0utrider said:
Yep!
In case others are interested in the details of what I used to make my homemade cable, below is some info I gave to Outrider about it.
WHAT I USED:
--TTL converter
--2 servo extension cables
--very small diameter heat shrink (for insulating the side of the jumpers that go onto the Bafang pins)
TTL CONVERTER
The only thing I had to buy specially for this was the TTL converter. I bought this one for 90 cents, shipped, from eBay seller jellycrewus: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pcs-PL2303-PL2303HX-USB-RS232-TTL-Auto-Converter-Adapter-STC-Module-JC-/111297053313?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19e9d24281
SERVO EXTENSIONS
You need five jumpers, and each servo cable has three wires, so you need at least two servo cables. I already had some old servo extension cables already on hand, and it's been awhile since I bought any, but I've always ordered them for next to nothing on dealextreme: http://www.dx.com/s/servo+extension
You can also order from Hobbyking or even go to your local RC hobbyshop. You'll get them much quicker that way, since stuff from dealextreme usually takes about a month to arrive.
Alternatively, if you have any friends who are in to RC (cars or planes), you can ask them if they have any dead servos that you can have the leads from. You'll need the connectors from two servos, with at least a several inches of wire to work with.
HEAT SHRINK
I was lucky to have some very small diameter heat shrink on hand from some project in the distant past. Ideally, you'll want heat shrink that is just BARELY wide enough to fit over the female receptacle on the end of the individual lead of the servo extension. Mine was slightly too big and didn't quit shrink down enough, so it's a pretty tight fit to get that 5th and and final connector pluged in.
CONNECTING IT ALL UP
Three jumpers connect the TTL to the male pins of the green plug coming from the controller. This is the only plug with a green connector; the others are yellow (throttle and brakes). When I say green, I'm referring to the inside coloring -- they are all black on the outside. The other two jumpers connect to each other after the other three are plugged in.
Once you have the fiver jumpers connected and the TTL module is correctly communicating with your computer (I used a netbook running Windows 7), you plug your main battery into the Bafang. It should very quickly detect and then you can read the data from each of the three tabs (and adjust settings as you desire). You have to hit read/write individually for each tab.
When I get a chance, I'll take some screen shots of what I changed my settings to. I have tweaked them several times, with several test rides in between, and I'm pretty happy with the changes. After a 17-mile ride last night with the new settings, I'm very happy with them.
-_-_-_ I am thinking I might sell my Dillenger bike shortly along with the Cyclamatic(which needs a rear wheel rebuild).
Yep, today you want to be called KOM, 
