999zip999
100 TW
You will run into problems charging Ping's cell to fast or discharging at to high a rate. Maybe you need A123 cells.
Fast Charging a Ping
- Thread starter themadhatter106
- Start date
This month I got into 60+ mile rides with the mrs and we charged her packs at 12amps (20amp 24v ping). No heat no explosions etc. Used a turnigy reactor 300w hobby charger and a 12v 20ah lifepo4 booster pack I take on longer rides.
I just noticed pings pages now list a new bms that can charge at 15amps and the packs can do 2c cont/3c bursts. Wonder if he changed his pouches.
As my pack is meticulously balanced before rides I just charge at the destination in unbalanced mode via a deans plug I added to enable me to easily remove the bms. I monitor the cells still and If I want 12amps I use the main discharge wires. But I can also take my cellpro 10s xp and connect the balance port if I wanted. If you want to do this you need to add a 9th wire to the pings standard 8 wire jst (your missing the main negative wire).
If I send 7-8 amps down the standard charge cables they get slightly warm (red and white in pic). Over this I used the leads coming from the controller. Im not saying this is the best thing to do or something just showing that I have pumped these batteries hard a few times and all seems good. I have babied these cells for 3 years and have never "abused" them like this before so its early days. I too found no info on what people have tried with pings.
When I used regen down huge hills with a 500w 24v conhis motor running 36v my ping got more out of balance than usual. Whatever regen current I made seemed to upset the ping a bit and dont think 20amps sounds like a good idea.
I just noticed pings pages now list a new bms that can charge at 15amps and the packs can do 2c cont/3c bursts. Wonder if he changed his pouches.
As my pack is meticulously balanced before rides I just charge at the destination in unbalanced mode via a deans plug I added to enable me to easily remove the bms. I monitor the cells still and If I want 12amps I use the main discharge wires. But I can also take my cellpro 10s xp and connect the balance port if I wanted. If you want to do this you need to add a 9th wire to the pings standard 8 wire jst (your missing the main negative wire).
If I send 7-8 amps down the standard charge cables they get slightly warm (red and white in pic). Over this I used the leads coming from the controller. Im not saying this is the best thing to do or something just showing that I have pumped these batteries hard a few times and all seems good. I have babied these cells for 3 years and have never "abused" them like this before so its early days. I too found no info on what people have tried with pings.
When I used regen down huge hills with a 500w 24v conhis motor running 36v my ping got more out of balance than usual. Whatever regen current I made seemed to upset the ping a bit and dont think 20amps sounds like a good idea.
themadhatter106
100 W
Well I got my alloy shell 1200W charger from BMS battery: http://www.bmsbattery.com/alloy-she...ifepo4li-ionlead-acid-battery-ev-charger.html.
My mods work great. The heat sink I added only heats up to about 110F from the two IFRB4110 and it charges quite fast. I like the charger, it seems like a pretty quality product. The fan only turns on when the temperature reaches a certain threshold which is a nice feature.
I told them to make the charger 60V 18A and the small screen on the charger displays voltage and current. There is a small switch to change between voltage and current readings. Sure enough the voltage is 59.9V and the current flickers between 17.9A and 18A. However, I would like to tweak it up to 20A if possible. I decided to open it up and take a look.
Well there sure are a lot of potentiometers. Now the question is which one does what? I decided to send BMS battery an email and see if they will tell me which one will adjust the current. I'm not sure that they will but its worth a try.
As far as lifetime of the battery the cells cycle life is rated for <1C charge and <1C discharge. When I asked ping he said that 1C charge is fine but reduction of cycle life will occur. Its impossible to know how much of an effect occasional 1C charging will have on a ping until someone tries it. I have looked but couldn't find anyone who had tried it and if someone did try it then they just didn't post anything to the forums. I guess I am venturing into new territory here. 8)
I have my eyes on a123 when I decide to get a new battery.
My mods work great. The heat sink I added only heats up to about 110F from the two IFRB4110 and it charges quite fast. I like the charger, it seems like a pretty quality product. The fan only turns on when the temperature reaches a certain threshold which is a nice feature.
I told them to make the charger 60V 18A and the small screen on the charger displays voltage and current. There is a small switch to change between voltage and current readings. Sure enough the voltage is 59.9V and the current flickers between 17.9A and 18A. However, I would like to tweak it up to 20A if possible. I decided to open it up and take a look.
Well there sure are a lot of potentiometers. Now the question is which one does what? I decided to send BMS battery an email and see if they will tell me which one will adjust the current. I'm not sure that they will but its worth a try.
As far as lifetime of the battery the cells cycle life is rated for <1C charge and <1C discharge. When I asked ping he said that 1C charge is fine but reduction of cycle life will occur. Its impossible to know how much of an effect occasional 1C charging will have on a ping until someone tries it. I have looked but couldn't find anyone who had tried it and if someone did try it then they just didn't post anything to the forums. I guess I am venturing into new territory here. 8)
I have my eyes on a123 when I decide to get a new battery.
dnmun
1 PW
i think there is some kinda problem with the opto transistor chain and i think some of the time the gate voltage of the charging mosfet is in the transition region and the transistor turned on and a large slug of current crowds through as the mosfet turns on and the output caps on the charger are suddenly discharged through these high resistance phases.
i wonder if there was some way to do a slow start on the current flowing out of the charger into the battery when the charging mosfet turns back on. i think the current is lower when the mosfet is turning off. but maybe it happens all the time and that is why they cook. but nobody seems to have this problem with 4110s. maybe put a choke on the charger output.
if you would just look at the gate voltage on the charging mosfet as the battery charges up you might see what i am talking.
you can measure the voltage drop on the optotransistor also to see which ones are different from the others. maybe it has something to do with the optotransistors or the comparators.
i wonder if there was some way to do a slow start on the current flowing out of the charger into the battery when the charging mosfet turns back on. i think the current is lower when the mosfet is turning off. but maybe it happens all the time and that is why they cook. but nobody seems to have this problem with 4110s. maybe put a choke on the charger output.
if you would just look at the gate voltage on the charging mosfet as the battery charges up you might see what i am talking.
you can measure the voltage drop on the optotransistor also to see which ones are different from the others. maybe it has something to do with the optotransistors or the comparators.
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