Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

Allex said:
Or you buy a qs motor for half the price directly from from the quanshun factory where cromotor comes from. Check the sales section in this forum.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=65972
Thanks for the tip Allex, I've sent you a PM so as to not go off topic on the Adaptto thread,
 
My controller died in autodetect.. :cry: Flashed it to RC9e and everything went fine to the point at the autodetect when it starts to run in high rpm. Wheel just jammed and controller went black. When I try to connect it just pops my C25 braker.. What did happen?
 
I got the crown last year from a guy who was going to do a build and never got around to it. At the time it looked like a good deal, getting 80% of the cromotor performance for 1/2 the price.

Now I will lace a Cromotor into a moped rim, but it still sucks to get a build 98% done... Only to find out it is not compatible.

Allex said:
Can you tell me why people buy crowns when you have cromotors/quanshun for same or less money with better performance?
 
zlagger said:
I got the crown last year from a guy who was going to do a build and never got around to it. At the time it looked like a good deal, getting 80% of the cromotor performance for 1/2 the price.

Now I will lace a Cromotor into a moped rim, but it still sucks to get a build 98% done... Only to find out it is not compatible.

Allex said:
Can you tell me why people buy crowns when you have cromotors/quanshun for same or less money with better performance?

Is your Crown a TC80 or TC100 I have a TC80 hooked up to the controller on my test bench and it seems fine, the auto detect seemed to work well, I'm not near it at the moment but from memory it was 300° for corse and 6° for fine, regen seems to work and with ovs set to 3 I can get 130kph, my raptor frame will be at least another 4 weeks away so it will be a while before I can test it on the road.
 
Adaptto E-Drives Lab said:
The problem lies in magnetic flow. For now we don't have exact values of that but it's obvious that this motor is not a good choice for sine-wave operation.
There's probably a more polite way to put this but I'll go with the first thought that came to my mind - that's a load of crap!
I have run crystalyte TC and H40 motors flawlessly on sinewave controllers. I dumped 12kw into a sealed motor for multiple laps around a race track and the windings looked like new afterwards. When I had an unrelated issue with the axle I removed the TC and swapped it straight over for a H40 and was soon back on the track with the new motor again performing flawlessly - without even looking at the controller settings.
Another day on the same bike and riding more sensibly I managed an economy of 15 whr/km over a 60km ride. This was without even a chain on, so absolutely zero pedaling, on a 50kg bike, with fat tyres.
Yes, with the wrong hall angle values entered the motor will run sluggishly, inefficiently and get very hot - but why should the adaptto fail to properly detect this over any other motor?

My point is I have extensive first hand experience that these motors can be both economical and very powerful when driven with sinewave controllers, without touching the settings to optimize it one way or the other.
So to say this motor is not a good choice for sine wave operation is ridiculous. I'm surprised than a bunch of guys who are clever enough to come up with this nice bit of gear would suggest such a thing...
If there's a problem with your firmware then just say that and address it. But don't blame a whole species of both motors and controllers. That's the sort of crap semi-english speaking Chinese sales reps on Alibaba pull when they can't deliver what you're asking for :p
 
anttipaa said:
My controller died in autodetect.. :cry: Flashed it to RC9e and everything went fine to the point at the autodetect when it starts to run in high rpm. Wheel just jammed and controller went black. When I try to connect it just pops my C25 braker.. What did happen?

same happened with my controller after i flashed to RC9e, but fortunately nothing blow (at least i think so). reset before and after flashing was done like suggested!
this not only happened one time (i always promptly cut te throttle). afer the third or forth time the motor only stutters when it was going into high rpm, i tuned it manually and it worked.
 
My Motor is the TC100.

Autodetect "Worked" on the newest firmware, and the bike is technically usable. BUT, the problem is that autodetect won't find the angles well enough. It will overheat (controller) and dial back power very often. This was during cool winter days in California. I can't imagine how poorly it would run in the heat of summer.

BTW those numbers sound a bit off... (course & fine)

Seven said:
zlagger said:
I got the crown last year from a guy who was going to do a build and never got around to it. At the time it looked like a good deal, getting 80% of the cromotor performance for 1/2 the price.

Now I will lace a Cromotor into a moped rim, but it still sucks to get a build 98% done... Only to find out it is not compatible.

Allex said:
Can you tell me why people buy crowns when you have cromotors/quanshun for same or less money with better performance?

Is your Crown a TC80 or TC100 I have a TC80 hooked up to the controller on my test bench and it seems fine, the auto detect seemed to work well, I'm not near it at the moment but from memory it was 300° for corse and 6° for fine, regen seems to work and with ovs set to 3 I can get 130kph, my raptor frame will be at least another 4 weeks away so it will be a while before I can test it on the road.
 
I wonder if anyone with a Sabvoton controller can tell us the values detected and use those in the Adaptto, zlagger, I'll double check the detected values tonight when I get home,
 
Ah, I must have missed that somehow. So it seems that crudbucket has the Adaptto running the tc80 correctly, perhaps the problem is isolated to the tc100, thanks Allex
 
Seven, Busy weekend... Sorry to get back to you so late.

Those look a lot better than my original numbers. I switched to Square Wave, reran the Autodetect and was able to get similar numbers as these. I don't know if that was just it being a coincidental rerun, or if switching made a difference.

In either case, I will be able to test it in a couple of days when things dry up. (Lots of rain the last few days)
Seven said:
Ok, here are my numbers, how do they look?
 
Here are the numbers I got with the autodetect set to square wave. I will ride to work tomorrow to test.

Angle corr. +0.48deg
Angle corr2. 0.00deg
Ind timing. 270uS
PWR timing. +0.51
PWR time 2. +0.51
Hall Offset. 60deg


Good news! Test ride was successful at these settings. Granted, I wasn't able to run full throttle a lot (small streets / traffic), but I did do 6 miles and things ran much smoother.
 
Yes, end of day was 8 miles on Sinewave.

Ran much better than my previous outing. I feel things could be tuned better still, but it is usable. I was able to apply power for much longer before thermal role back kicked in.

I will try to come up with a tuning method. Changing one setting on a set course and comparing results.

Seven said:
Have you tried switching to sine with these settings?
 
Hello
i have now problems with the temp sensor
i always get 0°C out - it does not matter what kind of sensor i choose at the menue.
I use an PT1000 - i measure the value.
The PT1000 works and is connected to GND.

I also put an "normal" 10k Resistor direct at the plug - but also 0°C again.
Any ideas what that could be ---- i think something inside the controller.....
 
striker54 said:
GreenRoad said:
I also put an "normal" 10k Resistor direct at the plug - but also 0°C again.
Any ideas what that could be ---- i think something inside the controller.....

The 10K resistor have a hardware limitation on the adaptto and only start to show the correct temperature above 30ºC

thanks - shame on me.
i read about this..... but i never used this kind of sensors before... normaly i also get temperature feedbacks with the original sensor with 10°C..

thanks for help - it works now....
 
GreenRoad said:
thanks - shame on me.
i read about this..... but i never used this kind of sensors before... normaly i also get temperature feedbacks with the original sensor with 10°C..

thanks for help - it works now....

on latest firmware it shows 0°C until the motor exceeds 29°C which confuses me because on older fw it always did show 29°C
 
The kty 81 210 works quite well as a motor sensor, its the same sensor that is in the controller.
 
crea2k said:
The kty 81 210 works quite well as a motor sensor, its the same sensor that is in the controller.
i tried these sensors
KTY81 / PT1K / KTY83

It does not really matters what kind of temp sensor you use - its important that you use an sensor.
The position of the sensor and the contact to the coils is more important.

At the adaptto Menu - i think the temperature Line is to oversized - i only whant to know the temperature --- not more.
 
anyone an idea how i can adjust my throttle range...now my throttle engages at 30 percent. But i want the motor to start at 10 procent.
In the cycle analist this was possible but in the adappto i don't find it...
 
lennovich said:
anyone an idea how i can adjust my throttle range...now my throttle engages at 30 percent. But i want the motor to start at 10 procent.
In the cycle analist this was possible but in the adappto i don't find it...


I think you need to try throtle calibration :wink:
 
Artur said:
lennovich said:
anyone an idea how i can adjust my throttle range...now my throttle engages at 30 percent. But i want the motor to start at 10 procent.
In the cycle analist this was possible but in the adappto i don't find it...


I think you need to try throtle calibration :wink:

Yes do the Throttle calibration.
Menue: Callibration
THR limits - that what you needs - to set the throttle voltage level
THR linear - so linear the throttle linearity
THR Prog - Throttle line 0 = linear (To the other numbers exists no documentation - you have to try)
 
Hey guys My charhe coil is finally perfectly working now!! :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

The coil and caps remain cold ( 25-30 Celsius at 1050Watts)

I have built many different coil from various core that i had and finally i decided to order the "E" shape core that the russian site was recommanding ( Jeka on the forum) and i have used 50 strands of insulated 22 gauge copper that i twisted and paralleled together and wound 18 turn.

I have 112uH inductance in serie and 1200uF 100V caps in parallel to the power supply.

This work perfectly and i was said that this setup is good to charge at up to 3 to 4 kW! :twisted:

I am really happy now!!

(Same post on the NYX bike project)

Doc
 

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