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Yea Olde Mutant Trek Bicycle

lawsonuw

1 kW
Joined
Oct 29, 2007
Messages
397
Location
Wisconson USA
Yep, this is my bicycle. And here I'll show what I'm doing to this poor soul.

First, What I started with
P1100324 (Medium).JPG

And now what it looks like with a new battery/brains box + recycled NiCd's + and old BD36
P1100671 (Medium).JPG

P1100672 (Medium).JPG

P1100674 (Medium).JPG

At this point the bike works, and I've used it for a few rides. The duct tape and cut up zip-lock bag provide basic rain sealing for now. I'll be painting the battery box and properly sealing it once I get a few more switches and a power socket for my headlight installed. Oh yea, 33.6v 7.6Ah battery pack, should give me ~20 mile range while averaging 12-14 mph. (I'm a slow-poke biker, we'll see how long that lasts :D )

Future plans:
finish up the battery box
better head light (so I can blind the car's for a change)
Up my gearing so I can pedal with the motor
make the motor drive the bottom bracket

Marty

P.S. I'll get pics inside the battery box next time I pull it apart.
 
I like it.
 
Those double-legged kickstands are great! It holds a bike upright, so it don't tip over with heavy battery packs.

I like the picture-frame construction of the battery pack; very strong, and probably lightweight also. I'd love to see the inside of it.

That's an agressive list of features to add. I'm interested in how you increase the pedal gearing.
 
Just finished a few upgrades.

First up, a used road double chainring from the LBS used parts bin. Bumps my biggest chain ring from 48 tooth to 52 tooth.P1100675 (Small).JPG

Next up, a shot of the inside of my battery/brains box. Since this shot I've added a key switch, and re-done some of the wiring of the red positive power buss. The Watt meter now turns on with the main switch, and the key needs to be turned on to drive. I've also got two open power taps for adding lights or a 12v DC-DC converter in the future. (one on the key switch, one before it) You can see the 4PDT switch I use to parallel the four battery packs when I run, then separately connect them to the integrated trickle charger for charging. Also, not shown is the adhesive backed felt added to the battery compartments so that they don't shift whenever I hit a bump.
P1100676 (Medium).JPG


Marty
 
A thing of beauty, indeed.


Plywood + screws + glue = brickshithouse :mrgreen:
 
Where can i get those double leg kickstand? I found the ESGE one on amazon and they're like 49 bucks. A bit high.
 
TD: no glue...YET, that comes after a coat of black paint, which will only happen when the bugs are worked out.

Ngocthach1130: I vaguely remember mine was $43 from the LBS. I then trimmed the legs to fit how I wanted. I think I found them at $41 and up online, so $49 is not far off. From what I can tell the double kick-stand is a tandem bicycle part. (i.e. lower volume than most bike parts, with the associated higher cost) Anywho, the double legged center stand is great! It's 'rock' steady on any paved surface, and quit a bit better on softer surfaces than my old kick-stand.

Speaking of bugs, I did a 13mile ride this weekend 'cause it was nicer out. (sun and 40F) The battery gave out at around mile 8 and 3.5Ah. After that it sill provided some power, but was clearly dying. (pack voltages went as low as 18v) Me thinks my NiCd's didn't all survive the two years of neglect since they were last used. Time to pull the sub-packs out one at a time and start cycling the cells one by one.

Marty
 
I've tested 10 cells on one of my sub-packs and already found a cell that only holds ~680mAh. If I've got a cell like that in the rest of my sub-packs that would certainly explain the whole pack dumping early. (cells list 1900mAh capacity, ~2.5years old)

My plan right now is to pull all the batteries out and test them. (including some other random sub-c packs I've got) Then reassemble matched sub-packs using two 14-cell [urlhttp://www.modelelectronicscorp.com/browse_product.php?pid=30]Power Tubes[/url] with a fuse holder in the middle. While this is happening I'll revert the bike to pedal only. Once I've assembled at least 3.0Ah of tested cells I'll the rearrange my battery box, and re-install everything else.

Marty
 
Battery testing is progressing slowly. I've got 28 cells tested right now. Most of the cells are testing out at ~1400mAh. I think I'll be rolling my own powertube style battery packs. McMaster has some thin wall tubing with a 7/8th inch Internal diameter, this should be a good fit for a nekid sub-C cell.

Also, I'm planning on switching back to drop handle bars. The old set of steel drops shown in my first picture have a 7/8th inch outer diameter. Standard throttles will fit this, so I'm thinking of adding a full twist throttle to the strait section of the right drop. I'll also switch out my handlebar stem for one thats one to two inches longer so I can put the handlebars at the height I like. (even with my seat tipped forward, low handlebars bust my nuts) (Pics of these bars to follow)

Marty
 
yet more spamming of the forum :lol:

Pic of my plan to restore drop handlebars to my e-bike. This is the same set of handle bars my bike initially had. Also need to find a handlebar stem that's about 1-2 inches taller to get the bars safely up to where I liked them.
 

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Right, anybody know the pin-out of a Crystlyte twist throttle? I got a triangle battery from e-bikes.ca installed in this beast with a slightly modified full twist throttle from them on the drop bars. Now to get it wired in...

Done a couple test rides with the old throttle, it's nice and stable with the battery up front in the triangle. Steering is HEAVY though, a lot more responsive to steering with the hips though.

Anywho, HELP!
Marty
 
Ok, got it working last night. Did a test ride today. Still steers like the titanic. I DO like the new throttle position. And I need to get a left handed full-twist throttle for safety reasons. On to the Pictures. Oh yea, the seat and handlebars need adjusting. Since I've been riding mostly my Linear 'bent the position feels funny.

 
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