johnrobholmes
10 MW
Can't believe I missed this thread! What a nice build, all around! I wonder what else you have in store for us?
my first build, now with a shady m1 pack
- Thread starter gestalt
- Start date
comradegerry
100 W
Gates carbon Drives has spme interesting bike products, one snag being that the belts need to be one of four lenghs from what I can work out and they have no join, making getting them inside the frame a little tricky. Great looking bike, best of luck with the rest of the build. The price list should be accurate, I only recieved it today and am still trying to work out if I can bolt their rear sprockets to an ENO freewheel as part of a drive system.
View attachment _Gates CD pricelist VK 091201.pdf
View attachment forbikemaker_1251480796.pdf
View attachment _Gates CD pricelist VK 091201.pdf
View attachment forbikemaker_1251480796.pdf
JEB
100 W
Hi gestalt; It looks as if it is going to be a great bike- One of my bikes (a tour easy) I added a rear brake like yours (1995 ninga) with out changing the hydrolic system I added a straight pull adapter to use the wire cable of a regular brake bike setup, it works great, only requires a 1 finger pull to engage/stop.
gestalt
10 kW
been getting some work done lately, had both setbacks and steps forward. I've ditched the steel ring as a motor mount, it was just too heavy and thick to weld onto the frame. so what I want to do now is have the motor mounted to a plate that spans four steel tubes perpendicular to the frame. I think the result will be both lighter and more elegant.
then I realized I had set the tubes too far back on the frame, the motor would not be able to be mounted unless I wanted to add almost another foot to the allready stretched frame. so with some burlier tubing I went at it again.
now the motor can be nicely tucked in there behind the seatpost. I'm going to use the 3/8" thick one inch tubing that I was going to build the springer fork out of to build out the new chain stays but what's got me held back right now is the steel plate to make the motor mount out of....argh!
After many setbacks with building that springer fork I came accross a decent double crown down hill fork in the MIT bicycle graveyard. It was missing it's top crown. So I busted it apart so It can be mounted into some super sweet motorcycle crowns that a buddy gave me. I took great care to remove all hardware from the fork tubes.
one problem though, the crowns are meant for much bigger diameter fork tubes. so here was my opportunity to try my hand at the metal lathe for the first time. I turned some ali down and hollowed it out, cut out four rings and cut them into a C shape and wala!!! custom spacers to make the fork tubes fit.
as soon as I turn that steer tube from the original bike setup It should be fairly easy to mount the fork to the frame. I'll have to weld on some disk mounts but that should be fairly easy. If anyone in the NE has some steel plate they could stand to get rid of let me know if you want to work something out.
/progress
//finnaly!
then I realized I had set the tubes too far back on the frame, the motor would not be able to be mounted unless I wanted to add almost another foot to the allready stretched frame. so with some burlier tubing I went at it again.
now the motor can be nicely tucked in there behind the seatpost. I'm going to use the 3/8" thick one inch tubing that I was going to build the springer fork out of to build out the new chain stays but what's got me held back right now is the steel plate to make the motor mount out of....argh!
After many setbacks with building that springer fork I came accross a decent double crown down hill fork in the MIT bicycle graveyard. It was missing it's top crown. So I busted it apart so It can be mounted into some super sweet motorcycle crowns that a buddy gave me. I took great care to remove all hardware from the fork tubes.
one problem though, the crowns are meant for much bigger diameter fork tubes. so here was my opportunity to try my hand at the metal lathe for the first time. I turned some ali down and hollowed it out, cut out four rings and cut them into a C shape and wala!!! custom spacers to make the fork tubes fit.
as soon as I turn that steer tube from the original bike setup It should be fairly easy to mount the fork to the frame. I'll have to weld on some disk mounts but that should be fairly easy. If anyone in the NE has some steel plate they could stand to get rid of let me know if you want to work something out.
/progress
//finnaly!
AussieJester
1 TW
Great to see you progressing along nice job on the spacers too!
KiM
KiM
gestalt
10 kW
thanks Kim! the saying aroung the MITers shop is "make it work" which I have been adopting more and more lately. You know, I was hanging about the shop one night and there was a fellow there who was part of the moped gang they got going on. He checks out my project and he says "hey, have you heard of an australian builder who goes by the name of aussiejester?". Dude, you've got some fame. I think he might know of you through either youtube or some other forum though.
gestalt
10 kW
Oh, and another thing. I'm pretty sure I'm going chain drive as that is something I have the ability to make happen with the funds I have. Unless someone has a way to get a 5:1 ratio cog and pulley for around $100 that can handle the torque this motor is going to put out.
AussieJester
1 TW
gestalt said:
HAHA cool...i am a bit of a slut i do get around a bit
Checkout some go kart suppliers for larger size heavy duty pulley setups if your keen to try that way, i have a go kart rear
here its VERY beefy would stand up to your motor well i think...Failing that they will also have chain setups heavy dt size that
would be suitable, should get out of it under 100 for cogs at least chain might be a bit pricey?
Best of luck
KiM
gestalt
10 kW
I found this one
http://www.bicycle-engines.com/tooth-pully-p-334.html
I also found some 5mm 100tooth ali pulley stock on ebay, but I don't need that much and would be hard pressed to find a use for the remainder
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...ff830af&itemid=280410916498&ff4=263602_263622
but here are the specs on how much torque my motor concievably will put out.
5:1 reduction = 50mph, max torque@wheel approx 75Nm, a forward force of around 23Kg (approx 51lbs)
do you think 5mm will cut it? someone was telling me I should use 14mm pitch.
http://www.bicycle-engines.com/tooth-pully-p-334.html
I also found some 5mm 100tooth ali pulley stock on ebay, but I don't need that much and would be hard pressed to find a use for the remainder
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...ff830af&itemid=280410916498&ff4=263602_263622
but here are the specs on how much torque my motor concievably will put out.
5:1 reduction = 50mph, max torque@wheel approx 75Nm, a forward force of around 23Kg (approx 51lbs)
do you think 5mm will cut it? someone was telling me I should use 14mm pitch.
enoob
1 kW
gestalt said:
Miles said:
nice work man.
loving the motorbike crowns, you may want to consider relief cutting those shim/spacers though to ensure all your clamping force is getting directed to the fork rather than compressing the shim.
cant wait to see how this golden motor does for ya. very similar to what im doing with my stocker but more power. shall be fun to watch
gestalt
10 kW
what do you mean by relief cuts? The spacer is in the a "C" shape, and I made the gap about 5/16", the compression is pretty damn solid but you cant see the cut in the spacer in the pictures I took. I really can't wait to see what the performance is like in comparison to those mars brushless units, did you ever get yours opened up for pictures?
enoob
1 kW
gestalt said:
c shape is what i meant . beauty
have yet to take it to the next step opening the one i have . soon as i have another in hand or have at least ridden the bike ill be more apt to push that task.
your motor is rated amlost double what this one is so it should be fun to see how these work on a "bicycle" :lol:
gestalt
10 kW
my computer has been out of action for a while now and I'm waiting on some deal extreme parts to come in which takes forever from china. Anyways, I was wondering if there was anyone out there who would be willing to go to http://www.gates.com and use thier site to find out what pulley and cogs they would have for me. The calculator on the site is too unwieldy for my iPhone which is my only internets these days. I will be riding my rickshaw for the next ten days strait for the red socks home stay in addition to my two other jobs so when I have a day off in about twoo weeks I should have all the money I need to buy the drive system and 48v of cell-man 20ah! If anyone would be kind enough to find out that gates drive info for me I would be in their debt.
gestalt said:
comradegerry
100 W
Very cool looking bike, hope the info below is of use for you. Look forward to seeing how the belts work for you as I am keen to go that route myself.
Good luck, Gerard
View attachment 2 View attachment 1View attachment forbikemaker_1251480796.pdf
Good luck, Gerard
View attachment 2 View attachment 1View attachment forbikemaker_1251480796.pdf
gestalt
10 kW
comradegerry,
thanks for those, but I think they are more for bicycle i.e. pedal power torque. though I wonder what kind of torque the gates carbon drive belts can handle, you would need a gear reduction but maybe a small outrunner could be used with it.
workathon update, after four strait red socks games I have about $350 saved up and now I go back to working my waiting job before I go to ride for the games for the next four nights. honestly I don't know how I'm even posting this right now I'm so wiped. but that means I'm almost halfway to having my cells paid for and on track.
/progress!
//clinical exhaustion!
thanks for those, but I think they are more for bicycle i.e. pedal power torque. though I wonder what kind of torque the gates carbon drive belts can handle, you would need a gear reduction but maybe a small outrunner could be used with it.
workathon update, after four strait red socks games I have about $350 saved up and now I go back to working my waiting job before I go to ride for the games for the next four nights. honestly I don't know how I'm even posting this right now I'm so wiped. but that means I'm almost halfway to having my cells paid for and on track.
/progress!
//clinical exhaustion!
enoob
1 kW
gestalt said:
lol. im starting to think those two go hand in hand with custom ebike building .
gestalt
10 kW
$476 together after getting hit with some bills, called out of todays game cause I needed a day off after two weeks. one more game should get me to six hundred, will have to wait a week till the next ten game home stand to get the rest. whadayall think, should I go with an assembled pack from ol cell-man or save about a bill and try and do it myself? I think there would be a high probability of me frocking it up and having to buy more cells. might be a better idea to do my pack assembly learning on the cheaper lipo packs that I want to use for my next project, the electric wheelman/bushpig thing.
gestalt
10 kW
oh geez, I just checked and cell-man is out! I really had my heart set on using those prismatics. Maybe I'll have to use lipo for now and upgrade later. how much do you think it will cost for a lipo pack that can handle 300a bursts at 48v?
johnrobholmes
10 MW
About $200 if the cells were in stock at HC. $400 for proper range. Plus shipping.
gestalt
10 kW
up to $650 now!
Hey thanks JRH, what packs should I be looking for? My lipo knowlege needs some beefing up, but I suppose I can do that while the packs are in the mail right. I want to have at least a twenty mile range, is that the $400 option, like a 20 ah pack? I will start ordering tommorow if possible, some cellog8's up in there as well.
Hey thanks JRH, what packs should I be looking for? My lipo knowlege needs some beefing up, but I suppose I can do that while the packs are in the mail right. I want to have at least a twenty mile range, is that the $400 option, like a 20 ah pack? I will start ordering tommorow if possible, some cellog8's up in there as well.
gestalt
10 kW
Okay, beating my brain up with the belt drive issues again, in addition to trying to figure out how to charge and balance lipo properly. aussiejester has a pretty snazzy method for wiring his pack up, seems to have pretty bulletproof connections too. I'll be depositing my paycheck and my rickshaw winnings tomorrow and will probably be jumping off the lipo cliff sometime in eastcoast pm so if any of you guys have some final advice, cautions or directions now is the time to shout 'em.
also I read in some machinist forum about this company http://www.hmmanufacturing.com/index.htm that they have some good deals on pulley stock and since my setup will need the pulley to mount to either a freewheel thread or six hole disk mount I will need to do that myself anyways. makes sense to work from stock instead of trying to get a pulley designed to mount to something else work on my bicycle wheel. then some waterjet in some lightning shaped lightening holes to appease the lightening god of down under. One problem is that I cant seem to figure out what the minimum tooth count would be for a drive cog using the 8mm pitch belt and how wide would the belt be, or what would be the best belt width for finding a wide range of belts so that getting the right length will be easier.
also I read in some machinist forum about this company http://www.hmmanufacturing.com/index.htm that they have some good deals on pulley stock and since my setup will need the pulley to mount to either a freewheel thread or six hole disk mount I will need to do that myself anyways. makes sense to work from stock instead of trying to get a pulley designed to mount to something else work on my bicycle wheel. then some waterjet in some lightning shaped lightening holes to appease the lightening god of down under. One problem is that I cant seem to figure out what the minimum tooth count would be for a drive cog using the 8mm pitch belt and how wide would the belt be, or what would be the best belt width for finding a wide range of belts so that getting the right length will be easier.
22t is the smallest recommended for Gates PowerGrip belts and the smallest size you'll find stocked. I've had 16t pulleys made. 14t is probably the absolute limit, and the smallest you can get pulley stock for, I think. HTD and GT are the same tooth profile for 8mm pitch. You can get the standard lengths of belt cut to any width you like.............. To find the smallest pulley that can handle the torque you have to do the calculations or use one of the programs that does it for you, or look at the tables in the literature, such as the HTD bible.
gestalt
10 kW
CURSES!!!
hobbycity had the packs I needed in stock yesterday and after depositing my $ in my bank account today I find them sold out :? I wonder how often HC gets new inventory in.
Anyone have a 48v lipo pack they want to sell?
hobbycity had the packs I needed in stock yesterday and after depositing my $ in my bank account today I find them sold out :? I wonder how often HC gets new inventory in.
Anyone have a 48v lipo pack they want to sell?
bzhwindtalker
100 kW
I think cell-man have some 15ah left!
