Tats said:And....an order in from Perth too. Rumour has it cricket Australia are interested in an experiment to cool Steve Smith’s form with the bat. :wink:
Thats a low blow
Haah, merry christmas
Tats said:And....an order in from Perth too. Rumour has it cricket Australia are interested in an experiment to cool Steve Smith’s form with the bat. :wink:
sketchism said:hey Andrew your order went out in todays (monday morning) post so say 7 days to be safe
redline2097 said:Which hubmotor motor is lightest that can handle 3kw cont and 8kw peaks with hubsinks and ferro? Anything less weighting than Mxus 3000w V3?
RollerBoy said:I put these on about 9 months ago. They were fun to install and very well crafted - and with Statorade / Ferrofluid the overheat issues on my commute have disappeared.
Hope that this pictorial story-line of the installation is helpful/entertaining.
Or if there's room for it, one of those 90-degree "RV wheel" adapters that you leave on the tire's valve stem. I use those on my SB Cruiser's rear wheels, because there's already not enough room for the hose's locking flip-tab to move to fully locked without hitting the spoke flanges. (or I I manage to get it locked, I can't get it unlocked and off without letting a fair bit of air back out of the tire).mrbill said:You should be aware that if you install Hubsinks on a 406 wheel you will probably need a 90-degree pump-head adapter of the kind used to inflate tires on disk wheels as most standard pump heads will not fit between the valve and the Hubsinks. This is a minor hassle as these adapters do not make a good seal with the valve, making it difficult to inflate the tire to a specific pressure using the pump's pressure gauge.
mrbill said:I would assume that Grin inserted the proper amount of Statorade to give the most cooling without adding adding too much rolling resistance. Unless you see evidence of the brown, oily fluid leaking out past the flange, through the insertion hole, or onto the rim, then the Statorade probably staying where it should.
mrbill said:I'm surprised your motor temperature is rising so quickly on that climb. Perhaps you are not contributing as much human power as you think. On grades over 12%, pedaling output can make a big difference in performance as the motor is already getting bogged down. Every 1 mph of additional climbing speed at less than 10 mph gives several percent greater efficiency. The stronger you are the more likely you will make it up the hill without stopping. Also, my over-temperature rollback range is 100-120C.
mrbill said:I have a 406 wheel on my bike right now that I'm testing. I will try to get out to your street this weekend and do the same climb. I don't log the stats over time as you do, but I can observe and report what I discover.
You're welcome :wink:rberger said:Got the Hubsinks on my hub/wheel. The "remove one spoke" technique worked well.
rberger said:I wonder if there is a way to tell if I have lost the Ferrofluid.
rberger said:I'm looking forward to hearing your results! I'm hoping to have time to put on the Hubsinks this weekend.
Thanks again for all the help.
mrbill said:What controller are you using to drive your motor? Is there a chance that the controller is not tuned well to the motor? Does the controller get hot to the touch? The controller should seldom get more than detectably warm to the touch.
mrbill said:Your speeds are similar to mine, but your power is 50-75% higher. Some of that is due to weight difference, and some to pedaling input. I was pedaling pretty hard on the steep stuff.
With a larger drive wheel I have found that on long, steep (>12%) grades, the motor temperature may rise into the rollback zone. When the CA3 rolls back power, the temperature usually stabilizes at a lower power level, say 500-600 watts that I can hold indefinitely. Could you try your climb again, but this time set the power limit on your CA3 to 1000 watts? You will climb more slowly, but you may find you no longer need to stop for a cool-down, and your overall time may be lower. You may need trial and error to find the maximum power you can use on your hill and not be forced to stop for a cool-down.