Qulbix Raptor ebike + frame kit

To all the Raptor 165 owners, I finally dismantled my Raptor 165 to upgrade to a Q76R.

I've moved over to the Q76R thread
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=74286

Some comparison photos of the Q76 and the Raptor 165.

I still can't believe how much thinner the frame is. The Q76R frame is also lower at the top.

The frame you see in the picture, The Raptor 165 is about 18 lbs (8.16kG) The Q76R is about 10 lbs (4.5kg) including aluminum side covers and shock mount . This is only what is seen in the picture, with no seat or swingarm.

Swingarm weight for the Q76R is 5.1 (2.3kg) lbs and the Raptor 165 is 6.6 lbs (3kg)

Motorcycle seat is about 1 lbs lighter in weight.


The Q76R top of the frame is lower when lining up the bottom brackets and bottom of head tube. The Q76R frame is also lower at the bottom than the raptor 165.



I can't believe I rode around in this wide frame. But it was actually very comfortable with the motorcycle seat and also since I didn't pedal.



You can see the Q76R is lower at the top. May benefit shorter riders.


The Q76R is lower at the bottom. I guess this will lower the center of gravity. I assume it is better to have it lower the the bottom.

 
Offroader said:
To all the Raptor 165 owners, I finally dismantled my Raptor 165 to upgrade to a Q76R.

I've moved over to the Q76R thread
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=74286

Some comparison photos of the Q76 and the Raptor 165.

I still can't believe how much thinner the frame is. The Q76R frame is also lower at the top.

The frame you see in the picture, The Raptor 165 is about 18 lbs (8.16kG) The Q76R is about 10 lbs (4.5kg) including aluminum side covers and shock mount . This is only what is seen in the picture, with no seat or swingarm.

Swingarm weight for the Q76R is 5.1 (2.3kg) lbs and the Raptor 165 is 6.6 lbs (3kg)

Motorcycle seat is about 1 lbs lighter in weight.


The Q76R top of the frame is lower when lining up the bottom brackets and bottom of head tube. The Q76R frame is also lower at the bottom than the raptor 165.



I can't believe I rode around in this wide frame. But it was actually very comfortable with the motorcycle seat and also since I didn't pedal.
[

You can see the Q76R is lower at the top. May benefit shorter riders.
[

The Q76R is lower at the bottom. I guess this will lower the center of gravity. I assume it is better to have it lower the the bottom.



The first pic really explains the difference. Enough said. BTW fuqn Awesome!
 
yep,
i tried that 3 times. never get any answer for months. today i wrote another mail, asking them why they not want my money... :roll:
i also send private message to the qulbix account here in forum. no reply yet.

i thought you guys have another mail or something... thanks for reply!
maybe my mail got lost under all these orders and i hope, one of the qulbix crew will see it here. winkwink :wink: (yes i mean YOU qulbix, shoot me a quick message so i can send some cash to you) :mrgreen:
 
steam25 said:
yep,
i tried that 3 times. never get any answer for months. today i wrote another mail, asking them why they not want my money... :roll:
i also send private message to the qulbix account here in forum. no reply yet.

i thought you guys have another mail or something... thanks for reply!
maybe my mail got lost under all these orders and i hope, one of the qulbix crew will see it here. winkwink :wink: (yes i mean YOU qulbix, shoot me a quick message so i can send some cash to you) :mrgreen:

Just so you know, July and August are the 2 months that most corporations around all of Europe take annual leave for 30 days. I would check on this for Qulbix and see when they will be back.
 
I think qulbix were at the Island of Mann recently, got this information from their facebook.
 
Hey Offroader,

I am in Manhattan this week for work bu might have some time to slip away this afternoon. You gonna be near the city this afternoon or evening? Or maybe I can go your direction. Would be cool to meet up and see your rides!
Give me a shout if you are available.

Cheers,

Jason Sills
512-915-9657
sills.jason@gmail.com
 
Hey guys,

I need to shave down the height of my head tube to 140mm for my new forks since I can't adjust the crowns enough for it to fit the 150mm head tube length.

I was wondering how you guys went about it, did you take the full amount off of one side, or did you split it top and bottom?

I was thinking of doing 5mm top and 5mm bottom. But it might be easier just to do the full 10mm on the bottom, but that is a lot to take off. Suggestions?
 
atarijedi said:
Hey guys,

I need to shave down the height of my head tube to 140mm for my new forks since I can't adjust the crowns enough for it to fit the 150mm head tube length.

I was wondering how you guys went about it, did you take the full amount off of one side, or did you split it top and bottom?

I was thinking of doing 5mm top and 5mm bottom. But it might be easier just to do the full 10mm on the bottom, but that is a lot to take off. Suggestions?


You have to cut it from the top only or you will change the geometry of the bike. Not something you want to do especially if using smaller than 26" tires.

Probably the cheapest way to cut it is to cut it by hand with a haxsaw or something as close to straight as you can, use some kind of a guide or squares.

Then bring the bike to a local bike shop with a reamer tool to face it smooth and straight, so the head headset sits flush.

You may also be able to file it down perfectly square.

Good post to start

http://forums.mtbr.com/frame-building/cutting-head-tube-hand-684552.html

I had my recent frame custom ordered with a 140 mm head tube. 10mm cut off the top.
 
Offroader said:
atarijedi said:
Hey guys,

I need to shave down the height of my head tube to 140mm for my new forks since I can't adjust the crowns enough for it to fit the 150mm head tube length.

I was wondering how you guys went about it, did you take the full amount off of one side, or did you split it top and bottom?

I was thinking of doing 5mm top and 5mm bottom. But it might be easier just to do the full 10mm on the bottom, but that is a lot to take off. Suggestions?


You have to cut it from the top only or you will change the geometry of the bike. Not something you want to do especially if using smaller than 26" tires.

Probably the cheapest way to cut it is to cut it by hand with a haxsaw or something as close to straight as you can, use some kind of a guide or squares.

Then bring the bike to a local bike shop with a reamer tool to face it smooth and straight, so the head headset sits flush.

You may also be able to file it down perfectly square.

Good post to start

http://forums.mtbr.com/frame-building/cutting-head-tube-hand-684552.html

I had my recent frame custom ordered with a 140 mm head tube. 10mm cut off the top.

Alright, cool. I think I'll see if I can have the bike shop do it all, cut the head tube, reaming, facing, and fitting the headset. That way if they frock it up, I have some insurance, lol.
 
Thought I would post an update. Turns out there are some 3rd party companies that make "tall" upper crowns for the Manitou Dorado forks, so it looks sorta like the 888s upper crown. So I bought one of them, should show up in the mail sometime next week as it's coming from New Zealand.
 
steam25 said:
hi guys,
i try to order parts from qulbix. anybody know how to get some footpegs for my raptor? :?: :shock:

Hi steam25,
Did you get hold of those foot pegs? We used to have foot pegs that only fitted the 140 model and you needed extra holes made. The new version now fits all frame models without any mods to the frame needed. They can be fitted directly to the bottom bracket (83mm). And we've cut the weight off by almost half (used to be made entirely from steel, now they're mostly made of aluminium).
qulbix-foot-pegs.jpg

Kr,
Ziva
 
Hi there .

I'm looking for a complet 160 Raptor ( Torque ) frame kit .

I'm located in France .

Thanks

Luk

IMG_6842.jpg
 
Luk said:
Hi there .

I'm looking for a complet 160 Raptor ( Torque ) frame kit .

I'm located in France .

Thanks

Luk

IMG_6842.jpg
Thats a nice build there, got it set up for commuter duties.
 
I prefer this one to navigate the water . ;)
 

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Offroader said:
Here are some pictures of my bike with the DNM gold fork. Best bang for your buck and honestly probably better than my more expensive Marzocchi 888






Electronics for active hub motor cooling. The electronics will also be used to power a front and rear action cam.
These were mounted temporary but I have not bothered to mount them permanent, yet they hold up just fine with off road riding.





Drilled out cromotor for active air cooling, fresh air gets sucked into center holes, goes around the stator and comes out only through the outer holes. Works very well and I can push the motor very hard on hot summer days without overheating. Fan used internally uses like 60 watts at full power. Before this mod my motor would quickly rise to 100c and I had to stop riding because it would take forever to cool off




Variable Regen throttle on left handlebar and regular throttle on right handlebar, this allows for easy breaking without having to always cover the brakes.
I prefer thumb over twist because of more precise control, being able to firmly grip the handlebar at all times.

I have the DNM8 forks, would you happen to know the correct size steering tube frame diameter I would need to fit these
 
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