Y connector for parelleling batteries?

[Crash Machine]

I want build a Y-connector for paralleling my batteries. What's the best way to take the two negative and the two positive down to one positive and one negative? Powerwerks has this splitter but I'm not sure if it will work. I going to order 25 of the 30 amp Anderson powerpoles for 12 gauge wires and 25 of the 45 amp powerpoles for 10 gauge wire. Or can I use the 45 amp models for both 10 and 12 gauge wire? I know this sounds pretty noobish but I want to do it right. Will the splitter in this pic. work?

 

[TPA]

the website says they are for taking a single pair as input to allow the other three as output.

It sounds as though each red is parallel connected inside the case....
and the same for black

If that is the case I cannot see why it would not work in reverse.

in other words, why you could not use 2 pairs as input and 1 pair as output...except that they (Powerwerx) would not like the possibility of overloading it.

I have six pairs I need to input to one output. My controller maxes at 35A and my batts are 36v, so it should work.

I may just try it, I've been looking for something like that for a long time, Thanks for that!

 

[dogman dan]

For a lower amp setup, I just made Y connectors with 12 guage wire and 30 amp andersons. Obviously you don't get two 12 guage wires into a contact, so I cut away enough strands to stuff two wires into one contact for the paralell Y connection. I'll only be pulling 15 amps max from each battery so I figured it was ok. 22 amp controller, so I figured not much more than 15 amps from each wire. Have em both fully charged before you make the connection for sure! The can charge together, but much better to charge each pack seperate.

Yeah, I know, diodes would be good, but this is for my pair of 24v 8 ah nicads, that are considered recreational-expendable. On a long ride on my aotema motor, I could just get away with running 24v if the speed was slow and the route flat. Series connecting the batteries, it would be harder to ride slow and get the same range. 99% of the time, I run these two packs series connected. I made another connector for that so I could plug in a series connection without having to think about it so hard, and prevent a spectacular screw up.

I haven't seen a 45 amp contact, but it should be possible to crimp a 45 amp onto 12 guage wire. You could take some strands and add them to the 12 guage wire to make it fatter, crimp it, and then trim away the filler strands perhaps. Mabye two 12 guage wires could fit into the 45 amp?

 

[docnjoj]

For my 4// Fatpacks I was able to use Posilocks 6 gauge to 12 gauge screw connectors and went 4-2-1 for both red and black. These things work real easy and have extremely positive screw contact. Final connection to the controller is Andersons, of course. If I decide to change the configuation, I can simply unscrew Posilocks. Easy peasy!
otherDoc

 

[scoot]

I have one of those. They are constructed with a bus bar inside that will handle more current that the connector parts and should work great for splitting or combining if the amp rating is not exceeded on any one connector. I think they are pretty slick... electrical LEGOS :lol: . Then you'll have a spare pair of sockets to hook up things... very convenient IMO.

The mating 45amp connectors will handle single 12g and 10g with insulation just fine. They will also handle the copper strand portion of two - 12g wires but the insultation will not fit in the backside, so some heat shrink addition on the backside would be in order in that case. I highly recommend the crimper they sell... it works very well and worth the investment, especially if you like using the anderson pp conectors as much as I do :

http://www.powerwerx.com/tools-meters/tricrimp-crimping-powerpole-contacts.html

If I were y connecting multiple packs and anticpating higher current, I would probably consider the 75 amp splitter they make:

http://www.powerwerx.com/powerpole-power-splitters/ps-75-45-4.html

 

[Crash Machine]

I may just try it, I've been looking for something like that for a long time, Thanks for that!

No,thank you guys. Just ordered 25 ea. 30 and 45 amp powerpoles with the crimping tool. Plus one of the connectors as seen above.All from Powerwerks.com. So I'll build it and let you know how it works plus pictures.
This has needed to be done for a while. I've still got the stock connectors, the hooded "C13" connector. I kinda like 'em because they're idiot proof but it's hard to replace them. Conntech has some DIY C13 connectors but they won't hold 10 gauge wire. And they're a pain in the butt. Plus this should lower my internal resistance enough to upgrade to a more powerful motor or dual drive, right? I'm considering a BMC V2-T.
Oh, and I am using 2 diodes that Ping sent me for free . I think each case actually holds two diodes. Here's what they look like...View attachment 1View attachment l_d2953f0af111452d9e5f0b27c700e3c6.jpg

 

[Crash Machine]

Finally got my Anderson connectors yesterday.Took me a minute to figure out, but once that first one clicked into place I was a happy man :lol: . The tool is invaluable to the process. I ended up doubling my ground wire because I didn't have 10 gauge. Two 12 gauge did fit into the 45 amp poles quite nicely if a little snug. The 4-way connector worked wonderfully to bring everything together. Plus I can now run two controllers in parellel form the output side right?
One of my batteries(10Ah) is up front one 10 gauge extension line. Will this cause a problem? How large of a motor could be run off this set-up? View attachment l_384c97f78b0e4c69b3455784bc18d7a0.jpgThat's a beautiful sight!!

 

[scoot]

Looks like you're having a blast :wink: .

I have to emphasize my lack of experience here, so take what I am about to say with a grain salt. Hopefully again, some others can confirm or un-confirm this:

One thing I think you may run into, is that when the smaller pack drains to near empty, it may shut down (if that's the way the BMS works) and leave the larger pack to do all the remaining work. Then you may have to disconnect and reconnect the smaller pack (reset) before you can run it in parallel with the bigger pack again. :? I don't know about the motor question :|

It may be that having the larger 10g wire for the longer distance connection is good.

 

[will_newton]

just as a note, the 45A connectors are not beefier than the 35A, they are just designed to hold a larger gauge wire. Same for the 15A (smaller wire gauge). The housings are interchangeable.

 

[Crash Machine]

Looks like you're having a blast :wink: .

More fun than a barrel of monkeys :lol: . I don't even really need the diodes but I just wanted something to build. Get a feel for the Anderson connectors. I may just build a straight Y connector. Just got everything on the bike today. I left it so I could connect my Cycle Anylst to each battery independently. I've got a route that I use as a baseline 9.9 miles that is basically my ride to the grocery store. Includes some 12% hills(mapmyride.com). So I already have stats. for that. Then I'll just run it with the C.A. hook to first one then the other battery and see if they seem to drain equally. More experimenting . So here's a look at it all in the bag...View attachment l_10008635a7e64d60825e457698e506c4.jpgHere's what my bike looks like with 25 Amp Hours of LiFePo4...View attachment l_8c2ca93ee3d64d21989dff0525d60d33.jpg

 

[scoot]

That looks awesome

Sounds like you and I are living in parallel universes :lol: with all the conector flexibility and CA measurements on various packs. We'll catch up with the big boys someday.