BOSS LEVEL CUSTOM SPOT WELDER

in a chat with Aulakiria some time ago he told me that this machine could be incredibly powerful with more fets and maybe higher rated ...but that would make it considerably bigger and expensive. Since he designed it for nickel and wants it to be as small and affordable as possible he does not plan to do it. Besides it could be kind of dangerous. The automatic machines of the battery factories do not have the fingers of the operators that close.

I certainly agree. $80 USD befor reshipping is a very good price for a spot welder of this caliber. This spot welder had the ability of welding copper sheets without tripping the circuit breaker and I feel that this alone justifies the perform benefit compared to a sunnko 709A.

If you watch the factory tour videos of the battery pack factories, you can see that they have pneumatic powered spot welding probes that comes in contact with th battery and nickel sheet at a perfect 90 degree angle and with the same amount of force each Time.

That consistent welding probes angle and force on the battery has to be achieved first before we built a more powerful spot welder as we need ALL the welds to be consistent. Imagine the amount of molten metal splatter you'll get with a more powerful spot welder if you don't place the probes properly. I'm trying to find a pneumatic powered spot welding probes for this purpose on taobao.com and I'll be attempting to ensure 100% consistency in all the welds with this spot welder .

Having said that I really recommend this spot welder as it's so much more capable than the 709 A or the industrial looking 5kW one when used in a home setting with a small circuit breaker
 
make it considerably bigger

Considerably bigger is subjective as a bank of high rated FETs would still be smaller than ur laptop in my opinion, with a small heat sink of course. But we definitely need to have proper spot welding probes that looks like this and it will be a lot bigger because of it.

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Yes. Of course "considerably bigger" is subjetive. It would be still tiny. But let's say... Double sized. It is a big increment. Let's say 50 more usd... it's still cheap but not so much. Right now he told me he is not interested. Nevertheless I guess you can ask him yourselves or try to mod it on your own if you got the knowledge.
 
I'm sure a mod is easy, I'm waiting for my fets to arrive at the moment. Before
 
Hmm, wire.rat, that looks quite similar to some of the 3d printers I have built.... and the idea of repeatable consistent welds does sounds nice. Considering these welders are arduino based in the first place.. and the absurd amount of extra parts I have from my 3d printer builds, I am very tempted to possibly try to build a an automated welder that could press down for an exact amount of time and pressure (and of course consistent power). Could be interesting.. literally have everything i need from framing, motors, linear guides/ballscrews/leadscrews for the movement, and even some board I could use to control it all... would just need to make/get some good welding probes and the electronics for the spot welding. Could be a fun project... and ironically, if done right... would produce a machine likely more capable than your standard entry level industrial spot welder (which are pretty damn expensive). Hell... it would even be easy to make an X & Y axis as well, to actually be able to do rows of spot welds on batteries in a jig. Now that I think about it.. it's actually a relatively easy machine to build, would not be that drastically different from a 3d printer or cnc machine... at least as far as the movements would go.
 
I sendt a order with payment for the full kit through PayPal 2 days ago. Not heard anything back though..
 
Your worries are legit but you are safe. Lee always replies fast and ships even faster.
It is autumn holydays in Korea. He must be busy.
You will get it for sure. Just wait a few days. Did you pay fast option?
 
When I bought mine I got it in just 7 days. It is incredibly fast. Of course in my case I was Lucky. He had one in stock, was in the Middle of the week so he shipped next day, it was dispatched fast at customs and I was at home when the courier delivered it.
In your case seems he is away, we are at weekend and I don't know how long his holydays are.
I guess in the worst case scenario you will get it in 15 days. No more than that.
 
For me I send him a couple of questions about the shipping for 2 such welders before payment, so maybe thats why i got it so fast. Have you tried emailing him?
 
Well, I just realized something that I can't believe I didn't realize earlier. I think it's because I was originally thinking about making a 14s pack, instead of a 20s. My plan being to use Sanyo 20700A 30A 3100mAh cells to create a SMALL battery pack that can put out ~3000 watts. While I figure I'll have to see how it holds up, but I technically should be able to run a 20s2p pack with these cells and be able to make the power. I'm getting these cells from Bosch 18v 6.3ah packs.... which have copper plates connecting them, and are encased in plastic that's supposed to be some special kind that promotes cooling. I think it's because I origin ally was expecting to be running a 52v pack, with 3-4 cells in parallel, and would at the very least need to rearrange thing... but with a 72v 20s pack, I'm technically all set as is. The 20s2p pack is essentially just 4 of these Bosch packs in series. I'm still going to get one of these welders.... but looks like I could potentially not need one, without doing much damage soldering anything to these batteries directly.

Now I need to figure out how exactly I want to arrange/connect these. I suppose one major decision is whether or not to use a BMS. Originally I was 99% sure I was gonna need to get a 20s BMS that could handle 50 or more amps. While I still need to do more research, I've been seeing quite a few videos/posts about people recommending NOT to. I've seen people splitting their pack into 2 cells they run in series, and then making use out of those LIPO balance chargers/dischargers. Given many of them were running lower volts than 72, but there are a few 10s LIPO chargers available that could work for charging/balancing... some of them recommending to lower the max charge volts down from 4.2 to 4, to extend battery life. I'll be doing more research on what makes sense here... my original plan was to get a pretty serious high amp 20s smart BMS, where I could adjust output current, etc. via bluetooth and a phone app (or a Cycle Analyst, which was another addon I am definitely planning on looking into). On top of the cycle analyst, I was also very much considering getting a Cycle Satiator charger... while $300 isn't exactly cheap for a charger, it seems like a worth it purchase, considering it has the potential to work on such a huge range of batteries, with lots of nice options to help keep your batteries healthy/strong. But if going without a BMS is actually a good option, I already need to buy a LIPO charger for the batteries that I'm getting for this welder, I could kill two birds with one stone (but that's just a bonus, def not making a decision based on that... I am making it on what is actually a better choice when it comes to keeping the batteries healthy).

Another option could be to actually just run the 4 packs as separate batteries in series. One benefit here is, there is a chance I could simply just utilize the BMS that is already on the batteries from Bosch (tho def don't know if this is a good idea or not... would definitely be the easiest). I'm also not sure how well running 4 in series would work out with the power I'll be needing. I suppose XT90 connectors and some thick 10 gauge or so wire should be able handle it... but not sure about the current battery connections handling 4 times their current load. Given it is some nice copper, and I could possibly add some more connections to help with the additional load.... not to mention, seems like it may be a good idea to do as little damage as possible to what's already there.

Sadly I do have one small issue already, tho I'm hoping this welder will solve it. I have removed the plastic covers from 2 Bosch battery packs so far, and sadly, one of them unearthed the fact that one of the batteries welds did not hold, and the copper is definitely not making a good connection with that battery. So looks like I'll be welding copper in at least 1 spot with this thing, hopefully.

Anyway... time for some more research... and any/all advice is more than welcome... whether or not it's fact or opinion, both can help.
 
To increase, double or even triple the lifespan of the cells charging to 4v and discharging to 3.3 is the best of the ideas.
You can easily limit the voltage output with a saciator. I am not sure what you mean when you say you will not need bms.
Do those small packs of bosch have bms? Are those cells self balancing like the sony konions? Or you just mean to balance them with a 10s rc charger?
Bms are expensive and well known as "battery killers" when you use a cheap one. The best bms is yourself and Balancing with an rc charger sounds very well to me. I do it often with some of my packs.
If you are going bms-less you will need to know all the time the voltage left of your pack. A cycle analyst will tell you that so you can keep under control the discharge.
If you need to solder any wire to those packs just do it between the cells, never on the contacts. As long as you do it quick they will not suffer that much. Some people is soldering on the contacts with a 100w solder. They claim to do minimum damage to the cells when doing it properly (under 1 second) that requires some practice though.
 
Well, I definitely never had plans on getting a cheap BMS.... was planning on finding more or less the best possible one I could (assuming its not gonna be $300+... but if the "best" costs $150, or something like that, that's fine.. def not looking for some $30 one). If I was going to go without a BMS, not only would I constantly track the overall voltage of the pack.. but I'd also set up a device that would let me know the voltage of each group of 2 batteries so I could keep track of the balance (and of course would need those connections to connect the balance cable to a 10s charger... if I go that route).

As for what is currently on the battery packs, I think it's some form of a BMS, tho nothing too fancy, prob doesn't do much more than limit max/min voltage... tho it is Bosch, and German's are known for making quality products.

I'm going to do some more research and likely just try to find a really high end BMS, but haven't decided one way or another yet. Tho, if I go the route of splitting the battery into 2 x 10s2p batteries, and using a 10s lipo balancing charger... and simply install a voltage tracker for the individual cells... I could easily keep the voltage between 4.0v and 3.3v, and well balanced (ie. keeping them within 0.10v of each other). Which would not only be healthy for the batteries and make them last longer, but would also be on the cheaper end of the spectrum.

BUT, I'm also assuming if I do find a high end BMS that does it's job right, and did get a Cycle Satiator... not only should it be just as healthy as the above message... it would be easier to manage... ie. wouldn't have to track the individual cell's voltages, just the overall (assuming the BMS is doing it's job), and with the satiator, would just need to setup a charging profile and use it each time. Not to mention, instead of having to charge 2 10s2p battery packs separately, would just be able to charge it at once, with a single plug. Plus the satiator would be usable on more than just this battery.... tho I suppose a 10s balancing charger would also be used on other batteries, assuming I set them up the same way.

As far as I can tell right now... both methods should theoretically be about equal in respects to keeping the batteries healthy. Just one would be cheaper, but require more work (need to keep an I on the balance and voltage more, etc)... the other would be more expensive, but easier BUT while it's easier, I'd still have to essentially be blindly depending on the fact the the BMS is truly doing it's job right... tho I would hope a quality BMS would do so.

I'm gonna work on figuring out how to organize these batteries for the time being... pretty awesome that I can actually leave them almost as is considering they are already 5s2p and I need a 20s4p... definitely makes things MUCH easier, couldn't have planned it better. I also realized, if I needed more distance, I could easily just make a second identical pack and run them parallel.
 
I tested nickel 0.5 today. It was horrible lol. The mechanical properties are very tough. It is really difficult to cut and the strips are so bent that is even more difficult to flatten. Since I left some Gaps the holes I did are huge.
I managed to do some nice welds in a tiny strip but the obvious verdict is NOT WORTH IT.
It is even more difficult than 0.1 copper with 0 benefits.
Mission failed.
 
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these welds are actually quite good but i don't feel like hammering every square mm of it to flatten it properly. 0.5 discarded for good.

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[youtube]BWIkAl1jVQM[/youtube]
as seen on this video the welds are pretty decent but it is very difficult to bend even with nippers. The shape is not flat at all. Just terrible lol.
 
My spot welder should be arriving tomorrow :) (Would have had it a week sooner, but Paypal didn't let my first charge go through, and of course found that out right after having my bank shut down my current card and send me a new one.... totally unrelated, but added about a week to my order time).

Sadly, while I did manage to order and receive a suitable LIPO battery for this, I completely spaced out while planning to order a charger (debating between a number of models, had a good one that I was literally seconds away from ordering, then it was brought to my attention that I may be needing a 10s charger in the near future, and the one I was originally looking at maxed out at 8s). Hopefully I'll have the charger within the next few days... I actually have pretty much everything else I need for this ebike build (just got the Phil Wood specific Bottom Bracket tool today, so finally got my bike ready to attach the motor).

On a side note, whoever came up with using 'C' ratings on the Lipo batteries as one of their primary stats, is a total asshole. Took me a minute to realize this is a value based on the batteries' maH of storage. Seems like a really easy way to confuse a buyer, to say the least... glad I realized what it meant before I ordered, but was very close to ordering the wrong battery, never assuming that the C was based off of how man amp hours the battery had.

One other thing I temporarily forgot about... I originally wanted to install a small display on my battery pack to show the current voltage... just need to find a small one that will do the trick (presumably something this simple would also be pretty cheap). I would also install cell loggers to track the individual voltage of each parallel group.. but all I see are 1-8s, and with my pack essentially being 4 5s packs in series, I really don't want to have to add 4 cell loggers for a single battery (especially on that is so small, where I'll likely have at least a second for use on longer rides)
 
I install small voltmeters too on my skateboard builds and small multipurpose batteries. They are very cheap and handy.
I have a cycle analyst so I do not do it for my ebike packs.
The Banks are Sometimes a paín in the ass with paypal. I recall I had to make some calls to authorize it when I started using that method.
Tell us your experience when your welder arrives ;)
 
Just realized I should be able to power a small voltage display on the battery pack off of a fraction of the series of cells (ie. instead of using 20s, simply use 5s, or something along those lines)... presumably the voltage meter would not use much power... tho still could be a bad idea that may unbalance the batteries if they are left unused over a period of time... given a charge would solve that once the cells hit the voltage the BMS will balance at (hoping to get an adjustable BMS next time around to be able to change the max/min voltage as well as when the cells balance).

Looking forward to getting, and using this spot welder. Got plenty of nickel, as well as some copper, on the way, hopefully also arriving soon. I still do find it ironic that the first battery I am building actually doesn't technically require the spot welder, considering the battery packs I'm using ar already setup as I need them, and laser welded together with copper plate.
 
I have been testing mine a bit now, both as a welder and a soldering station. And I have to say it's great! Easy to use and the welds are solid and nice looking.

I'm a bit concerned about the battery though. It's not long pulses, but it is basically a full short. You can se the leads jumping when welding. I don't know how lipo holds up with this kind of use.
 
The shorts are 16ms max. Usually between 1.4 and 7ms
Nothing to worry about. I used my lipos for months and after many packs they are in perfect shape. Just don't forget to set the lvc at 11v to prevent over discharge and your lipos will last.
 
I'm planning on adding 2 x 40mm heatsinks with 12v fans attached to the bottom of my welder (pretty similar to the cooling mod in the video, just with 12v instead of 24v).

BUT, since I am using 12v fans, and a 3s battery... wouldn't I be able to use the battery's output voltage (11.1V) to power the fans?

Has anyone else done this?... is it a bad idea, where I should use a separate wall power supply?.... Just seems like a pain in the ass to be tethered to a wall outlet, when everything else is portable. I know it'll kill my battery faster, but I figure 2 fans shouldn't be too fast at draining the battery.... but I suppose it'll also take away power from the welder itself in use.

Planning to do this mod within the next 24 hours... so any input on this is welcome. I plan to use a 4,000mAh Heavy Duty Turnigy 3S 11.1V 60-120C to power the welder.
 
Yes. You can power the fans and the solder with a 12v battery pack or even a 3s lipo. Just be extra careful if you use the lipo or add a buzzer. Nevertheless the fans should run for hours with a lipo. The consumption is very low.
I did a mod for using the lipo to solder here:
[youtube]73xb6SiqcRs[/youtube]
The same method is ok for the fans. Just get some Male and female jacks and make the adaptor.
 
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