72v 1500W 40A Hua Tong CA08 XM06AD_P04.1 controller

[wesnewell]

Well this throws a wrench into things. The only one I'm sure of now is the battery voltage. Are you sure about the one going to M4? I thought that was half of the 60/120 jumper wires. Wherever they go now, it may be more prudent to move them to the proper locations on the board to get ground and +5V out on them. For ground, I actually just used the black wire out out the connector labeled voltage meter in the picture.

 

[jonathanm]

bollocks, you're right. Sorry I'm doing 10 things at once here and not concentrating.

The yellow and white to M4 IS one of the phase wires.

The yellow and white on the "alarm" plug goes to S+ in the top right of the board. will update the other post .

 

[wesnewell]

So now we need to find out what S+ and A3 are. I see a monolithic cap next to S+ that it may be connected to, but I shouldn't be guessing. I Know there's ~5VDC on that lead when there's power on the controller, but that doesn't necessarily mean it's just a 5v source off the 5v bus. Since this is an alarm circuit, I'm guessing that the bat voltage is read, and when it falls below a certain level that S+ gets a signal from A3 for an alarm, but that's just a wag.

 

[PeeHell]

Just bought one of those and was wondering if the ebrake actually do regen or only act as a motor cutoff. Does one of you guys have tried this out ?

 

[wesnewell]

Just bought one of those and was wondering if the ebrake actually do regen or only act as a motor cutoff. Does one of you guys have tried this out ?

I haven't found the energy to do it. Let us know.
Ok, just ran some test on the brake hi line. With battery voltage on the line the throttle doesn't work. Opened it, ran motor up to a decent speed holding wheel off ground, set cruise control so I didn't have to hold throttle, and then closed it again. Cruise was disabled, and wheel spun down normally, so no actual regen braking that I can see. So as delivered, there's no regen or any other kind of braking involved. So if this controller has regen, it needs to be enabled some way. I've yet to open mine up and probably won't till I get the other one I ordered. The fact that it disables CR makes it worthwhile to hook up though. Will do that sometime. BTW, I ran battery voltage (100V) to the brake hi line through a 4.7K 1/8 watt resistor just in case. Hmmm. I'll lower voltage to 19s and see if that makes a difference. Yes, now regen braking works. At 20s it doesn't work, although it should when voltage gets lower in the battery pack. I don't know how much voltage it was putting back because I was using the + lead to the voltmeter to connect to the brake hi line. Bottom line is it works. Now just need to know how to adjust it inside controller for other voltages.

 

[kentlim26]

im using the white wire + red power supply wire , it's a power cut off. i have been running this 48v 2000watts for few weeks. Just now i went for a test to see whether if this really output power, THE answer is yes, it really Regen POWER back to the battery!! Just now i took my battery out, and bring a test volts meter and connect them, the power out can goes up to 40volts, i spin my wheel with my right hands freely. Wow !! im am really surprised when i see my test volts meter number goes up. i think if i will to pedal my legs, i think the volts will go up to 50v.


kentlim

 

[wesnewell]

I was editing my post when you posted. See my edited post.

 

[iovaykind]

So essentially the brake line (white) combined with the regular red power supply will generate a certain voltage when the wheels are spinning? I was still trying to figure out how to the regen works (and also why a torque arm is needed more when you use it), but I guess now it makes sense. So there IS regen enabled, though you may need to modify the voltage at which it works, is that correct? Wes did you find out what voltage it puts out stock on the 72v controller?

 

[bzhwindtalker]

I got one too for my winch and got it to work thank to your reaserch guis-THANK YOU!
33$ well spent

 

[iovaykind]

You are very welcome! I'm about to pick up a second one at $33 shipped.. such great prices, it'd be smart to have a spare. Has anyone had theirs break and need a replacement already? I wonder about the reliability of these controllers.

edit:
aliexpress has it for $27 shipped http://www.aliexpress.com/product-fm/477597776-72V-1500W-Brushless-Speed-Controller-for-Electric-Bikes-OT100-wholesalers.html

I bought from them for $34.77 and got it yesterday so they're legit.

 

[PeeHell]

To make things clear for the regen, does it works out of the box with the right voltage (~72v ) or we need to do a specific connection to make it work ?

 

[wesnewell]

To make things clear for the regen, does it works out of the box with the right voltage (~72v ) or we need to do a specific connection to make it work ?

The circuit works out of the box with the proper voltage. In wiring up the ebrakes I ran into a problem that took me more time than I want to admit to find, so I haven't actually done much more testing yet. Need to replace one connector and then will report back. I need to make sure it actually regenerates electricity rather than just load the motor for a brake. Should have an answer within a few hours.

 

[jonathanm]

I can't really help with this until I get my extra lipo and wiring etc. Thought I'd have it by now I have the controller open here though if anyone wants me to trace anything out I can do it after work late tonight. I guess we're looking for this controllers equivalent of R12? BTW Wes, do you think the 500w motor can handle this controller continuously without phase wire upgrades?

 

[wesnewell]

Out of the box, ebrakes are just that, no regen. They do disengage cruise control, and have good stopping power, but battery voltage actually drops when you use them (74V charge on 19s lipo). This doesn't make a lot of sense to me, but that's what happens. It's possible there's something inside that can be set that would fix this, but I'm done with it for now. If someone finds the answer, let me know.

 

[PeeHell]

So from what I understand the regen energy doesn't get back to the battery and must generates heat inside the hub motor, wich is not good. It the leaves us with only a cruise control disengagement function. Can't the cruise control just be triggered off by the switch between its wire ?

 

[wesnewell]

So from what I understand the regen energy doesn't get back to the battery and must generates heat inside the hub motor, wich is not good. It the leaves us with only a cruise control disengagement function. Can't the cruise control just be triggered off by the switch between its wire ?

Yes, you can disengage cruise by either tapping the throttle or pushing the set button again. As for regen I'm not saying it doesn't work, just that it's not producing the current I'm looking for. It's very possible it will regen with set up properly inside. It just doesn't seem to do it out of the box running a 74V battery pack.. All motors are generators and visa versa. The controller just has to be able to redirect the current with the proper voltage. It may be something as simple as finding the correct jumpers on the controller to get it to the proper voltage. Those are the EBS pads on Infinion controllers. I don't know about this one as I've never had it open yet.

 

[iovaykind]

Hey wes I think im in the same boat as you. Hooked everything up and it works (amazing for the first time to say the least, glad it was on a stand and I wasn't sitting on it) but cuts out at half throttle or more. I have a GM motor too, to reiterate you switched the green and yellow hall AND phase wires and then it worked fine?

P.S. torque is crazy even with the miswiring! Definitely need precharge resistors, the spark plugging it in was HUGE. What resistor rating are you guys using? Thanks for your help or more for being the guinea pig haha

 

[kentlim26]

Hi!!
The Regen is build inside. How to test your controller Out put power ? it is easy use a volt meter from the controller OUTput red and black direct to the volt meter. My test is that, Either if you have activite the Switch EBrake or not, when you have spin the wheel freely unload, the volt meter will come out volts. i think the regen cannot be off.

i think the free wheel spin on a 72v, the unload speed is more then 80km/h. my unload speed for 60v hua tong, i got 76km/h.

 

[iovaykind]

^Does it also have the same voltage coming out of the input black and red wires? That's what's actually connected to the batteries, so if you spin the wheel by hand, these two wires should also have a voltage coming out of them.

I get about 12v spinning the wheel by hand.. I'm sure at the right speed I would be able to get it up to 72v to charge the battery. Is it speed that determines the voltage? Won't that overcharge the battery if spun too fast? Or is there something I'm missing about this regen.

 

[kentlim26]

to disappear the mighty sparks, is easy. this will work for every controller to have normal BIG sparks. Some controller like cyclone has this problem too. adding a 2way switches, one "ON" the 1st switch..and 1- 2 sec you can switch number2. yes it is troublesome, but this works to avoid the mightly sparks. maybe there are better ways to do. im used to it switch 1 and 2 later, i am doing this for a couple of years. This will be good for the controller also. The higher volts , the spark is stronger!

what really interesting me, the controller can out put the current by spinning the wheel. when i spin very fast, i can get 40v, not bad right?? I always thought Regen is for very expensive controller. The price for a Regen COST MORE,, if you see vpower controller they put REgen controller price is higher compare to standard one. So the kelly web page,, regen controller will cost alot more to buy. biox kit, their controller have a Regen too! it is very unlikely to over charge the battery. to what i have read in some threads.

 

[iovaykind]

If I use something like this, won't that get rid of the spark? Is there anything bad about putting ~80v straight into the controller?

Wes.. the page is down, guess the ownership change made some people jump the boat. Guess I'll just swap the yellow and green hall and phase wires and see if it makes the difference. I wasn't completely sure if I had the same problem as you though, did you motor cut out also when you got past halfway on the throttle?

 

[NeilP]

using thst switch wont get rid of the spark, no
It will just hide it inside the switch and eventually burn the switch contacts
You will still need to put a resistor and second switch across the terminals of that one
Flick first switch, wait a second for current to flow through the resistor and charge the controller capacitors, then switch the main one

 

[wesnewell]

I'm using 3 10W 510ohm resistors in parallel, which comes to about 30W 170ohm. I just cut the power line from the battery to controller and put in another bullet connector, but wired the resistors across the connector. When I plug in the battery I make sure that extra connector is open, allowing pre-charge across the resistors. Then connect the main connector. Simple cheap solution, although not elegant.

 

[NeilP]

pretty much what I do too
I used to have a big contactor as above, but now just have a resistor and connector across my fuse
So before I plug in the battery I first remove the fuse, plug in battery and then put fuse back

The time if takes betweenmplugging in battery and trying to find where I put the fuse, picking it up andreplacing it is enough to orecharge the caps

I used to have a contactor as linked above and it was going to be sticking out of the battery box as final saftey cut out. but decide it was too bulky

 

[jonathanm]

Yes, I was thinking about putting a contactor on but I think the best thing is just a precharge resistor and a crude battery disconnect mounted under seat in case anything goes wrong and I get stuck WOT.