$14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

https://translate.google.com/translate?depth=1&hl=en&ie=UTF8&prev=_t&rurl=translate.google.com.au&sl=zh-CN&tl=en&u=http://detail.1688.com/pic/521358219422.html

All these state "Semi-Finished Board" so they are populated without FETS I guess.
1CNY or Y as I put it = $0.15USD = $0.20CDN
15.jpg
18.jpg
18pipe.jpg
24.jpg
View attachment 2
36.jpg
 
whatever said:
sunwin also sells via aliexpress
This might be sunwin on aliexpress
Store: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/801899?spm=2114.01010208.3.13.TwKBFL
Controller: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/801899/search?origin=n&categoryId=100006839
eBay: http://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_ssn=hksunwin&_armrs=1&_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=controller&_sop=15


SamD any news?
 
20160205_225909_zpsganweuk9.jpg


20160205_230503_zpsttwuzwqv.jpg


20160205_230534_zpsfnmtvo3u.jpg
 
Its interesting that the boards can be obtained so cheap, but I think it's probably better value to buy the whole controller and modify it. Means you get something working on day one that can be upgraded rather than have to build it all from scratch. They are so cheap anyway.... 8)
 
I agree, plus you can always plop out the stock fets for upgraded fets for more voltage.
I like their 18fet sinewave controller, I'd love to have that one. Heck even 24fets.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I just won my first ebay auction ever, I have about 30 buys on my ebay account.
$15.99 + $10 s/h for a 60V 800W Sunwin controller. Which was the starting bid.
I put my highest $18.99 but no one else bid on it.
 
Just back from my first test run with one of the 72 volt 1000 watt rated controllers from sunwin.
It might be just a little bit under rated. :roll:
With the low speed jumper in place the bike tops out at 20 mph
and wants to lift the front wheel a bit on initial take off.
Switch over to high speed and get ready.
Just over 21mph some sort of boost kicks in and the bike surges ahead pulling even harder.
Topping off the battery now, then it is off for a run past the radar traffic speed sign for a top speed number.
Might remember to look at the ca too.
Awesome stuff. Later.

Oh ya this is driving zipp mans 5 turn mxus 3kw motor powered by 5 amp hours of 18s turnigy 20c cells.

34 mph on the radar speed sign. 80 amp max draw on the ca.
This controller adds 5 mph to this bike.
Same battery, same motor. 5 mph more.
Compared to a 12 fet e crazyman 72 volt 1500 watt controller.
 
72V 1000W model, how many fets are on the inside?
If you could take some pictures, be nice for use to compare your 72V 1000W innards to what others have. I just bought the cheapest one 60V 800W, so I am betting its exactly the same as yours. All I really need now is a microwave transformer and 100 18650 3.5Ah cells with holders and some large heat shrink. I am pretty stoked, I havent ridden in a long time. Well ever since my 4 LiPo's caught on fire on a highly discharged pack. I ended up chucking $400-$500 worth of LiPo's. Its been half a year I think by now.

I think the increase in speed that you feel is just the motor & controller at its sweet spot. Might be good to take a look at Grins motor simulator it might tell you a ton of info, especially at the 21mph mark. Is your throttle wide open?
What are these low speed and high speed jumpers you are talking about, are they on the PCB board, or the case?
 
I would think the 60 volt controller will have different fets and caps compared to the 100 volt stuff in the 72 volt units.
The speed jumper is one of the wire sets coming out of the controller.
There are more options to learn about with these boards.

This one has a touch of throttle lag that I do not care for.

When I connected the self learn cable the bike took off on it`s own till it tipped over and started spinning in a circle leaving a black arc on the carpet. :pancake:

Here is a partial pic of the board with the hall and throttle wires removed.
P1010803.jpg

There are a handful of other connectors that come with this controller

Speed hi or low 3 wires Yellow to lo pad
Dark blue to hi pad
Black to ground

Phase cable 2 wires Red to P+ on board
Black to ground

Anti theft cable 3 wires Red to vcc pad
Blue to FD- pad
Green to Yellow phase wire pad

Lock cable 1 wire Red to vcc pad on / off switch

Self study 2 wires both off white one to pad xx the other to ground

Cruise 2 wires both Grey one to pad xh the other to ground

E ABS 2 Dark Blue wires one to ebs pad the other to ground
There is also an EBS jumper pad that might need to be shorted to activate ebs?

Brake low cable 2 wires brown to pad BL
black to ground

Brake hi cable 1 wire Yellow to pad BH

A Green wire with a bullet connector goes to pad SD1
 
from memory you connect self learn wires, if motor runs correct direction, turn off power then disconnect the self learn wires.
If it runs backwards swap one of the phase or hall wire combos. Something along those lines.
 
heres instructions from one chinese supplier
Turn Power On,If motor spins slowly,disconnect the self-learn line,Turn the throttle
and the motor will speed up accordingly,Return throttle to zero.
Calibration procedure complete.If Motor spins in reverse.disconnect
the self-learn line once and reconnect it.The motor will change
direction.Disconnect the self-learn line turn the throttle,and the motor
will speed up accordingly.Return throttle to zero.Calibration procedure complete.
 
a better explanation on self learn from a website

Basically, the controller recognizes that this pin is connected when you first power on.
It attempts to run the motor sensorlessly and captures what the Hall sensor waveform
looks like, saves it to memory, and then when throttle is commanded,
it will power the phases according to what state the motor
is in and what it ‘saw’.
You can indicate that the motor is being learned in the wrong direction
(by unplugging and reconnecting the self-learn wire once) and it will reverse
the direction and record the states again, saving that and associating that
direction with “forward”.
 
Thanks Whatever :D

Have we established yet which models have which components? I want to buy one but there is no point buying the more expensive versions if they have the same components as the cheaper ones.

I was going to go for the 60V 1000W option as I'm currently running 14S Lipo but maybe 70V would be better if they have larger fets & caps inside? Future proofing.....
 
I am still waiting on mine, not to sure when it will come. Economy shipping from China, so perhaps a month. At most 2 months. Once I get it I will open it up, snap some good pictures of the PCB.

What am I looking for, the FET voltage rating and the FET PCB traces?
 
I was going to actually buy the 18FET sinewave board itself, but their website does not alloy me.
You can click on BUY all you want but it doesn't take you anywhere. Seems odd doesn't it.
 
I've just bought this one

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391045522309?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Hope shipping doesn't take too long!
 
Unfortunately they won't ship to the UK on ones that you can bid on. They are the ones you can pick up for circa $15 + shipping if no one else bids!
 
Back
Top