Henry111's free tech support thread

Thanks spinningmanet. Congratulations: You are the only one who gave me an answer without going off topic or offering a long-winded expression of their knowledge or lack there of. After which, they still not answer the question. Oh well! I really didn't expect much else. My personal experience says number One is the BMS.
 
If you want the truth, in answer to a "survey" question, then don't limit what people can tell you. ;)

If you want to troubleshoot a battery problem you actually have (which is what it sounds like you're trying to do based on the post quoted below), you can't ask a question like the OP of this thread. You have to post the exact situation, details of battery, pictures of it, etc etc just like anyone else that wants help, and not be secretive about it. :(


Henry111 said:
I guess I will just have to rephrase the question.
Assumptions:
No user error.
No charger error.
No mistreatment of the battery.
Battery is NOT old.
Now would folks please simply tell me (vote) in their opinion, what is the most prevalent problem found lithium batteries. Since I have listed only five items (words), please answer with only five words and please skip the technical explanations and discussion of battery and cell types, or such other. Just simply list the items in problem order. PLEASE!
BMS?
Bad cells?
Short?
Loose connection inside the battery.
Other?
 
5 words, here goes.

UN 3835 certification. no problems.
 
Now the rest. :roll:

Seriously, the UN 3835 cert makes two things happen. One is so few returns, even with a year warranty, that it's not impacting E bike kits bottom line much. The other is we can legally ship the thing to them. But can't ship back, unless it's still good.

Since the battery known to have a problem is now illegal to ship, we really never know what the damn problem was. Bike shop techs can't fix em, even if it was a simple bms replacement. The defect battery is disposed of by the shop or by the customer, and a replacement sent.

More simple problems, we send them a part. A new end cap with the switch can fix a few that just have a bum switch. New chargers get sent.

If the customer can hand deliver a battery to us, then we can fix a bad bms. But again, few problems, and when they do happen, usually they are too far to drive the battery back to us.
 
Blueshift said:
Batteries are still too hobbyist leaning. We need more stable batteries that work for a good long time (more cycles) and that if something should fail, I get it repaired somewhere. Batteries are still inferior because sometimes u need a voltage-meter, take the whole thing apart, and have some know-how to work on them.

Buy a competently built battery composed of high quality, OEM-direct 18650s, with a high quality BMS on it, and you won't have to mess with them.

Yes, it costs more. No, you don't have to mess with it, pretty much ever. There are quite a few reliable battery options out there, it's just that the vast majority of people on ES don't seem to be willing to pay the cost for them. I remain perpetually amazed how many people insist on turning junked laptop batteries into something to power an ebike, and how popular the Hobby King fireballs are, even despite their known problems with long term reliability.

You want to see how to do a pack right? Go look at what BionX is doing. I'm a bit annoyed by their proprietary nature (though I make money from rebuilding them), but they do packs right, and they've shown some nice improvements over time with the pack and BMS design. The older packs had a dead-reliable BMS that only had to do bulk voltage sensing because the cells stayed balanced (Sony US18650s - spinel LiMn, see other threads here for their behavior, and I can confirm that the packs I receive are balanced to within 0.01v from highest cell to lowest cell). Most of my interactions with those are either packs that were left to sit off charge for 1-1.5 years and are stone dead, or ones that work just fine, but after 6-8 years of use, have lost enough capacity to annoy their owner.

Their newer packs include a "deep sleep" mode that will entirely cut the BMS off from the pack at a certain state of charge (plug the charger in to recover), which helps with long term storage, and very advanced diagnostics available over the Canbus interface.

My Ebike, no I am not going to manipulate the transducer to make the flux capacitor operate at a .083679084 flatulence level.

I want to be a consumer not a technician.

Then pay more money and buy a higher quality pack.

I paid $600 about 3.5 years ago for a BatterySpace 13.3ah LiFePO4 pack for my bikes. I've literally done nothing but plug it in to charge and ride since I bought it. Zero problems. Is it expensive? Sure, but it works and it's been a daily commuter pack for it's entire life (until about 3 months ago when I moved and no longer have a commute).

Yes, if you focus on cheapness over everything, you'll have assorted issues with your packs. If you focus on quality, they will overwhelmingly just work.

dogman dan said:
Since the battery known to have a problem is now illegal to ship, we really never know what the damn problem was. Bike shop techs can't fix em, even if it was a simple bms replacement. The defect battery is disposed of by the shop or by the customer, and a replacement sent.

Yeah. :( It's sad. Batteries that need a quick touch of an iron being scrapped.

If the customer can hand deliver a battery to us, then we can fix a bad bms. But again, few problems, and when they do happen, usually they are too far to drive the battery back to us.

Per my understanding of 49CFR, it's only bad cells that can't be shipped. A battery with a bad BMS should be entirely legal to ship, if you can determine that.
 
Henry111 said:
amberwolf, you have made an incorrect assumption. And I do mean assumption.
I'm not sure which assumption you're referring to, but it was just a guess, and I apologize for whichever one it was. (it would help if you said which assumption is wrong).

It's just hard to post accurate replies when all the information isn't available.

I do recommend that you (and everyone asking a question) post the complete situation and details of a problem or question, so that those replying can accurately and completely answer and help.

That's all I'm trying to do--get you (and others) the help they need (which is not always what is asked for).
 
Make a tread with your battery and where you got it. Link. And we can help. I seems you have one word solution for a very complex battery that's giving you problems. Batteries can be straight forward lot's of people can fix. No secrets.
 
The catch 22 with a problem battery, is nobody can prove the cells are ok. The customer only knows it doesn't take him very far. This does not bother those who ship uncertified batteries illegally to all customers. A customer could choose to ship a battery back, but we are not telling him to do it. Don't sell a cheap ass battery is the key to making a profit.

It's a bit like the early days of automobiles. You bought gas at the feed store, and might have a broken part welded back by a blacksmith. You were not able to hit a service center for repairs.

Someday, you will be able to walk into a bike shop in nearly any town, and a guy there will be able to do the simple fixes, replace a bum bms, fix a loose wire. I could be dead by then though. Right now we do our best to talk bike techs through the simple troubleshoots on kits, how to figure out which part to replace. But we don't' tell them to take apart lithium batteries yet.
 
I've been running my motor off of an Xtreme 600B scooter at 72v (84V hot of the charger} for about 9000 miles of brutal flogging, and it still runs like a champ. Its outlasted 4 tires and 3 different frames, but finally is matched to a frame I cant break..

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Voltron said:
I've been running my motor off of an Xtreme 600B scooter at 72v (84V hot of the charger} for about 9000 miles of brutal flogging, and it still runs like a champ. Its outlasted 4 tires and 3 different frames, but finally is matched to a frame I cant break..

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Thanks for that info Voltron.
Sounds like you know about these motors and how to get more out of them. Sure would appreciate your advice on the following:
First here is a photo of the X-treme XB 504. This 504 is only 500Watt, 48V/12Ah, but I have the 600 Watt X-treme Cabo coming (48V/20Ah) Monday, 6/27.
This 504 is ok for scooting around town and I like it, but it don't climb hills for beans. And frankly, I don't expect much more from the 600 Cabo. Note: In the photo you can see the 48V SLAs hanging down under the frame just ahead of the kickstand.
As I said, I am ok with the speed, but I want more hill climbing power. How can get more, if possible?
I'm ok with switching out the SLAs for lithium.. Here also is a picture of the lithium batteries that I have on hand, 36V/14Ah and 48V/14Ah. Looks like you have something similar strapped under your bike??? I could possibly open the cases and re-arrange the cells to fit into the Cabo.
I could also remove that rear storage box and mount a battery there the same way I mount them on standard e-bikes (see battery photo).
I am concerned that if I up the voltage to over 48 volts it might hurt the motor. What say you?
Any suggestion you, or anybody on the site have, will certainly be appreciate.
 

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It's all the controller.. I'm using an aftermarket generic one. If you go to 60v on the stock controller it will prob pop. Then if it doesn't, it will still only flow but so many amps to the motor. The other thing you will be fighting is the weight... mine's not in a scooter anymore, so accelerates quickly, and spends little time in the low speed, high load zone. If you do a controller, then you'll have to look at upsizing the wires to the motor so they don't melt, and higher amp connectors, etc. Then the heavy draw on the batteries starts unbalancing then, so get ready for being the human BMS for keeping them evened out. It's a whole chain of events once you start running higher power..... but so worth it.

Re. the batteries, it's actually 2 36v 15ah in series, then 2 of the now 72v blocks paralleled for 30ah. The system will run on one block, but the draw is high enough that it noticeably heated up the cells without the paralleling to share the load. Part of that chain of events thing again. Best of luck, but whatever you do, stop a lot to do heat checks as you're working the bugs out! I originally ran it in a different frame with a 72v SLA pack... soooo heavy. But as long as you were willing to even out the 6 batteries all the time, it worked pretty good for how cheap it was. But once you go lithium you'll never look back.
 
Thanks for that info Voltron.
I think before in get involved in the complications of up-volting the system I will dump the 48V SLAs and install 48V lithiums. In addition the the higher battery quality, it will also save me about 25lbs. I'll see how that goes and then maybe I will go on from there. I see we are both in California. I am in Long Beach.
 
If you can get a measurement of how many amps its pulling at peak, that will be a good guide for making sure the new batteries can handle the load. do you understand about C rate and that sort of thing?
 
I have an electric moped.
It has a 48V SLA battery.
I want to drop in a 48V lithium and be able to switch off between the SLA and the Lithium as one or the other runs down--the way one might switch between gas tanks in an airplane, turn one off, turn the other on.
Question:
Can someone recommend a switch that would permit me to run these two batteries through it so as to switch back and fourth between the two batteries--turning one off while turning the other on? Marine type switches are all so large; anything smaller?
 
Agreed, ditch the SLA and fill the space w/ Lithium and be a much happier camper.
 
You may ditch the lead when you see how far the lithium can take you.

But big honking switches are expensive, so the best approach is to just stop for 60 seconds, unplug one, then plug in the other. This does require you to do a bit of re wiring, just to make that plug conveniently accessible.
 
dogman dan said:
You may ditch the lead when you see how far the lithium can take you.

But big honking switches are expensive, so the best approach is to just stop for 60 seconds, unplug one, then plug in the other. This does require you to do a bit of re wiring, just to make that plug conveniently accessible.

Thanks dogman. That is my plan--such switch between them via the power pole connectors.Wiring and mounting batteries in electric moped is more complicated than wiring a standard electric bike, so I'm not yet ready to pull out the SLAs and weld up a new mount. or mounts, for lithiums. But farther down the road? Yes, I will do that. At which time I will install two 48V Lithiums and switch off between them as you suggest. On my standard electric bikes, I often velcro cord one lithium above the other (on the rear rack) and switch between them. After all, two 48V lithiums weigh less than one 36V SLA.
 
I have always done front motor mounts, and, of course, installed torque arms.
But a front motor makes shipping difficult, so I am considering a rear mount.
How necessary is a torque arm on a rear mount? Note that all my motors are all 750 watters with 36V batteries.
 
I would definitely use at least one. Two may seem like overkill on a low powered system, but....they damn near last forever. If you spin an axle and rip the wires out by the roots, you'd have to disassemble the motor and solder them back together.

What's your time worth?
 
On aluminum dropouts I'd want 2 torque plates, not arms. On steel dropouts I've never used either and never had a problem in 20K miles. I don't put motors on bikes with aluminum dropouts because I won't buy one. BTW, I run both a 1000W and 3000W motor. Both on 88.8V batteries with regen braking.
 
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