat reminds me of an excellent episode of the Dirtbag Diaries wherein the rider fashioned a mud guard out of a piece of junk plastic he found on the road.

I figured all the electronics and battery would be hidden/protected in the bottom of one of the rear panniers. But yes, absolutely as much weatherproofing as I can manage. I have a buddy who knows about such things that I'll probably consult when the time comes.

As I'd like to do this trip with a riding partner, it seems like it would make sense to standardize as much componentry as possible, to have a more efficient set of spare parts. And speaking of which, still working on that whole riding partner thing. Liveforphysics, interested in a pre-south america trial run across a smaller distance, like Mongolia or similar?

 

[hjns]

Hmm, nice challenge! If it is really for assist, I would recommend something like a 8t or 10t geared mac, and try to pair it with a sensor less controller. For low speed application, that should work. Furthermore, a 6 FET controller is small enough so that you could carry two or three, so that this electronic part is not the weakest link. Take two small batteries, so you can partially charge one while driving with the other. You will have a natural limit to your normal e-range on the battery your driving with, while still having the second battery for crisis should this occur.

Don't use a CA or any other computer, it can only break down. Just a simple throttle, with the controller programmed for 15 amps max. Again, throttles are small enough that you can carry two.

Build everything in a modular way, so you can easily swap controllers or throttles or batteries. Don't expect an e-range of more than 15 km and plan your trip for pedal-only, that way you won't be disappointed. ..

 

[ebikedelight]

interested in a pre-south america trial run across a smaller distance, like Mongolia or similar?

In such a hard root was tested the BEWO Mid-drive KIT for 5000Km, it did survived and the company gained EU and Chinese certification.
http://www.tjbewo.com/En/CMS.aspx?cid=13

How many times are you gonna keep pushing that stupid low power, over priced, mid drive kit ? Do you work for them ? Give it a break dude.

 

[Drunkskunk]

This sounds like an epic ride.

You'll want to carefully consider what Chalo said about tires and wheels. He probably knows more about wheels and tires than the rest of us combined. Flats happen, but can be fixed. They can also be prevented with quality tires, tubes, and tire sealants. I've been 10s of thousands of miles without a flat even riding through thorn bushes and briar patches that are common on the trails around here, on comfortable and efficient air filled tires.

Solid tires aren't worth destroying your rims or shaking your bike apart, and thick spokes would only make the rim situation worse. They only belong on children's bikes that probably won't be rode more than 2 hours a year anyway, or on shop bikes in a warehouse.

I would run ISO 559 since it's more easily obtainable in most of the world, and fit a 2.5" tire like a Hookworm for most of your riding. But also carry a folding 2.5" DH style off road tread tire for areas where you need traction.


In addition to what you carry with you, I would make up "Care packages" of spares you might need but don't have room to take. box them up and leave them with a friend who can arrange to have them overnighted to you in case you have a breakdown more serious than you can fix with what you have. Extra sprockets, spindles, hubs, bearings, chains, gears, brake levers, cables, seats, forks, spokes, etc. You can ship back what you don't use, and they can send it again if you need it again. Costly when you need it, but you might never need it.

 

[ebikedelight]

Solid tires aren't worth destroying your rims or shaking your bike apart,

.

I weigh around 240 lbs and have used solid tires on my 700 c giant electric bike for 5 years...and my bike can do 35 mph top speed ..and my bike isnt " shaking apart"

The guy asking for advice weighs almost 70 lbs less then me...wont be doing high speeds..and is mainly interested in pedal assist . ...so I doubt if he uses air free tires, his spokes will fly apart and his bike will shake apart.

Now, if this guy weighed alot..and wanted to do high speeds, over pot holes and trails, then it would be a terrible choice to use air free tires....but he wont be doing any of that and he is looking for options that wont require much maintenance or tracking down parts while in a 3rd world nation. If I was doing what he is gonna be doing...I would absoloutley go with air free tires......and it would take away all the concerns over having to replace tubes/ tires and dealing with flats during his expedition....I would carry a spoke wrench, just in case some spokes needed adjusting along the way.

 

[ebikedelight]

To all the posters who keep saying things like "

IF YOU USE AIR FREE TIRES, YOU WILL SHAKE YOUR BIKE APART..YOU WILL DESTROY YOUR RIM..YOU WILL BEND YOUR SPOKES..ETC...

heres some more proof you do not know what you are talking about.,

This guy has been using air free tires for 6 years....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J1R8aEg6R1E

Ive personally used them for 5 years....and have not had any problems...other then they give a stiffer ride.

So please, stop giving out bad advice or making claims about a subject that you obviously do not have much experience with.

The air free tires of today..are not like the ones used decades ago...the technology has improved and is a viable option for certain situations.

Now, if a person is looking for the most comfortable tire / ride they can obtain..then air free tires are not the answer. If a person is looking to have a tire that is made to do 30 mph over curbs and potholes, then the air free tire is not the answer.