First build - "KTM SXE"

Elektrosherpa · Mar 11, 2022

On "mykettenkit.de" I found a nice little overview of the measures for various chains:

https://www.mykettenkit.de/ketten-abc/begriff-erklaerung-kettenteilung

rivvs · Mar 11, 2022

Jocke_D said:
Summary for me and everyone else who might be looking for sprockets.

Jordan325ic (on the forum)
- PM on forum. Made some sprockets but has none left as of now. Might make more later.

MightE.me
- Looked at their site. Seem to be the only one to have a 520. Only 13t unfortunately. https://mighte.me/product/13t-520pitch-qs-v3-and-70h-sprocket/

Electrobraap
- EMail contact. Only has 428 but in 13 & 15t. Recommends to use 428 with a custom rear sprocket. Also says that I probably can get 7000 rpm but they are not pleased with my chosen controler

JTsprockets
- EMail contact. Doesn't have anything in 520 for the 14/17 shaft but lots of 428. Also no rear sprockets for my KTM hubs in 428 (backup plan)

mykettenrad.de
- EMail contact. Has lots in 428. They are currently investigating my request for a 520 to see if they have anything. I'll ask about rear ones in 428 when they get back to me.

So my options right now are to go with the Mighte.me and a stock 38 rear OR some 428 15t which I probably can get locally.
520 = 13/38 equals 119km/h if I can get the motor to 7000rpm. I have lots of chains and rear sprockets.
428 = if I can get 428 rear sprockets for my hub the gearing options are almost unlimited. Everything needs to be bought new.

Any ideas if it is a risk to use the 428? Will I risk to break it?
Are there any 428 rear sprockets available anywhere?

Why are electrobraap not pleased with the controller? I just bought a 961800 myself

Jocke_D · Mar 13, 2022

rivvs said:
Why are electrobraap not pleased with the controller? I just bought a 961800 myself

"The fardriver controllers have been a nightmare for us. We have very very particular requirements for our race bikes and the fardriver has very lackluster response at its current firmware state. We are working with the manufacturer to resolve this hopefully firmware issue but so far to no avail."

If you read the thread for Fardriver a couple are not happy with some things but the majority seem to be pleased.

Jocke_D · Mar 17, 2022

Small update and some questions

Everything but the power supply (cleared customs on the 13th) is in place on the bench. Got the BMS (ANT BMS 24S) from a friend yesterday.

Started labeling connectors on the controler as a way of getting to know what I'm working with. Found that some connectors are pretty simple to understand but some are more confusing. Picture shows throttle connector and wires from the throttle.

In the instructions I found these connectors are listed
Hall line - Motor 5V, Motor temp, Motor ground, Motor C, Motor B, Motor A
--> Seem pretty straight forward. Matching connector to the motor and even matching colors.

Electric door lock - Electric door lock key
--> What does this do?

Cruise boost - No description
--> What does this do?

Low brake - GND, Low brake
--> I assume this will trigger "low power regeneration"?

Analog speedometer - Hall speedo signal
--> Not needed for now

High brake - High brake
--> Same as low brake but high power regen?

Throttle - GND, Accelerator signal
--> Pretty important.

Anti theft signal - Anti theft, Phase line, Electric door lock
--> Huh?

Anti theft power supply - Batt +, Batt -
--> See above...

High and low speed - High speed, GND, Low speed
--> Delivered with a short circuit to get high speed as default

Backward gear - Back, GND
--> Connect to a switch to get back gear I guess.

Velocity pulse - One line
--> Not needed now.

Upgrade port - Serial power supply, Serial port, Serial port, GND
--> Basically USB. Delivered with an bluetooth dongle. Have installed the latest app but was told I need an older version since the newest is not translated properly.

I'm thinking connectors in bold is a must to get the motor turning. Italic is "nice to have", to be implemented later. The rest is not important or even of no interest at all I think. Or is the door lock och perhaps the anti theft signal crucial to get the motor spinning? What do you guys think?

And if anyone is interested this is how my batteries look like with the covers taken off. Each module has 12 cells. Why are there 13 connectors? (Jonas - help

)

To end this post I have a question mainly for the swedish members. Is there somewhere I can get matching connectors pretty locally? It would be great to avoid bullet connectors. If anyone have ideas to get connectors in Europe that would be great also.

j bjork · Mar 17, 2022

Can electric door lock be an orange wire to 11 on the controller?
In that case it seems to be power on/off.
It often help to look at a diagram when trying to figure out the chinglish, here is one:
https://www.far-driver.com/nd72850/

High or low brake is probably just how they are activated, low activates low (ground)
High activates high (+12V usually)

About batteries: you have 12cells with 2 poles each, 24 poles.
You series connect them, meaning the first +to the second - and so on. Then you are left with the first - and the last +, the other 22 poles has been halved to 11 as they are joined together 2 and 2.
So 11+2=13
That is how good of an explanation I can give in English I think

Jocke_D · Apr 8, 2022

Nothing major here unfortunately. Or one minor that has happened and one pretty big that is happening.

Ordered and got delivery of a 15t 520 front sprocket from MightE. Really expensive unfortunately so hope it will work well. Ihave not even tried it on the motor yet.

This is how the bike looks right now. The keen observer will notice a black thing that goes in the middle is missing in the pile. That's because I've left it at a fabricator that does amazing work on cars and bikes. He will modify the frame so I can fit the battery modules in a really good way (I hope). If my plan works it will make the bike really slim and with great ergonomics. I might even be able to fit the controller next to the motor.
Lots of work left after that fitting battery module and engine but at least I will know the frame will not separate when riding.

Jocke_D · Mar 5, 2023

Wow!
It's been a while since I last posted. Life gets in the way etc etc.....

I'll try to get the thread back on track. The frame came back from fabrication and turned out great. If I had taken some measurements I could have made some more room for battery and engine but now it is what it is.

Made some sort of mock up to boost morale and try to figure out where everything goes. (try to not look at the complete mess I reside in

)

After that everything came to a stnad still for way to long. But this weekend something happened. Went to a friend that has built a couple of smaller batterys before to get a boost. We ended up with this.

And finally hooked everything up and got the engine turning. (screenshot from a video below)

Next up is to get everything mounted in the bike. I have a pretty good idea how the lower bracket for the battery will look. The top will be something to think about.
Then mount the motor and controller. I think the controller will go in the old air box but we'll see.

peadar · Mar 6, 2023

Jocke_D said:
Small update and some questions

Everything but the power supply (cleared customs on the 13th) is in place on the bench. Got the BMS (ANT BMS 24S) from a friend yesterday.
View attachment 313317

Started labeling connectors on the controler as a way of getting to know what I'm working with. Found that some connectors are pretty simple to understand but some are more confusing. Picture shows throttle connector and wires from the throttle.
View attachment 313316

In the instructions I found these connectors are listed
Hall line - Motor 5V, Motor temp, Motor ground, Motor C, Motor B, Motor A
--> Seem pretty straight forward. Matching connector to the motor and even matching colors.

Electric door lock - Electric door lock key
--> What does this do?

Cruise boost - No description
--> What does this do?

Low brake - GND, Low brake
--> I assume this will trigger "low power regeneration"?

Analog speedometer - Hall speedo signal
--> Not needed for now

High brake - High brake
--> Same as low brake but high power regen?

Throttle - GND, Accelerator signal
--> Pretty important.

Anti theft signal - Anti theft, Phase line, Electric door lock
--> Huh?

Anti theft power supply - Batt +, Batt -
--> See above...

High and low speed - High speed, GND, Low speed
--> Delivered with a short circuit to get high speed as default

Backward gear - Back, GND
--> Connect to a switch to get back gear I guess.

Velocity pulse - One line
--> Not needed now.

Upgrade port - Serial power supply, Serial port, Serial port, GND
--> Basically USB. Delivered with an bluetooth dongle. Have installed the latest app but was told I need an older version since the newest is not translated properly.

I'm thinking connectors in bold is a must to get the motor turning. Italic is "nice to have", to be implemented later. The rest is not important or even of no interest at all I think. Or is the door lock och perhaps the anti theft signal crucial to get the motor spinning? What do you guys think?

And if anyone is interested this is how my batteries look like with the covers taken off. Each module has 12 cells. Why are there 13 connectors? (Jonas - help )
View attachment 313318

To end this post I have a question mainly for the swedish members. Is there somewhere I can get matching connectors pretty locally? It would be great to avoid bullet connectors. If anyone have ideas to get connectors in Europe that would be great also.

Nice battery what size L/W/H

Jocke_D · Mar 6, 2023

peadar said:
Nice battery what size L/W/H

Don't know but can measure them later on. They are from a Passat GTE.
Basically like a generic shoe box

peadar · Mar 6, 2023

Jocke_D said:
Don't know but can measure them later on. They are from a Passat GTE.
Basically like a generic shoe box

Thanks,my battery box is 18' 460mm , i made it for two chevy volt modules 96v

j bjork · Mar 6, 2023

Nice to hear something from you again.
Slow progress is better than no progress

bayodome · Mar 8, 2023

Jocke_D said:
Yeah, I found lots of sprockets on their site for 520 in 16/20 but in 14/17 there are only 428.
I am in contact with them to see if they can find anything.

Electrobraap has 13t but I don't know if it is 420/428/520 yet.
Could be the same as mighte.me is offering. In that case it's a 520. 13t will be to small unless I can get 7000rpm out of the motor.

My backup plan is to see if I can get 428 rear sprockets for my hubs. Hopefully with a decent chain it'll work.

If you're looking for 520 front sprockets for the 70h V3 the best two options are:

Lithium King (based in Florida) which is what I have. They have 12t, 13t and 14t.
Lithium King | EV Parts, Batteries, Conversions Kits

MightE (based in the UK). They have 12t, 13t, 14t and 15t.
13t 520 pitch sprocket (for QS138 V3)

I've heard nothing but good things about both. The sprockets also both retail for about the same price, so shipping is the limiting factor depending on where you are. For me in NJ, it would've been about $95 just for the MightE option, so I held off until I found the Lithium King one, which is very nicely made.

Good luck with the project!

First build - "KTM SXE"

Elektrosherpa

1 kW

rivvs

100 W

Jocke_D

10 mW

Jocke_D

10 mW

j bjork

1 MW

Jocke_D

10 mW

Jocke_D

10 mW

peadar

100 W

Jocke_D

10 mW

peadar

100 W

j bjork

1 MW

bayodome

10 µW

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