going electric, converting one of my bikes

[Drunkskunk]

From your first pic, the 3 large wires are the phase wires. Those attach to the 3 phase wires on the controller. Start by matching color to color, but they don't always work that way, so you may need to make a change after everything is hooked up.

The 5 thinner wires are the hall sensor wires. they tell the controller when to turn on the various phase wires, and in what order. They should connect to 5 similar wires on the controller color for color, but that also may need to be changed. the colors used aren't universal, but figuring out which ones are right isn't hard. Red always goes to red, black always to black.

There is a possibility that your controller is one of the sensorless models, and won't have those 5 wires. If so, ignore them for now. A pic of your actual controller and it's connectors would help.

The power wires indicated on the diagram are the wires that run to the battery.


once everything is hooked up, and if the controller is indeed sensorless and those 5 thin wires remain ignored, figuring out the 3 phase wires will be easy. It will either work perfect, or try to run in reverse (which will go nowhere in a geared motor) If it trys to go in reverse, switching any two wires will cause it to run forward.

 

[motomech]

So the 201rpm engine along with the rest of the kit arrived Thursday July 3, about 3 weeks after placing the order. Got home from holliday (part1) yesterday and picked it up today, started wiring a bit, but holiday (part2) starts tomorrow at 5am, so I didn't have the time to finish it.

The rear wheel needs redishing, and I needed spacers to keep the disc brake mount from rubbing the rotor, then there's the issue of the bottle battery fitted upside down due to space shortage. Lot's of small things keeping me from finishing it, and one bigger issue.

I can't find any info on how to connect these wires (between motor and controller), controller DOC says the 3 big wires are for 3 phase motor. Do the "3 phase wire" replace the "pwr wire"? How are they connected?

Also, there are 5 smaller wires which I can't find a description for, there's also a plastic socket to slide them into. Do I need these? Can't find anywhere to connect them on the controller doc.

View attachment 1

Here's the controller DOC, the wires named "power wire" can't be found among the equipment I received. Do the "3 phase motor wire" replace them?

Everything will hook up as per diagram, color to color. The only thing you need to do is to install the pins into the white connector. Again, same color wire go together. Make sure the pins are secure in the housing, so they do not work loose.
Do not shorten any wires now. A camera bag or something like it can be used to hide the extra wiring.
It would be a good idea to replace the five big wire(power and phase)connectors with 4 mm bullet connectors, but you can do that later when you are sure everything works.
I am installing a Cute kit tonight(328, SO6P and LCD-3 display, so if you have anymore questions, post here.

 

[motomech]

double post

 

[d8veh]

That's right. You have a cable that runs from the motor to the controller. At the controller end, there's the three phase wires that go colour to colour. You need the white plastic connector block for the hall wires, which you'll find in the bag with the motor nuts, washers, etc. They leave the block off in case you need to thread the wire through somewhere.

You might find it very difficult to get all the connectors in the space provided. You might consider soldering the wires directly to each other. You don't need connectors there because you have the multipin connector at the other end of the lead.

 

[knut7]

Thanks for your replies. 3phase wires are now connected to the controller, all colors correct. There's no black and red power wires on the controller, so I guess I don't need them.

Now the hand throttle and motor is connected to the battery/controller. I guess that's all I need to get it running!?

Controller is integrated in the battery case, its an s06p square wave type. It's got no plug matching The supplied connector for The hall wire Connector is 2x3 layout.

sorry about The random CAPS, Phone auto correct, got tired of retyping. Photos Will follow later.

 

[knut7]

So I hooked up the LCD display and gave it a go, it works nicely! Only minor complaint is it takes a few seconds from the throttle is "floored" until power kicks in. Will post a build report here when I come across a proper internet connection.

 

[knut7]

The bike still works, here's a brief build report.



View attachment 7

View attachment 6



View attachment 5

 

[motomech]

Number of problems I see.
Axle is up-side down. water will enter the cut-out.
It appears that you have not filled the drop-outs deep enough, the "tab" part of the tab washer is not in the drop-out. It doesn't offer any anti-spin the way you have it.
The tab washer should really be on the out-side, but I guess thast is ok. did you have to spread the chain stays? You know the brake caliper is adjustable side to side. If it will not move far enough, you may be able the lenghten the slots with a sm. file. I have never had any interfearance with a Cute in the 135 mm rear drop-outs, but maybe your disc is larger.
I will assume that you installed the axle nut. MaKE sure you put the cap on.
Yes, you need to dish the wheel quite a lot.
Are there water bottle mount bosses(Screw holes)on the underside of the lower down-tube? The battery could go there. Or fab a adaptor plate to move the bottle holder, so the battery can be mounted right-side up.
You might have the "delay" throttle setting activated on the display.
If the "speed" info is off and you want to mount the speed sensor, glue the magnet to the rim. Or mount it on the rear wheel.
I don't know about winding the extra wire like that. It might cause problems. At any rate, it doesn't look very good. You need to mount a small bike bag somewhere to hide all the extra wire in.
You will find that you will not use the front shifter. I take off the shifter, hide it a bag(still connected, so the chain ring guide stays put)and mount the throttle goes on the left. much better, shift with the right hand and throttle with left.
Are youy going to mount the PAS, with the 5 level display you should.
That seat sure is high, is the bike that small for you? Well, you will probably start wishing for rear suspension soon anyhow.

 

[knut7]

Number of problems I see.
Axle is up-side down. water will enter the cut-out.
It appears that you have not filled the drop-outs deep enough, the "tab" part of the tab washer is not in the drop-out. It doesn't offer any anti-spin the way you have it.
The tab washer should really be on the out-side, but I guess thast is ok. did you have to spread the chain stays? You know the brake caliper is adjustable side to side. If it will not move far enough, you may be able the lenghten the slots with a sm. file. I have never had any interfearance with a Cute in the 135 mm rear drop-outs, but maybe your disc is larger.
I will assume that you installed the axle nut. MaKE sure you put the cap on.
Yes, you need to dish the wheel quite a lot.
Are there water bottle mount bosses(Screw holes)on the underside of the lower down-tube? The battery could go there. Or fab a adaptor plate to move the bottle holder, so the battery can be mounted right-side up.
You might have the "delay" throttle setting activated on the display.
If the "speed" info is off and you want to mount the speed sensor, glue the magnet to the rim. Or mount it on the rear wheel.
I don't know about winding the extra wire like that. It might cause problems. At any rate, it doesn't look very good. You need to mount a small bike bag somewhere to hide all the extra wire in.
You will find that you will not use the front shifter. I take off the shifter, hide it a bag(still connected, so the chain ring guide stays put)and mount the throttle goes on the left. much better, shift with the right hand and throttle with left.
Are youy going to mount the PAS, with the 5 level display you should.
That seat sure is high, is the bike that small for you? Well, you will probably start wishing for rear suspension soon anyhow.

Wheel is installed the correct way, that photo was taken when the wheel was temporarily installed to check for fit. Caps are fitted. I need an IS/PM adapter for the rear brake, that's actually touching the rotor if I don't use a washer. No help moving the caliper as it's the adapter's fault. The chainstays had to be spread a few mms, didn't have to pull them apart much.

The left shifter may have to go, will use it a bit and see how much I use it. Got a new Shimano crank with 40t big ring, might install that for a 1x9 setup. That would solve the throttle issue.

There are no other options for mounting the bottle battery unfortunately.

PAS sensor is not yet fitted, it's no room for it on this bike with a press fit BB. Will try to modify it to fit, but that'll have to wait until I return home. Losing the smallest chainring could make room for it.

The power wires have not been wound like that, only the wires for throttle/speedsensor and LCD, I assumed the currents are so low I wont have a problem with magnetic fields, but I may be wrong.

I'll probably get another front wheel with round spokes so the Crossride set can be used elsewhere. Will have another look at the display and look for delayed throttle, thx for your feedback.

My legs are pretty long compared to my upper body, it's a standard problem for me, need short reach and high seat. I find M/18" is the best compromise, although I guess an L frame would work with a 60mm stem. And a bigger frame would hold the bottle battery...

 

[d8veh]

If you don't fit the wheel-speed sensor, you might find that the controller goes to sleep after 5 minutes or so. You can buy a neodymium magnet from Ebay that you cam glue somewhere on the wheel. Maybe you can epoxy one to one of your spokes:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Neodymium-disc-magnets-8mm-dia-x-3mm-N35-craft-reborn-fridge-diy-/140938365364?pt=UK_Dolls_Accessories_RL&hash=item20d094c9b4

IIUC you have the S06P controller (no hall wires) and the 201 rpm Q100. Can you confirm this, and confirm that it works at speed with no syncing problems. My S06P wouldn't work with the 328 rpm Q100.

I'm not sure about the battery being upside down. It's designed so that water runs down the back and through the controller compartment. I can't see that being a problem though. The battery itself is not waterproof. There's lots of places water gets in. They forget to put the O rings in the joints the top and bottom. The latch has a hole in it, and the battery indicator LED windows are not glued (loose). If you want to use it in rhe rain, you should open it up to seal it with silicone, or make a cover for it like a rain-coat.

The pedal sensor will make the bike much nicer to ride. If you need any help to install it, please ask. I would upgrade to a 44T Shimano M590 crank, which makes installation of PAS dead easy. 40T is too low for an electric bike.

I agree with Motomech. The motor isn't into the drop-outs deep enough. If you don't want to file them deeper, you need at least one torque arm mounted like this:

 

[Chalo]

That seat sure is high, is the bike that small for you? Well, you will probably start wishing for rear suspension soon anyhow.

The bars are arranged slightly below seat level, which is normal for a pedal cycle ridden by a fit experienced rider. That arrangement also mitigates any "need" for rear suspension, which really only comes into its own when the rider sits upright in a position that makes it difficult to stand up on the pedals as necessary.

Around town here, I see e-bikers almost without exception using riding positions that impair their ability to pedal effectively-- which not coincidentally they are almost never doing.

It's worth pointing out that road racing cyclists go faster than most of us with only as much suspension as their 23mm tires provide. A fat tire bike on pavement or groomed trails needs suspension like it needs an onboard nuclear reactor. In either case, it's a needlessly complex and heavy enhancement that does nothing for the basic function of the bike.

It's a tasteful thing in my eyes when an e-biker chooses not to compromise his bike's virtues as a bicycle in the course of electrifying it. Those who prefer feeble little unlicensed motorcycles will surely disagree with me.

 

[knut7]

If you don't fit the wheel-speed sensor, you might find that the controller goes to sleep after 5 minutes or so.
(...)
IIUC you have the S06P controller (no hall wires) and the 201 rpm Q100. Can you confirm this, and confirm that it works at speed with no syncing problems. My S06P wouldn't work with the 328 rpm Q100.

Hey, thanks for chiming in. The display is actually showing speed, without the magnet, for some reason! It reaches 16km/h, seems it displays mph even though it says km/h. Just had a test ride using GPS tracker, the speed readings wasn't too bad interpreted as mph. And the display doesn't shut down.

Yeah, it's the S06P integrated version with the Q100 36V 201rpm. As far as I can tell there's nothing wrong, but I've got nothing to compare it against. How do I determine if I have syncing problems?

I'm not sure about the battery being upside down. It's designed so that water runs down the back and through the controller compartment. I can't see that being a problem though. The battery itself is not waterproof. There's lots of places water gets in. They forget to put the O rings in the joints the top and bottom. The latch has a hole in it, and the battery indicator LED windows are not glued (loose). If you want to use it in rhe rain, you should open it up to seal it with silicone, or make a cover for it like a rain-coat.

Didn't realize it was that big a job to waterproof it. Mounting it upside down didn't really complicate the waterproofing then I'll have to keep riding when the weather is fine for the time beeing. Some sort of rain coat seems to be the easiest solution.

The pedal sensor will make the bike much nicer to ride. If you need any help to install it, please ask. I would upgrade to a 44T Shimano M590 crank, which makes installation of PAS dead easy. 40T is too low for an electric bike.

Yeah, after the test ride today I think 1x9 will be fine, that will hopefully make the PAS install easy. Think I'll try with the SLX crank that's already there using only the 42t ring. I might move it to where the 32t ring sits now.

I agree with Motomech. The motor isn't into the drop-outs deep enough. If you don't want to file them deeper, you need at least one torque arm mounted like this:

The wheel axle didn't seem to be properly installed to the hub, the flat sides on the left side bolt isn't completely level with the right side, making it a bit of pain sliding into the dropouts. It sits deeper in the dropouts now than on the photo. I ordered a torque arm, will have a look at the dropouts and check for wear before deciding what to do with the torque arm.

 

[knut7]

It's a tasteful thing in my eyes when an e-biker chooses not to compromise his bike's virtues as a bicycle in the course of electrifying it. Those who prefer feeble little unlicensed motorcycles will surely disagree with me.

Yeah, I've been riding both road and mtb for almost 10 years now. I wanted my ebike to look and ride like a regular bike as much as possible.

 

[motomech]

If you don't fit the wheel-speed sensor, you might find that the controller goes to sleep after 5 minutes or so.
(...)
IIUC you have the S06P controller (no hall wires) and the 201 rpm Q100. Can you confirm this, and confirm that it works at speed with no syncing problems. My S06P wouldn't work with the 328 rpm Q100.

Hey, thanks for chiming in. The display is actually showing speed, without the magnet, for some reason! It reaches 16km/h, seems it displays mph even though it says km/h. Just had a test ride using GPS tracker, the speed readings wasn't too bad interpreted as mph. And the display doesn't shut down.

Yeah, it's the S06P integrated version with the Q100 36V 201rpm. As far as I can tell there's nothing wrong, but I've got nothing to compare it against. How do I determine if I have syncing problems?

I'm not sure about the battery being upside down. It's designed so that water runs down the back and through the controller compartment. I can't see that being a problem though. The battery itself is not waterproof. There's lots of places water gets in. They forget to put the O rings in the joints the top and bottom. The latch has a hole in it, and the battery indicator LED windows are not glued (loose). If you want to use it in rhe rain, you should open it up to seal it with silicone, or make a cover for it like a rain-coat.

Didn't realize it was that big a job to waterproof it. Mounting it upside down didn't really complicate the waterproofing then I'll have to keep riding when the weather is fine for the time beeing. Some sort of rain coat seems to be the easiest solution.

The pedal sensor will make the bike much nicer to ride. If you need any help to install it, please ask. I would upgrade to a 44T Shimano M590 crank, which makes installation of PAS dead easy. 40T is too low for an electric bike.

Yeah, after the test ride today I think 1x9 will be fine, that will hopefully make the PAS install easy. Think I'll try with the SLX crank that's already there using only the 42t ring. I might move it to where the 32t ring sits now.

I agree with Motomech. The motor isn't into the drop-outs deep enough. If you don't want to file them deeper, you need at least one torque arm mounted like this:

The wheel axle didn't seem to be properly installed to the hub, the flat sides on the left side bolt isn't completely level with the right side, making it a bit of pain sliding into the dropouts. It sits deeper in the dropouts now than on the photo. I ordered a torque arm, will have a look at the dropouts and check for wear before deciding what to do with the torque arm.

The axle flats on the install I'm doing now is the same way. I'm not sure if It's the flats on the axle that are off or if it's the drop=outs that are not perfectly aligned.
It is possible the electrical system can never be totally water-proof. D8veh recommends using a large poncho to cover the bike like they do in Asia.

 

[knut7]

I just had a closer look at the dropouts, the axle does go all the way in, but the washer tab still does not enter the dropout slot, as some of you mentioned, the dropouts aren't long/deep enough. There isn't much wear, but I guess I'll have to install the torque arm just to be on the safe side.

I've been thinking about making a poncho/raincoat for the battery and how to make a waterproof entry for the wires, got a few ideas but I'd like to hear if others got an easy and clever solution.

 

[knut7]

IIUC you have the S06P controller (no hall wires) and the 201 rpm Q100. Can you confirm this, and confirm that it works at speed with no syncing problems. My S06P wouldn't work with the 328

I've noticed a few "brrp, brrp" sounds, it happens when I'm rolling slowly and apply a tiny bit of throttle. If I release and apply Max throttle it Works fine agian. Is This a sync problem?

And the speed reading seems to come from the motor. It only shows speed when the trottle is engaged, when coasting along w/o throttle it reads 0.

 

[knut7]

I've been using my bike a fair bit, had a run in an mtb park and pulled kiddietrailer. It's been working fine, nice ammount of torque and decent battery life. I've got the 201rpm engine, if the 260rpm motor means shorter battery life and/or less torque then I made the right choice.

But all is not well, I believe the sensorless S06P might be the wrong controller. There's always been a "beeerrrr" noise when accelerating, and there's vibration that seems to come from the controller. This seems to have become worse lately. If I pull a heavy load up a steep hill then there's lots of noise until I drop to about 6km/h, then it's pretty quiet, when it drops to high 4s the noise is back. Sounds like the controller is to blame?

I've got the KU65, but the sockets isn't matching half of my equipment, so I'm considering ordering an S06S bottle mount style. I've got no problems fitting the connectors inside, guess I'll find room for the Halls as well.

But there's more noise. I thought my rear disc brake/rotor was rubbing, but it turns out the noise comes from the motor/hub. It's there when coasting, and holding the wheel in my hand I think the freewheel don't run as easily as it used to. Could it be I've damaged the motor? Or does it just need some servicing/lube? I'm ordering the S06S soon, could throw in a new motor if necessary.

 

[bikeonfire]

knut7,

I'm looking to do a similar build on a rigid framed mtb. I'm trying to decide between the 201 rpm and the 328 rpm Q100CST, which I understand is the same as the Q100 except for the freehub. I weight 150 lbs (about 75kg) and am an ex courier. Can't cruise at 55 km/h anymore but I'm still fit. I like your build style.

You say the torque is good. Do you feel that you could have gotten away with less torque in trade for a higher top speed? What kind of speeds are you getting on the flat, up a 5%, 10% grade? Do you end up pedaling past what the motor can supply? If so, at what speeds on the flat is that happening?

I'll be going with an 11t - 46t setup. I understand yours is 11 - 44, if I remember correctly? So quite similar.

 

[tahustvedt]

That seat sure is high, is the bike that small for you? Well, you will probably start wishing for rear suspension soon anyhow.

The bars are arranged slightly below seat level, which is normal for a pedal cycle ridden by a fit experienced rider. That arrangement also mitigates any "need" for rear suspension, which really only comes into its own when the rider sits upright in a position that makes it difficult to stand up on the pedals as necessary.

Around town here, I see e-bikers almost without exception using riding positions that impair their ability to pedal effectively-- which not coincidentally they are almost never doing.

It's worth pointing out that road racing cyclists go faster than most of us with only as much suspension as their 23mm tires provide. A fat tire bike on pavement or groomed trails needs suspension like it needs an onboard nuclear reactor. In either case, it's a needlessly complex and heavy enhancement that does nothing for the basic function of the bike.

It's a tasteful thing in my eyes when an e-biker chooses not to compromise his bike's virtues as a bicycle in the course of electrifying it. Those who prefer feeble little unlicensed motorcycles will surely disagree with me.

You should see the pavement on norwegian bike-/multi use trails. They can be really horrible because they are not maintained for over twenty years after they are made, and the wear is high because of the harsh winter, and being dug up and patched improperly during pipe/cable work. Winters wreak havoc because they save money by doing improper ground work. My ride to work has deep slots in the pavement every fifteen meters or so, long cracks wide enough to trap wheels and lots of holes. I have sprained my wrists at 25 km/h with 35 mm soft tires on my cyclo cross a couple of times. It's hard to explain, but it's really uncomfortable. Suspension is a great benefit here. My full sus mtb is the only bike that's really suitable.

Also, even a fatbike can benefit from suspension, because there is no damping in the tires. They mostly just work as springs, so are very bouncy.

 

[knut7]

Just had another ride and paid attention to the rear wheel, the wheel stops much quicker now than it used to. Just like a medium case of rubbing disc brake rotor, and the sound is the same. Is it possible the controller has killed the motor? I think I'll throw in another Q100 201rpm engine along with the new controller.

knut7,

I'm looking to do a similar build on a rigid framed mtb. I'm trying to decide between the 201 rpm and the 328 rpm Q100CST, which I understand is the same as the Q100 except for the freehub. I weight 150 lbs (about 75kg) and am an ex courier. Can't cruise at 55 km/h anymore but I'm still fit. I like your build style.

You say the torque is good. Do you feel that you could have gotten away with less torque in trade for a higher top speed? What kind of speeds are you getting on the flat, up a 5%, 10% grade? Do you end up pedaling past what the motor can supply? If so, at what speeds on the flat is that happening?

I'll be going with an 11t - 46t setup. I understand yours is 11 - 44, if I remember correctly? So quite similar.

I used to be a reasonably fit rider, but due to health issues both my form and ambitions are quite reduced this season and probably the next one too. I'm quite happy rolling around at 25kph atm and I don't pedal much, and I prefer torque and range to speed. I haven't any reliable info on speed vs hill grade, but the climbs up to my house is 15*+, and if I come in to the climb at max speed then I probably don't drop much below 10kph. I weigh a little bit below 70kg.

If I had been in my normal form, I might not have seen the need for a torquey ebike that cuts at 25kph and I would be willing to assist the engine a lot more. In that case the 328rpm engine would be more interesting, down side is there may not be much gain in the climbs, having to carry all those extra kgs up hill. My experience is limited to 25kph bikes (201rpm 26"), but I assume the Q100H 260rpm could be ideal to make a quick commuter. No CST option for this engine, but going 9sp wasn't a problem for me, the 9sp freewheel works fine.

I've got a 42t chain ring, 42-13 gives me a nice and relatively low cadence at top speed. My 42t ring is dented, so I'm actually considering throwing on a 40/30/24 crank, and replace the 24t with the PAS ring. I've been testing a bit and 40-11 should be okay, when I hit the trails I need lower gears.

You should see the pavement on norwegian bike-/multi use trails. They can be really horrible because they are not maintained for over twenty years after they are made, and the wear is high because of the harsh winter, and being dug up and patched improperly during pipe/cable work. Winters wreak havoc because they save money by doing improper ground work. My ride to work has deep slots in the pavement every fifteen meters or so, long cracks wide enough to trap wheels and lots of holes. I have sprained my wrists at 25 km/h with 35 mm soft tires on my cyclo cross a couple of times. It's hard to explain, but it's really uncomfortable. Suspension is a great benefit here. My full sus mtb is the only bike that's really suitable.

Also, even a fatbike can benefit from suspension, because there is no damping in the tires. They mostly just work as springs, so are very bouncy.

I'm running 2.2" tires, I rarely have to lift my butt off the seat around here, but on the trails I really miss rear suspension. Gotta ride slow to avoid shaking the eGear to pieces.

 

[knut7]

Oh well, got tired of waiting to hear if anyone though the motor was damaged. Ordered the Q100H 201rpm(!) along with the S06S.

 

[bikeonfire]

Thank you, you clinched my decision to go with a bafang bpm cassette at 270rpm. It's a bigger and more expensive motor than I wanted but it looks like it solves the issues with the two different Q100 hubs. Ultimately I'll go for a bbs02 but I'm concerned about reliability.

Good luck with your bike.

 

[Paderolis]

Just had another ride and paid attention to the rear wheel, the wheel stops much quicker now than it used to. Just like a medium case of rubbing disc brake rotor, and the sound is the same. Is it possible the controller has killed the motor? I think I'll throw in another Q100 201rpm engine along with the new controller.

knut7,

I'm looking to do a similar build on a rigid framed mtb. I'm trying to decide between the 201 rpm and the 328 rpm Q100CST, which I understand is the same as the Q100 except for the freehub. I weight 150 lbs (about 75kg) and am an ex courier. Can't cruise at 55 km/h anymore but I'm still fit. I like your build style.

You say the torque is good. Do you feel that you could have gotten away with less torque in trade for a higher top speed? What kind of speeds are you getting on the flat, up a 5%, 10% grade? Do you end up pedaling past what the motor can supply? If so, at what speeds on the flat is that happening?

I'll be going with an 11t - 46t setup. I understand yours is 11 - 44, if I remember correctly? So quite similar.

I used to be a reasonably fit rider, but due to health issues both my form and ambitions are quite reduced this season and probably the next one too. I'm quite happy rolling around at 25kph atm and I don't pedal much, and I prefer torque and range to speed. I haven't any reliable info on speed vs hill grade, but the climbs up to my house is 15*+, and if I come in to the climb at max speed then I probably don't drop much below 10kph. I weigh a little bit below 70kg.

If I had been in my normal form, I might not have seen the need for a torquey ebike that cuts at 25kph and I would be willing to assist the engine a lot more. In that case the 328rpm engine would be more interesting, down side is there may not be much gain in the climbs, having to carry all those extra kgs up hill. My experience is limited to 25kph bikes (201rpm 26"), but I assume the Q100H 260rpm could be ideal to make a quick commuter. No CST option for this engine, but going 9sp wasn't a problem for me, the 9sp freewheel works fine.

I've got a 42t chain ring, 42-13 gives me a nice and relatively low cadence at top speed. My 42t ring is dented, so I'm actually considering throwing on a 40/30/24 crank, and replace the 24t with the PAS ring. I've been testing a bit and 40-11 should be okay, when I hit the trails I need lower gears.

You should see the pavement on norwegian bike-/multi use trails. They can be really horrible because they are not maintained for over twenty years after they are made, and the wear is high because of the harsh winter, and being dug up and patched improperly during pipe/cable work. Winters wreak havoc because they save money by doing improper ground work. My ride to work has deep slots in the pavement every fifteen meters or so, long cracks wide enough to trap wheels and lots of holes. I have sprained my wrists at 25 km/h with 35 mm soft tires on my cyclo cross a couple of times. It's hard to explain, but it's really uncomfortable. Suspension is a great benefit here. My full sus mtb is the only bike that's really suitable.

Also, even a fatbike can benefit from suspension, because there is no damping in the tires. They mostly just work as springs, so are very bouncy.

I'm running 2.2" tires, I rarely have to lift my butt off the seat around here, but on the trails I really miss rear suspension. Gotta ride slow to avoid shaking the eGear to pieces.

You could also install the PAS on the left side, that's what I did. My crank is a one piece riveted setup so removing individual rings wasn't an option. I have a 48 teeth large gear on the crank and it is too small now for downhill speed, I just ordered a new 3 cog crank with a 52 teeth big gear. I agree you will like the PAS, I have the same display with my kit. In fact I disabled the throttle and use it as a pedal assist only setup.

 

[knut7]

You could also install the PAS on the left side, that's what I did. My crank is a one piece riveted setup so removing individual rings wasn't an option. I have a 48 teeth large gear on the crank and it is too small now for downhill speed, I just ordered a new 3 cog crank with a 52 teeth big gear. I agree you will like the PAS, I have the same display with my kit. In fact I disabled the throttle and use it as a pedal assist only setup.

PAS was installed yesterday evening, will have a proper test ride today. Of course it didn't work the first time, not until I pedaled backwards, so I had to turn the PAS sensor around Initial impression is it takes time to engage, need to pedal a bit before the motor kicks in.

The Giant frame uses press fit BB bearings, so there's absolutely no space for the PAS disc on the left side. I ended up putting it on the right side. Since there is no space between the frame's bottom bracket house and the crank arms, I had to slide the PAS disc over the BB house. I filed and cut the PAS disc so all that remains is the 5 poles and just the outside ring they sit in. That gave me like 2mm clearance to the BB house. The small chain ring had to go and the PAS disc sits in that place. 4 small holes were drilled in the PAS disc and it was attached to the crank with that plastic coated thin steel wire that comes with all sorts of cables/wiring when it's new. If you think that sounds bad, then you don't wanna know how the PAS sensor was attached It's attached with tape! That's a very temporary solution, just to check if I want PAS on my bike. Will have to come up with a better solution if I decide to keep it.




Edit: Hopefully the new and better solution will do, it's tec7 glue. The temporary install did a good job holding the pieces together for the tec7.

 

[d8veh]

Sorry I missed your last few posts. A couple of points:

You need a separate wheel-speed sensor for the S-series controllers to show the speed correctly in the display. If you have fitted the speed sensor, you have to change parameter P2 to zero in the LCD settings to use it. If you don't have the wheel-speed sensor, add one to your order ASAP.

I can't think what the rubbing sound is in your motor if it does it when no power is applied. I've never heard of that, so it must be something in your installation. You must have a look to see what's wrong.

Rubbing feeling, juddering, jumping etc from the motor under power is either a connection problem or sync problem. These motors don't like to run sensorless, which would account for your low-speed problems. It should be better with the sensored sine-wave controller, but I'd be tempted to use the external type that fits in a box rather than the battery ones. BMSB do a nice box to mount it in although it's a tight squeeze to get the connectors in.