SlowCo
1 MW
That trike is 8) :thumb:
Get a BBSHD (or BBS02) mid drive motor on that for electric support
Get a BBSHD (or BBS02) mid drive motor on that for electric support
SlowCo said:That trike is 8) :thumb:
Get a BBSHD (or BBS02) mid drive motor on that for electric support
SlowCo said:Just use the PAS function. By just rotating the pedals the motor will assist at the level you chose.
fechter said:You'd need to do something about the brakes though. Can't use a coaster brake with a BB drive. You could make it work with a front hub motor.
amberwolf said:note that with that really small sprocket just above the large one, there is not much chain wrap, so not many teeth are engaged, on the small sprocket. that may cause excessive wear on the small sprocket, and if there's insufficient tension the chain may even slip upward on the teeth.
so if there's any way to do it, i would put the large sprocket far enough away from the small one (or vice-versa) so you get as much wrap as possible.
if you like you can try it out the way you have it first, and if there are problems you can then move stuff to make better wrap.
an idler would cause even more wrap (even without moving anything from where it is now), but it will add noise and lower efficiency a little, so unless you require one to solve another problem, you don't need one.
fechter said:There will be some pretty serious forces on that pillow block during acceleration. I haven't used those before so not sure how strong they are. For sure you will have some flexing. The small sprockets may tend to wear out quickly or even break. If you have problems, increasing the tooth count on all the sprockets will help. Think of a motorcycle chain. The forces here will be in that ballpark as the overall weight will be similar. If there is any option to make the jack shaft shorter, it will reduce the twisting action.
Yes, definitely, with a single self aligning pillow block, that jackshaft will move even without a chain breaking.Because the pillow block is 'self aligning', there runs the risk of a chain becoming slack, or breaking, thus the remaining chain would be pulled out of alignment, and loosing both chains or causing damage......not good.
So I guess I will add one or two more pillow blocks, to keep things inline.
Hillhater said:Yes, definitely, with a single self aligning pillow block, that jackshaft will move even without a chain breaking.Because the pillow block is 'self aligning', there runs the risk of a chain becoming slack, or breaking, thus the remaining chain would be pulled out of alignment, and loosing both chains or causing damage......not good.
So I guess I will add one or two more pillow blocks, to keep things inline.
Ideally the two sprockets on the jackshaft would be as close together as possible to minimise any pivoting loads, and the pillow blocks as wide apart as possible.
Hillhater said:A suggestion fron these idle hands..
Locate the motor as far back as possible.
I have maybe 3 inches of motor movement forward or back. There are frame issues, in and around where the motor mount holes are, coupled with sprocket alignment.
Move the JS back as close as possible to the motor ( shorter chain is better)
The JS, is where it is, mainly because I can use existing frame mounts. I can move the motor forward another 1/2" - 3/4".
Extend the JS to a pillow block on the outside frame rail ,
Hmmm. Isn't that what I did? Oh the 'outside rail'. Too late ! That certainly would have been doable.
Maybe I'm missing your point here.just use 2 pillow blocks, the one nearest the 11 T sprocket, and the one on the outer rail.
As you can see this new version does use, just two pillow blocks...2 per side. (2 per JS)
If you mean just two period, that would be hard to do, as I have two live axles.
Hillhater said:moving the motor mount and JS to the rear, creates room for the brake disc under the JS and shorten the chain length.
Using a longer JS to a bearing on the outer rail. ( close to the wheel). Reduces the bearing loading and stiffens the JS assembly to minimise movement under load.
OK if its too late, but i thought you were just in “ mock up” stage , and looking for options ?
moving the motor mount and JS to the rear, creates room for the brake disc under the JS
Reduces the bearing loading and stiffens the JS assembly to minimize movement under load.
Ok, but using those dims,. You could get a 9” dia brake rotor on with an extended JSJust_Ed said:.
The sprocket is 5.5" diameter.
The pillow block spacer is 1"
PB bottom to ctr of bore is 1.5"