NEWBIE, Land rover electric bike project

[okmatey]

I would just like to say how thrilled and excited I am to be part of this forum once again,
I have just acquired a G4 challenge landrover duel motor ebike that needs a lot of tlc.
I'm interested in checking the wheel motors, controller, and battery if needs be,picture attached,would love to here what you think,can't wait to get my hands dirty

 

[amberwolf]

I am to be part of this forum once again,

Once again?

 

[okmatey]

Hi yes, I can't quit remember what my account details was,I did try to contact an administrator regarding this but don't think I could prove any details, I now have a new phone number and email address, the project I was working on several years ago was a currie electric motor ebike build, I remember also having communication to a guy that made controllers think it was a guy call Lyen.
Hope that helps

 

[okmatey]

Can any one help with the identification of my controller battery and front and rear motors please

 

[okmatey]

Hope some one can help

 

[fill]

One of the motors is a 48v 350w motor,the controller is a pretty generic looking 36/48v 35amp scooter controller ( no config interface).
based simply on the understanding that a budget 350w ebike would probably ship with a 17a controller, Both motors are probably 350w.. since 2 motors that individually could drain 17a each, when combined could drain 34a ... And its probably harder to match 2 different sized motors to run at the same optimal speeds.

Hard to credit its a genuine Land rover product tho..

 

[fill]

So the battery will be a 48v battery requiring a 54.6v charger to fully charge, and optimally should have a drain capacity grater than the expected peak drain of 35a. This should be clearly marked on a label on the battery.

 

[Hillhater]

Obviously not an original commercial ebike,…a “diy build” of unknown specification !
Land Rover (JLR) never even made pedal bikes, let alone ebikes.….
….and even if they had, their reputation with EVs and Hybrids is not one to covert !
Note… The “LR G4 Challenge” organisers did licience the naming rights to several bike manufacturers as part of a promotion and equipmeent supply deal..
EG

 

[fill]

Obviously not an original commercial ebike,…a “diy build” of unknown specification !
Land Rover (JLR) never even made pedal bikes, let alone ebikes.….
….and even if they had, their reputation with EVs and Hybrids is not one to covert !

`
Yeah, cheers i took a 2nd look at the primary pic in the op, no way is that sketchy stencil paint job kosher..
However its still enough to possibly crinkle the waxed jacket of a militant young farmer if parked near the wrong country pub.
.

 

[okmatey]

So the battery will be a 48v battery requiring a 54.6v charger to fully charge, and optimally should have a drain capacity grater than the expected peak drain of 35a. This should be clearly marked on a label on the battery.

Thank you so much that's really helpful, there are no markings on the battery box,would I need to strip the shell off to make sure it's the correct voltage ?

 

[okmatey]

`
Yeah, cheers i took a 2nd look at the primary pic in the op, no way is that sketchy stencil paint job kosher..
However its still enough to possibly crinkle the waxed jacket of a militant young farmer if parked near the wrong country pub.
.

Honestly I'm not that bothered what the stickers say,it will be a really nice ebike by the time I'm finished with it,for £200 it was a bargain

 

[okmatey]

So the battery will be a 48v battery requiring a 54.6v charger to fully charge, and optimally should have a drain capacity grater than the expected peak drain of 35a. This should be clearly marked on a label on the battery.

I would love a kit that has a digital display, would that be possible with the said controller ?

 

[calab]

Until an error code comes up, then your dismayed and uninterested.

Your controller wouldnt work with a display.
Buy a matching controller and display kit with a throttle or go displayless......if you dare!

 

[okmatey]

Until an error code comes up, then your dismayed and uninterested.

Your controller wouldnt work with a display.
Buy a matching controller and display kit with a throttle or go displayless......if you dare!

Thank you, so I can purchase a throttle with small display that will work with my controller ?

 

[999zip999]

Buy a $15 ebike tester it'll test throttle it will test motor it will test controller.

Amazon.com

 

[calab]

KT display kit, a matching pair......never mix and match, unless your in for some deep learning, leading to frustration then uninterest.
Hook it up to your motor, 48v battery means you get a 48v controller or 48v display kit combo.

PSW Power

Aliexpress - These guys are good. One stop shop!

https://evfittinggreentime.aliexpress.com/store/313864?spm=a2g0o.detail.0.0.4f0e6101BHrMtp

I'd suggest you buy a single controller with 3 universal throttles, then go to Hobbyking and buy some xt90 paired with wires already attached. Soldering wire to wire is way easier. THrottle can be hardwired, they're just small wires, battery connectors might need to use the Anti-Spark XT90 paired combo with pig-tails is the term I was searching for. Wires already attached.

Get that going first.

If you have the funds, then go ahead and buy a matching paired kt-dsiplay combo kit and a couple more throttles. I'd do it in different orders, a week or two apart. How much is a cheap 48v controller now, $40-50. You can look for yourself, shipping is the key component, usually a higher shipping price like BMS Battery website.

 

[fill]

To test the battery voltage all you need is a volt meter, EBike batteries should not ever fall below a certain voltage, google will tell you more about that.. something like 2.2v per cell?? and if they do they may need replacing or reconditioning at best, again beyond my limited experience..

So assuming your battery holds a viable voltage the led indicator on its top and a volt meter will tell you exactly what battery voltage classification you have,

Press the battery test button and if 1 or 2 leds light up and you read circa 40v from the battery Its a 48v battery, But if 3-4 leds light up and its over 40v its a 36v battery

Before you buy any new kit and invest more into a bike you may not be able to ride in daylight (Obvious not within UK regs) and forget about 3rd party liability cover. (nagging over,, honest..) pull all that painters tape off the wires and connect anything thats come untwisted. could be as simple as a shorted out brake sensor, something wired up backwards, or a loose connection..

how many wires connect to each motor btw.. this will indicate if your motors have internal hall effect sensors or not, and is what the 'dual mode' on the controller label relates to I think. the 2 modes being for sensor enabled motors or sensor less motors..

If you have determined whats bad? can you describe how you came to the conclusion?

If you want to try and meet the spirit of the uk regs if not the letter (debate on the impossibility of actually meeting the letter of the regs aside) ie restrict the speed and limit assistance you will need a controller with a display interface. and the KT Ketung? brand mentioned above are popular because of the number of display options (single motor usually) and the range of configurable parameters such as letting you apply throttle only when pedaling etc...

Delivered to the UK even ordered direct from china your looking at £70-100 for a single KT ebike controller and display however.
topBikeKit is a chinese seller recommended on uk forums for spares etc.. inc a wide range of KT controllers

If you need a replacement controller i would simply replace like for like tho aftermarket volt meters are a quid or 2 as are basic speedos that run off a coin cell for years. if you feel the need for either. Tho a speedo is just a distraction on a bike as speed limits dont even apply to cycles or 'legal' ebikes, - not motor vehicles.. (blackbelt barrister - youtube) you judge whats a safe speed while cycling..

btw I didnt mean to knock your bike and perhaps the fact 'LandRover its a model name and not Brand should have been obvious.

 

[okmatey]

To test the battery voltage all you need is a volt meter, EBike batteries should not ever fall below a certain voltage, google will tell you more about that.. something like 2.2v per cell?? and if they do they may need replacing or reconditioning at best, again beyond my limited experience..

So assuming your battery holds a viable voltage the led indicator on its top and a volt meter will tell you exactly what battery voltage classification you have,

Press the battery test button and if 1 or 2 leds light up and you read circa 40v from the battery Its a 48v battery, But if 3-4 leds light up and its over 40v its a 36v battery

Before you buy any new kit and invest more into a bike you may not be able to ride in daylight (Obvious not within UK regs) and forget about 3rd party liability cover. (nagging over,, honest..) pull all that painters tape off the wires and connect anything thats come untwisted. could be as simple as a shorted out brake sensor, something wired up backwards, or a loose connection..

how many wires connect to each motor btw.. this will indicate if your motors have internal hall effect sensors or not, and is what the 'dual mode' on the controller label relates to I think. the 2 modes being for sensor enabled motors or sensor less motors..

If you have determined whats bad? can you describe how you came to the conclusion?

If you want to try and meet the spirit of the uk regs if not the letter (debate on the impossibility of actually meeting the letter of the regs aside) ie restrict the speed and limit assistance you will need a controller with a display interface. and the KT Ketung? brand mentioned above are popular because of the number of display options (single motor usually) and the range of configurable parameters such as letting you apply throttle only when pedaling etc...

Delivered to the UK even ordered direct from china your looking at £70-100 for a single KT ebike controller and display however.
topBikeKit is a chinese seller recommended on uk forums for spares etc.. inc a wide range of KT controllers

If you need a replacement controller i would simply replace like for like tho aftermarket volt meters are a quid or 2 as are basic speedos that run off a coin cell for years. if you feel the need for either. Tho a speedo is just a distraction on a bike as speed limits dont even apply to cycles or 'legal' ebikes, - not motor vehicles.. (blackbelt barrister - youtube) you judge whats a safe speed while cycling..

btw I didnt mean to knock your bike and perhaps the fact 'LandRover its a model name and not Brand should have been obvious.

Honestly no offence taken, to be honest I haven't had much time lately but I have been searching for how 1 dual controller connects to 2 motors with no luck as yet,

 

[okmatey]

Hi, I've been looking at many posts and it seems the controllers have different colours cables,I'm a little stumped to say the least, I can identify the main power cables motor phase cables and hall sensor,I'm not sure what the rest are,could any one offer any assistance please

 

[neptronix]

No brand or model information?

 

[okmatey]

Unfortunately not,all I have is the label and the cables

 

[docw009]

I see from your other thread that this controller was with a junker ebike you bought. That bike had two motors, but the pictures only showed a few spokes, Really need to know what kind of motors, Was there a second controller hooked up? Did it have two throttles? Is there a display? Is there a pedal sensor on the pedals or a speed sensor on either wheel?

The easiest way to build a two motor bike, in my opinion having done it this way, is to run the second controller with no display and throttle only. The other controller has throttle and pedal assist. It's possible to run both controllers off one throttle too.

The controller you show has a standard 5 pin display connector, a Hall connector without the sixth white wire for a speed sensor, and two three pin connectors that could be throttle, pedal assist, or speed sensor. Also a pair of two pin connectors, which are probably brakes, The blue wire might be a speed limiter, and that leaves some bare wires. The possible lack of a speed sensor suggests it's a direct drive motor controller.

Without knowing the make of the controller, you can't buy a display because it has to be matched, You could probably power up that controller with a jumper connector instead of a display and run it on throttle only, That would be trial and error. First assumption is that it is a standard display connector. You make a jumper and plug it in. If it works, you will have power on the three pin connectors, Then you have to test the two three pinners to find the throttle connector.

You need to get a meter to tell whether that battery is 48V, 36V or even alive,

 

[okmatey]

That's really great info,thanks so much, so it did have a pedal assist sensor which was shot, also a half twist grip also broken the voltage on the battery measures 32v its not charged so I'm unsure what it would be if it was fully charged , the controller says its a dual controller what does that actually mean ??

 

[docw009]

Dual in this case means 36V and 48V operation,

 

[Chalo]

EDIT:
Throttle and PAS plugs are definitely those things, but which one is which is an open question until you try them. Red is +5V and black is GND in either case, the other color is signal.