Advice on build

[calab]

I saw a 2021 bicycle at the local bicycle store in the size I require (XXL) but its a 29" which I dont know if that's good or not in terms of hub motors. It's not the best spec's but the price is right and its in stock. Tourney rear der, Atlus shifters, hydraulic Tektro 275 oil brakes not what I want I'd prefer cable, probably $100 premium on the bottom line. Has straight 1-1/8 steer tube which I like I guess, I cant ever see myself buying a $250+ fork. Entry level bikes won't have the best fork, its a XCE which is probably lower or on par with the XCT(Lowest) but then theres the XCM(Medium) XCR(higher but still not that great), V2, V3. Battery will go in triangle, and I don't do well with full suspension, I'm really fat at 330lbs.

For the bike mentioned, I am just wondering about the fork, whats 46/42mm offset mean
it says - Fork: SR Suntour XCE 28, coil spring, preload, 46/42 mm offset for 29" wheel, 100 mm QR, 100 mm travel
What does 46/42 mm offset for 29" mean?

When I was in the store, the tires looked wider, I'm not used to 29", I always ride 26'ers.
The Trek website specs say Bontrager XR2 Comp, wire bead, 30 tpi, 29x2.00''
The 2.00" tires is a real turn off seeing that in the specs now, and for the price I could just buy a used bike online classified but non come in XXL, I really do want plus sized tires, 2.50-2.80", and probably closer to 2.50". I've ridden 3.0" and its still fat tire status IMO, not "plus" status though I don't know officially. So what are my options? I figure cobble together something, front hub motor, HPC had a BMC but they have so many hubs, the one I saw was the cheapest, so probably 500W, geared, + my weight = broken gears, over heated so no good. MAC can handle more power, 1500W constantly from what I gather. Add in statorade and probably good to go right?

I've been looking very frequently for a bicycle to buy. Having a 1x7 or 1x8 would be adequate but not enough, but if I'm going to spend money on new, I'd want 3x7/8/9. I'm very tame rider, easy roads and sidewalks all the time, limited and easy single track trails once a week. I ride everyday, retired. I'd like a climbing gear 22 or 24 and a cruising gear 44T, so 3x.

A hub motor in a 29" wheel is a good idea or no, more speed that takes longer to get up to speed depending on the motor kv and will heat up if too many hills or steep stuff. That's why I am again hesitant. Don't really know which way to go, don't require mid drive, so hub it is. Geared or dd, mac would be an option.

26" with 2.50" plus tires is what I am really after, that can fit up to 2.80" I haven't run across any on my searches. Tires are sure available. With the 29" or 27.5" framed bikes with plus tires could just swap in 26" but then frame geometry maybe compromised. Fat bike with relaced wheels to fit rim suitable for tire sizes Im after could be an option too. Lots of bicycle shaped object fat bikes for cheap. My time is up for the computer at the library, wish I could format the post better for clearer idea. But yeah, 100% want 26x2.50 with ability to fit 2.80. Off to google search I go.

 

[LeftieBiker]

Two comments: you probably want to do a mid drive, as a geared hub motor would wear faster and struggle more with your weight than a mid-drive using the transmission. I assume you realize that you can upgrade the tires if you don't like them, so I'd request a test ride with the tires very close to max inflation pressure, and see how they feel. Ok, let's make it three comments: I wasn't sure if I wanted hydraulic brakes either, but my Tektro hydraulics have been great, and I've gotten two years out of the pads. You should probably expect one year if you brake a lot and hard (I don't) but as long as they aren't defective they seem pretty bulletproof. The shop can always change the oil for you after 2 or 3 years - try making them throw that in.

 

[Balmorhea]

Extra sprockets in back don’t do as much for you as you’d think, once there’s motor assist. But they do make things wear out faster, and require more frequent adjustment to keep them working, and they make replacement parts a lot more expensive. 8-speed is the sweet spot these days for durability, fault tolerance, low cost, and ubiquitous availability. 7-speed (cassette, not freewheel) is better in some regards, but with declining availability and less choice of gearing options.

Think of a Tourney derailleur as a place holder. It will work okay for a little while, but it’s basically junk. At your price point, they spent the allowance on hydraulic discs and a squishy fork, and cheaped out on the drive parts. Note that Trek is a marketing and advertising heavy company, and you pay those costs to get nothing more valuable than the name.

It seems to me that you have a meticulous interest in the component details of the bike, without a budget to let you actually be choosy about it. But you haven’t even said how much you can spend, what kind of riding you plan to do, or how much you weigh. Without filling in those blanks, plus your expectations for speed and range, nobody here can offer you meaningful advice.

29” wheels are a better match for a mid drive than for a hub motor. But if you are a heavy and strong rider, just-sorta-okay drivetrain components like the ones on the bike you’re talking about are going to get trashed quickly if you combine a lot of pedal power with a lot of motor power and run it all through the bike’s gears. On the other hand, if you have steep hills or off-road trail riding in mind (as your tire preferences suggest), a hub motor is unlikely to work well for that when combined with a wheel that’s over 30” in outside diameter.

What makes a good pedal bike is different that what makes a good candidate for an e-bike conversion. What makes a fashionable MTB these days is even more different. Your project will benefit from simplicity, ruggedness, and versatility. Those things are easier to find in a mountain bike that was made 25 years ago than it is to find in today’s equivalent.

 

[MadRhino]

You will find this bike fragile and underpowered, for a big guy like you.

I too, would recommend a BB drive for a 29er.
Or, you’d have to build it yourself.

Big guys are best on smaller wheels and heavier rubber. Hard to find ready made on a very large frame. That is in the domain of custom built ebikes. Then it could have a DD hub, and robust to last.

 

[Bobw]

Whereabouts in Alberta are you?

Reading about your requirements, they are very close to my converted mountain bike that is currently up for sale. Check it out here:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=107081

You might have your heart set on building your own, but if not this one is ready to ride now. The price I am asking is way less than it would cost to buy individual components separately for your own build. I weigh 225 and the vintage steel frame works well for me, but I don’t know how the extra poundage would play out.

Let me know if you have any questions.

 

[calab]

Thanks to everyone who has responded.

All I want is 3x8 to keep it simple and cheap, components don't matter as much. I want to be able to use the 24 crank gear to climb when I come across a hill and the 44 crank gear to cruise fast (25mph) when on the flats. When having that urge, 30mph is fine for me once a week on a straight open road for a mile or two. I'd spend all my time in 20-25mph range with minimal hills of any significance and a throttle only setup, with a half ass pedaling attempt about 50% of the time. And a more serious pedaling effort 15-20% of the time. No pedal assist, only strictly throttle only for me.

I don't want to mess with mid drive for the simple reason of noise, looks and I lose a pedal crank gear, not that it matters but what does matter is 24 and 44 gears, matched to 44+11 plus a gear or two in the middle and 24+36.

The terrain I ride doesn't require a mid drive, only a rare few long hills with 15-20% grade that I can speed prior to and pedal with 24 gear while giving it full throttle. The rear freewheel or cassette depending on the hub, 11-36 again because its most common.

I'd prefer a hub motor, and direct drive to keep the simplicity and durability factor. 26" wheel, matched to a proper kv motor using 48V or 52V and 50A cheap controller. QS 205 35H 1500W seems to be good, do you guys think I should go with a 12T or 10T or 8T motor winding?

Madrhino
As a rule of thumb, you say 29" wheels go mid drive not hubs.
Well I decided not to buy the Trek, money should be spent on ebike components and buy a used bicycle to save money. Its hard to find a suitable bike. I have found a few cruiser style fat bikes with 26x4" wheels and I was thinking about replacing them with 26x2.50" tires, MTX 33 rims and hub.

There is plenty of options for wide 26" tires from 2.25-2.80" wide, while not many options available for 24" wide tire. I have not been able to find any bicycles with 26" wheels and wide tires. Fat bicycles with 4" wide tires would fit what I want, and I would buy a decent shock for it instead of rigid fork.

Direct Drive motor laced into a good quality 26" rim like the MTX 33 which will be suitable for the wider tires. MTX33 is listed as disc brake only, doesn't have machines sidewalls for V-brake.

My style of riding is very casual, 25mph is about all I go, and 30mph not so often on the straights for fun. Hills are short, but steep about 150' and 15% having plenty of power to get up with speed, 48/52V and 50A. What kv of motor should I get for a QS 205 35H 1500W.

What kv or wind should I buy for the motor?

Any bicycle brands and models that I can type into search function to buy for 2.50-2.80" tires, doesn't matter if its 29, 27.5 because I'd just install 26" tires and hope the geometry isn't too messed up.

Whats the value purchase of brand name make and model for a suspension fork?

Any other motors you'd suggest to look at for direct drive?

Also, pondering MAC motor for the non drag aspect when unpowered, but don't want to risk breakage and down time. With a 1kwh battery, I think the direct drive should suffice as less moving parts and can take more heat.

 

[E-HP]

Some things to note for your assumptions

Statorade won't work in a geared hub
You won't be using your middle and small chainring if you decide on a direct drive hub (well maybe if your battery dies)
You'll probably receive better advice once you decide on the type of motor you intend to use

 

[MadRhino]

26x2.50" tires, MTX 33 rims and hub.

MTX39, 14 ga quality SS spokes, nipple washers. Well worth it.

For motor winding, it has to be selected according to the speed that you plan to build.