Building E-bike with E-backpack

[amberwolf]

If you get a temperature sensor with alarm or beeper, you cna use the beeper output to trigger a 555 timer or similar to engage a throttle cutback (change resistance inline with or parallel to the throttle), to cut power back if it overheats.

You could set a second sensor to deactivate the controller's keyswitch/ignition line once temperature rises further past a second setpoint. Or have it activate the ebrake line (as long as you don't have regen enabled).

Then use the CA to limit current and whatnot normally for the rest of it.


That'd at least get you automatic control until the CA has it as a built-in option.

 

[Karl]

ok thank you

I will disconnect everything from the controller even if I made hell of a good wiring job :'(

but the question still stays : Is this fixable?

 

[Karl]

ya I just hope I can fix it...

 

[Andje]

let us know how you did the initial set up;
did you test all 36 hall combinations or just went with the first one that worked
did you calibrate your CA to your controller or just plug it in
could a brake be rubbing somewhere
is the tire rubbing on the frame

those are the things i'd look4 for first.

 

[mike662]

In your other thread you mentioned that there is a grinding noise when you try to move the wheel. I had this very same problem when I first built my ebike. It turns out that the washers that came with my hub motor were slightly too big and were brushing up against the rotating part of the gear cluster (the part that doesn't freewheel and rotates with the hub motor). This caused enough friction, even when I only tightened the axle nuts very little, to create tons of friction (sometimes the wheel would not move at all) and when I did move the wheel, it created an ear-piercing high-pitched grinding/squealing noise due to the metal grinding on metal. Here's a pic of the problem:

And here's one of the washer after I found out that it was the problem. Notice the ground edges where the rotating part of the gear cluster was touching the washer:

Hopefully this is the problem with yours as it is an easy fix by either getting a smaller washer or grinding down your current one to a smaller diameter.

 

[mike662]

Hey Karl,

Can I bother you to take a quick picture of your backpack with the batteries in it? I want to order mine ASAP but if possible I'd like to see the profile of the bag with the batteries in it to make sure the bag won't be too small. Thanks a bunch! And I tried answering the problem with your wheel in your other thread as it sounds like a problem I had before.

Mike

 

[Karl]

I ordered SB50 connectors.... in fact it was the housing only... she asked me what connector in that housing

which one should I order either a #6, #8 or #10/12. I would like it to run easily with my 84v10ah battery even if I upgrade

thanks
karl

 

[ZOMGVTEK]

I would run 8 gauge or thicker when possible, so long as it fits in all your connectors. 12 is pathetic, 10 is OK for most everything, but 8 barely costs any more.

 

[Karl]

Hey Karl,

Can I bother you to take a quick picture of your backpack with the batteries in it? I want to order mine ASAP but if possible I'd like to see the profile of the bag with the batteries in it to make sure the bag won't be too small. Thanks a bunch! And I tried answering the problem with your wheel in your other thread as it sounds like a problem I had before.

Mike

It is not completely done with secured elastic band and stuff but as for comparison

here it is

 

[Karl]

let us know how you did the initial set up;
did you test all 36 hall combinations or just went with the first one that worked
did you calibrate your CA to your controller or just plug it in
could a brake be rubbing somewhere
is the tire rubbing on the frame

those are the things i'd look4 for first.

The halls was easy to test.. I just connected the right colors together
the phase wires was easy too I just needed to follow the colors

the wheel was mounted perfectly so the big 2.5'' maxxis worm tire did not rub on the frame
as for the rear brakes... I didnt have any while testing and while the 5 minute ride
the CA was just directly plugged in with lyen's controller (I thought it was callibrated already...)

I aklso checked the bearings after the run and they are perfect

maybe its time to try a HS3540 lol

 

[Karl]

 

[Karl]

WOW! thanks I think it is the problem and why the motor was drawing to much amps for such low speeds!

I can't wait to see if thats the problem

 

[amberwolf]

The halls was easy to test.. I just connected the right colors together
the phase wires was easy too I just needed to follow the colors

So you've never followed the advice to make sure you have the right phase and hall combo? Despite the warning that colors do not always match? (actually, it is unusual for them to match)

This would probably be why you are still having problems.

It is frustrating to try to help someone that does not want to perform the necessary steps to actually find and fix their problem.

It is even worse when they do not want to provide sufficient details of the steps they have already performed.

It becomes nearly impossible when they make multiple threads about the problem, as not all of the necessary info is in one place, most people won't see all of the threads so they give what could be bad advice based on insufficient information, and even the person trying to get help probably won't get all the information needed to fix the problem.

It is definitely impossible when those threads are then closed with "problem solved" but nothing is said about what solved the problem or exactly what the problem turned out to be, yet the other troubleshooting threads show that the problem (or *a* problem) most definitely still exists.


These are all reasons why various people will give up trying to help someone, and why often that person may have trouble getting help in the future.

 

[Karl]

Amber,

I am sorry but I followed Lyen's guide on what to plug with 9c motor... Untill now ebikekit.com told me their new gen motors are not 9c...

my issue of (nothing works) was due to a defective throttle... I got another one and it ran flawlessly... (no load in my workshop)

how can I know that the phase were not acurate? or that I will need calibration with CA? (When I ordered a direct plugin CA)

I dont put all the trouble shooting in this thread because some are quick solved and does not need to be in this build thread.

Secondly I post under Technical discussion when I need technical help... Where did I miss???

 

[amberwolf]

You should check the gauge of wire you are actually using, and let them know what it is, so they can supply you with the right contacts.

If you have any wire strippers (which you'll need for preparing the wire for the contacts anyway) they most likely will have a gauge printed on each of the different sized holes for stripping the wire. Use that to fit around the copper wire (not the insulation) and you can see which gauge is closest.

(@ZOMGVTEK: Karl appears to be asking what contacts to use for his *existing* wiring, rather than what wire to use on the system)

 

[Andje]

karl,

I can't tell if those wires are black or just in shadow. Basically i can't see any residue from vaporized winding enamel on the inside of your hub motor case so I would guess you didn't short out a phase wire, so it's probably not "burnt". If you see any black at all, not just dark but black, and you should see carbon residue when you rub it, then you toasted your hub.

Now, when you first got on it, did it shudder at all under acceleration, was there a loud grinding style noise? When you said you "just matched the wires" this is where all of our red flags went up. Many times, the wiring colors simply do not match. There will be at least two combinations out of all 36 that will give you forward wheel spin, and will show no load but will fail under a load because it is the wrong combo; i know i once wired my 9c up and it spun up just fine, got all suited, took everything downstairs got on and GRRRRRIND. Just use ur hand and apply a tiny load to the wheel at low speed; if it torques against your resistance smoothly you probably have the right combo, if it grinds or shudders you don't.

Calibrating your CA is important because although it is a direct plug in, it has a digital shunt that will allow it to be used with any controller. So you need to figure out the resistance of the shunt in your controller; this is hard, easiest to supply the bike with a known wattage from a dc power source (your supply) and see what the CA says; then you know the ratio of how far it's out and can adjust it's settings to get the real wattage displayed.

Did it start out working perfect and then stop working perfect halfway through the ride? Or did it just never get up to speed?

 

[Karl]

thanks andje!

I will explain everything

1st I wanted to try out the bike in my workshop with no load just see if everything was working. It did not... I opened a thread under (technical discussion)
After trying all the 12 possible combination of throttle.. I changed it (thanks to ebikekit.com they put 2 kinds of throttle in 1 kit)
then everything was working fine

throttle was going smooth to wide open everything was OK

So, I took it outside for a ride!
went out my 100ft driveway at about 10km/h with minimum throttle. In the street I started pedaling till about 20km/h then added throttle. I went up to 30km/h in less than 300ft (as per non calibrated CA) and then I stoped turned around and decided to try it out for a speed run. I went about 35km/h... and from 1/2 throttle to full throttle the bike was going littlebit slower... but CA watts was cranking up. Since I am no retard I went back to 1/2 throttle to keep max speed and lower watts I kept it at around 1900-2100watts. After that speed test I stoped and touched my controller it was cool. Touched the motor and it was cool. I opened my backpack and battery was cool. I decided to go around the block which is about 2000ft or less. At around 3/4 of the run I heard a grinding noise this grinding noise refers to a constant rub when I stoped the bike acted like I was braking... And I was not... I tryed pedaling back home but it was really though to pedal like going up a hill in high gear.... I stoped and walked with the bike till I got home.

things I noticed while riding.
uncommon motor noise from motor... maybe all brushless hub motor does this noise? I know my small brushless rc motor does not sound like that...
I noticed after 2000watts or so I was going slower. I couldnt go faster than 30km/h on a straight even when I pushed 4100watts for a few seconds it did not make me go faster so I stopped trying the full throttle. All I managed was 41km/h down a small hill. Right after hitting 41km/h the motor began to act funny

I went home and did the touch test again. Motor was boiling hot (200f) this is what I noticed while riding which is less than 5 minute riding

 

[texaspyro]

HUUUGHHE FIRE BALL I MADE!! I burned my hands OMG it hurts

We like pictures of KFF (Kentucky Fried Fingers)... Show us the goods...

 

[mike662]

It is not completely done with secured elastic band and stuff but as for comparison

here it is

Thank you! Looks like it will fit my 10x4c5ah turnigy hardcase just fine as the hardcase are wider by about 0.4cm but shorter by 2 cm. I placed my order for one of these backpacks on eBay.

 

[Andje]

if you put it back together again , the motor should spin freely when spun by hand, and then while spinning if you touch two of the phase wires together it should stop immediately. If it doesnt spin then there is a phase short and your motor is dead. When you wired the halls up did you solder and heat shrink the wires properly, or at least get a connector in there? I had trouble once with a cold solder joint in mid use just after putting it together.
when you were pushing the bike with no power did it feel like it was resisting you, or was it spinning normally once you turned off the power? if it felt like pushing the bike through pudding your motor is toasted. The test is definetly to put it together and see if it will spin on its bearings and then see if touching phase wires together makes it stop.
You can check your controller for shorted mosfets by checking continuity between the controller phase wires and the positive and negative in wires with a multimeter; they should not read as connected and if they are it indicates shorted mosfets.

 

[neptronix]

The halls was easy to test.. I just connected the right colors together
the phase wires was easy too I just needed to follow the colors

So you've never followed the advice to make sure you have the right phase and hall combo? Despite the warning that colors do not always match? (actually, it is unusual for them to match)

This would probably be why you are still having problems.

It is frustrating to try to help someone that does not want to perform the necessary steps to actually find and fix their problem.

It is even worse when they do not want to provide sufficient details of the steps they have already performed.

It becomes nearly impossible when they make multiple threads about the problem, as not all of the necessary info is in one place, most people won't see all of the threads so they give what could be bad advice based on insufficient information, and even the person trying to get help probably won't get all the information needed to fix the problem.

It is definitely impossible when those threads are then closed with "problem solved" but nothing is said about what solved the problem or exactly what the problem turned out to be, yet the other troubleshooting threads show that the problem (or *a* problem) most definitely still exists.

These are all reasons why various people will give up trying to help someone, and why often that person may have trouble getting help in the future.

LOL, i was thinking that too.

I saw one of his threads that said 'woww big fireball' then the next post was 'resolved'... just imagine the confusion of someone not following all the various threads.


If people don't try to explain their problems adequately, i won't even jump in and help usually. You are a saint for trying..

 

[Karl]

HUUUGHHE FIRE BALL I MADE!! I burned my hands OMG it hurts

We like pictures of KFF (Kentucky Fried Fingers)... Show us the goods...

 

[Andje]

pretty sure we can ignore all this at this stage; his stuff is in the for sale section.

 

[john7700]

You guys here on the spoke are true embasidors for the sport of E-biking. I mean it. They way you tolerate Newbs and or the completely clue less or even down right rude folks is amazing. You guys are a big part of what makes ES what it is.

 

[Karl]

everything is for sale

I quit!