BiGH's Ride!

Which Batteries did you pick?
 
Mark_A_W said:
Which Batteries did you pick?
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I haven't as yet - i'm still working out which is the best pack to go for.

information is dificult to come by for many shops that sell li* packs i'm finding. Either that or they're too busy to answer questions on the packs. Brett is getting packs this week, and I'll be waiting to see pics and more info on his packs. I'm also getting info from other sources :)


i'm just wanting to run the SLA batteries as a temp fix, so i can at least use the bike - sure it will be slower (much slower) but it will still beat using the car :D
 
ok so i popped into autobarn today - they had a sale on 900amp jump start kits. (they have a 12v 17ah SLA battery in each pack) as well as chargers 240v AC adaptor (and 12v cigarette adaptor) for $49.95 AUD each.

This meant i got a 36v 17ah SLA pack with chargers for $150 AUD :) pretty cheap. This should get me a reasonable distance, im hoping with the tyres pumped fully i might be able to get 25klm?!? i could still go and grab one more SLA battery for $50 and run 48v 17ah. Not sure if running a higher voltage would extend my range. If i ran 48v insted of 36v and feathered the throttle more, would this mean i get 25klm range?

(i've got 100psi slicks on;) - so rollling resistance is gonna b very low)

i'm also picture documenting the removal of all parts of the jump start packs.
 
More watt hours will give you longer range, as long as you resist the urge to go at top speed. 48x17 minus losses should go 25km.
 
Thanks Lowell :)

I only want it for a local area pack. I've just read that to recharge the SLA's with the supplied charger it will take AGES... so it won't be a daily commuter, but it will be used to ride to friend's houses / dinner etc :)

i'm going to wait until the controller comes, and test the range on 36v first, i'm thinking its not going to be enough for the commute anyways, so it will be my local battery pack;)
 
http://www.evdeals.com/Batteries.htm
Now i'm particualrly happy - the batteries look similar (identical) to the 17ah batteries - the site is in USD btw :) -

I've got pics of the dissasembly of the packs, but they'll have to wait until tommorrow to go up!
 
here's the packs i'm pulling apart for the cheap SLA batteries.
 

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oh yeah forgot to ask - is the blue thing pictured in the last picture between the large -ve and +ve a capacitor?
 
A capacitor or a polyswitch.

Oo.err..do you reckon I could score/buy one of those 900 amps switches off you? You've got three right?
 
wiring0.jpg


or do i have to individually switch off each battery from being in series with the other?

i'm thinking that i'd need the switches to make the setup like this:
unfortunatly its hard to find high amp switches.
battboxcircuitsmall.jpg


If i don't use them u can have them mark, but at the moment they'll be used :( (yes i have 3)
 
or do i have to individually switch off each battery from being in series with the other?
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So long as the chargers are isolated (either internally or by not having a common ground prong on the wall socket), there's no problem leaving the batteries in series while charging each one individually and simultaneously. That's how I charge my 20s15p lithium pack.
 
xyster said:
or do i have to individually switch off each battery from being in series with the other?
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So long as the chargers are isolated (either internally or by not having a common ground prong on the wall socket), there's no problem leaving the batteries in series while charging each one individually and simultaneously. That's how I charge my 20s15p lithium pack.
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when you say common ground, so if i plugged them into a powerboard (each battery has a seperate powerpack that would be plugged into a powerboard and run from the wall socket)

is that bad or good (i know u run a powerboard and many many double adaptors :p
 
BiGH said:
when you say common ground, so if i plugged them into a powerboard (each battery has a seperate powerpack that would be plugged into a powerboard and run from the wall socket)

is that bad or good (i know u run a powerboard and many many double adaptors :p
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I'll assume a powerboard there is the same as a powerstrip here :D The powerboard can have a ground prong (be three prong), but unless the chargers are electrically isolated on the inside (like Soneils), the charger plugs that go into the powerboard must not have a ground prong.
The powerboard can have a ground prong because, so long as the chargers do not, the chargers won't be connected to that common ground -- hence no short.

All is good so long as all the chargers also don't exceed the wattage rating of the powerboard -- most powerstrips here are rated about 1500 watts -- so exceeding that rating would take about 11, 10-amp 12 volt (~15 peak) SLA chargers.
 
xyster said:
I'll assume a powerboard there is the same as a powerstrip here :D The powerboard can have a ground prong (be three prong), but unless the chargers are electrically isolated on the inside (like Soneils), the charger plugs that go into the powerboard must not have a ground prong.
The powerboard can have a ground prong because, so long as the chargers do not, the chargers won't be connected to that common ground -- hence no short.

All is good so long as all the chargers also don't exceed the wattage rating of the powerboard -- most powerstrips here are rated about 1500 watts -- so exceeding that rating would take about 11, 10-amp 12 volt (~15 peak) SLA chargers.
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Powerstrip and powerboard are the same. :)

I just went to the garrage and checked the power adaptor for battery charger. its only a two pronged one, so the lack of ground - does that mean its ok to be used without switches... sorry i'm a bit clueless when it comes to these chargers. I think after reading the above - what ur saying is as long as there is no ground on the power adaptor from the charger (an electrically isolated ground is an exception to this) that its ok?

is that right?

Thanks again Xyster,
You've already helped so much!
 
BiGH said:
I just went to the garrage and checked the power adaptor for battery charger. its only a two pronged one, so the lack of ground - does that mean its ok to be used without switches... sorry i'm a bit clueless when it comes to these chargers. I think after reading the above - what ur saying is as long as there is no ground on the power adaptor from the charger (an electrically isolated ground is an exception to this) that its ok?

is that right?

Thanks again Xyster,
You've already helped so much!
Click to expand...

Let's try a picture this time... :wink:
 
Lol....Dude, Thats the sort of picture that has a big red cross through were it to be found in a saftey manual!
 
Jozzer said:
Lol....Dude, Thats the sort of picture that has a big red cross through were it to be found in a saftey manual!
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Yah, but I know what I'm doing. I haven't blown up anything with household electricity since I was 10 and tried to recharge a capacitor by sticking its leads directly into the wall outlet -- a mistake I never repeated! :shock: :D
 
BiGH said:
xyster said:
I'll assume a powerboard there is the same as a powerstrip here :D The powerboard can have a ground prong (be three prong), but unless the chargers are electrically isolated on the inside (like Soneils), the charger plugs that go into the powerboard must not have a ground prong.
The powerboard can have a ground prong because, so long as the chargers do not, the chargers won't be connected to that common ground -- hence no short.

All is good so long as all the chargers also don't exceed the wattage rating of the powerboard -- most powerstrips here are rated about 1500 watts -- so exceeding that rating would take about 11, 10-amp 12 volt (~15 peak) SLA chargers.
Click to expand...
Powerstrip and powerboard are the same. :)

I just went to the garrage and checked the power adaptor for battery charger. its only a two pronged one, so the lack of ground - does that mean its ok to be used without switches... sorry i'm a bit clueless when it comes to these chargers. I think after reading the above - what ur saying is as long as there is no ground on the power adaptor from the charger (an electrically isolated ground is an exception to this) that its ok?

is that right?

Thanks again Xyster,
You've already helped so much!
Click to expand...

Sounds like it should be fine.

But if you are concerned, fit the switches (and don't worry about my request, I can find my own if I really need it).

Mark
 
after re-reading this i must have been daft as to how much i didn't understand.

Mark u can have the switches. I'll PM you when i've removed all 3 :)
 
I only want one!

To switch a supplementary 12v pack in and out of circuit.

Not sure if it's suitable (need double pole I think), but at least it can handle the amps!

Thanks!

But if you do need it, no problemo, don't feel obligated.

When our bikes are complete(ish) we should catch up and compare notes. My fork reinforcements are coming along, but I 'd like to ride a rear wheel motor bike.

Mark
 
for sure, I'll bring the vid cam and we can youtube it :)

what part of melb are u in? (i'm in lower plenty near greensborough)


if the switch isn't used, its urs, no obligation - i just believe in minimising the amount that goes to land fill :)
 
I'm in Parkdale, so it's a fair way away, something like 40km I think.
 
controllers were shipped yesterday :) i've charged my 3x SLA batteries.

I'll temporarily wire them up when they arrive so i can go for a ride around :)

only max 1250w on the 35a controller :p should still be a bit of a blast, not that range will be too far with 612wh. ;)
 
I'm pretty happy with the acceleration of my nominal 250w motor (at 41v instead of 36v) - maybe 285w or so.

The freewheel speed is not enough, but the torque below it is fine.

So I have to admit I don't really see the need for 1250w, or 2500w, like some of the bikes here.

I'd like ~450 or 500w I think, just to get more speed.

Even ~285w is enough to turn an 11km/h hill into a 27km/h hill.


So I guess I'll have to have a go of your bike so I can get my mind changed :D
 
Mark_A_W said:
I'm pretty happy with the acceleration of my nominal 250w motor (at 41v instead of 36v) - maybe 285w or so.

The freewheel speed is not enough, but the torque below it is fine.

So I have to admit I don't really see the need for 1250w, or 2500w, like some of the bikes here.

I'd like ~450 or 500w I think, just to get more speed.

Even ~285w is enough to turn an 11km/h hill into a 27km/h hill.


So I guess I'll have to have a go of your bike so I can get my mind changed :D
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cool i'm very excited - the last ebike i rode was a 250w bike from powerped in ringwood running on 36v

so riding a much higher power should be good :D

i think the differnce between riding a 250w bike vs a 1400w bike is just top speed and acceleration. the higher the power, the closer to an electric motorbike you get :)
 
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