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need one of these for controller

diver

1 kW
Joined
Dec 3, 2007
Messages
363
Location
Sand hills S.C.
I need one of these small items next to the fet. not sure what its called. see the red line on the yellow wire output fets. I got the new fets in and noticed that the one in the picture fell out when i was replacing the fets, and i cant find it.
thanks again
 
It's a resistor. Not sure how many Ohms ... do you still have it?
 
kbarrett said:
It's a resistor. Not sure how many Ohms ... do you still have it?

Correction, the part the arrow points to is a capacitor. (notice the C16 label just above it, and the brown color. resistors are generally blue/black with numbers) The value may or may not be critical. Since I assume the controller is dead now, it likely wouldn't hurt to try replacing it with a small ceramic capacitor.

Marty
 
lawsonuw said:
Correction, the part the arrow points to is a capacitor. (notice the C16 label just above it, and the brown color. resistors are generally blue/black with numbers)

Thanx.
 
Yea, you could get a cap at Rat Shack .... prob is guessing the value.

I just trolled through the C'lyte version 2 controller thread, and couldn't find a diagram that had a value for the "C16" capacitor.

Maybe posting the question there would help?
 
I don't know what the value of that one is. I have a "donor board" on the way, but won't arrive anytime soon.

It would be hard to measure one in circuit, and even then you'd need a capacitance meter.

My guess is the value is not critical, other than the voltage rating should be higher than the battery voltage just to be safe. Wild ass guess: .01uf.

You could get a leaded ceramic disk and bend the leads so they will fit on the lands and solder it in.
 
fechter said:
I don't know what the value of that one is. I have a "donor board" on the way, but won't arrive anytime soon.

It would be hard to measure one in circuit, and even then you'd need a capacitance meter.

My guess is the value is not critical, other than the voltage rating should be higher than the battery voltage just to be safe. Wild ass guess: .01uf.

You could get a leaded ceramic disk and bend the leads so they will fit on the lands and solder it in.
thanks so much
 
would these work.
http://cgi.ebay.com/0-01uf-10000pf-100V-10-Poly-Film-Capacitors-100pcs_W0QQitemZ300221097396QQihZ020QQcategoryZ4662QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
 
I usually tear them out of old dead computers or TVs or something.

If you have to buy some online, you might as well get surface mount ones that are the exact right size.

Those look like they'd work electrically. They look pretty big physically. If you install something like that, or almost any leaded one, you should try to lay it down flat on the circuit board and glue it down so it can't vibrate and break off later.
 
no go on the controller, i hooked it up to the hub and motor just jumped a second. opened up the controller and three blinking light. I hooked up the good controller and motor did the same thing. oped it up and just one blinking light. I did the hall sensor test and found two hall sensors bad.

now i have have a controller with new fets that burns up hall sensors..lol anyone want to take a stab at repairing this or is it junk. No more controller repairs with me doing it.lol. I think i can handle the hall sensors ok , that is pretty straight forward for me anyways lol
 
Sucks.

Test your hall sensors with a 9v battery and a meter before you go tearing the motor apart to make sure they are really bad (in case the controller is lying).
 
I did check them as per your way under repairing an x hub.. the only one that showed voltage was the middle one or green one. the other two showed no voltage at all . just milly volts . Motor is apart already lol. I just ordered a 72 volt pedal first controller and cycle annalist from zev at ca. I just hope i cant screw that up. lol Since i had my mini stroke a couple years back, i just ain't sharp . I use to be able to do it all myself and now i just get to confused anymore.lol
 
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