Steel box with a hole for a padlock?

[morph999]

I need to make a new battery box for my batteries since my topeak bag won't be big enough. I've tossing around in my head whether I should give up on making my battery box theft proof or not.

What I'm thinking is if I can find a metal/steel box that has a padlock hole in for a padlock, I could buy a cable lock and lock it to my bike that way and also have attach it to my bike rack by drilling holes in the bottom and using brackets. That way they have to get through the cable lock and the screwed on brackets.

Alll I need is to find a steel box like that but it's hard. I've been searching for a couple hours now. I want to find something similar to this:

I guess I could just buy an ammo box and cut a hole in it for a hasp like this guy has done but I'd rather find a steel box that has a padlock hole as part of the box. Seems like it'd be more secure that way.

It needs to be about 15" x 9" x 7" or bigger.

 

[morph999]

this is perfect but it's $140

It has a welded on hasp.

 

[AussieJester]

Perhaps look at non-steel boxes as well, heavy dute ABS plastic
transport case, some come with locks and a thief aint going to get ninto one easily they are very sturdily made and have locks

View attachment 1

Something like this you could even wheel it behind you like you were thinking of doing :-S

Bolt on go nowhere alternatives-->




KiM

 

[morph999]

I think I know how I'm going to do it now. I'm either going to buy a big ammo box or I'm going to go to a hardware store and buy a metal toolbox. And if I can't find a lockable one, I'll just put a hasp on it.

When I get done, I'll make a thread and give everyone the exact items that I used so people can replicate it. Although, the stores in my state might not be in other states. My plan is to make it so that I lock it up with a cable lock and a screw fastening it to the bottom, that way there are two things they have to remove.

I'm going to have to drill holes in the bottom. Can someone point me to a drill that will work? preferably a cheap one? I don't know what drill to look for or what drill bit to use because I've never drilled a hole before. Or is there another way to drill a hole in a steel/aluminum box?

This is the store near my home.

http://lowes.com
or
http://homedepot.com

 

[morph999]

would this work ?: If so, what kind of drill bit would I use to make the hole and then put the bolts in
http://www.lowes.com/pd_176034-353-6238-02_4294857554_4294937087?productId=3108405&Ns=p_product_price|1&pl=1&currentURL=/pl_DrillsC%2BDrivers%2B%2BBits_4294857554_4294937087_?rpp=60$No=540$Ns=p_product_price|1

Or maybe this one

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2842555&kw=corded+drill&origkw=corded+drill&searchId=46277854903

 

[AussieJester]

Yes the drill would work your definately better off with corded than battery powered if your not using it on a daily basis IMO... and you need a drill bit suitable for steel buy the bolts you want to use and then buy a drill bit of the same size or slightly larger to allow for some 'adjustment' seeing your new to this you prolly wont get things lined up 100% a hole a millimeter larger than the bolt will allow for this. I would suggest 8mm size high tensile steel bolts and a 9mm-9.5mm drill bit. 4 8mm bolts would secure the box/batteries so it doesn't move.

KiM

 

[morph999]

thanks Aussie. Will it say "high tensile" on the package?

 

[morph999]

I'm probably going to use a mending plate like this for the bottom bracket. Put one under the bike rack and then put one inside the steel/aluminum box and use some washers. And then while I'm at the place, find some bolts that fit in the holes...let me know what you think. Is a zinc mending plate good or strong enough? If anyone knows of something better, let me know

 

[AussieJester]

Not sure how you intend to use the plates, they do look a little flimsy though your carrying
a bit of weight and IIRC you plan to add another TS cell? If these are just for backing plates they will be fine
if they are going to be taking lateral load i would probably go with something a little thicker OR double them
up that would work...The bolts, dunno, i buy fropm a Fastner Supplier not a hardware i ask specifically for
the high tensile variety. Straight steel bolts will do perhaps up the size to 10mm to be safe...

KiM

 

[morph999]

The red bracket is supposed to be underneath the bike rack...I know it doesn't look like it in this picture, though.

 

[monster]

definatly go for the ammo box every time. if you can weld them thats the best solution. borrow someones arc welder and its an easy 1hour job. or you can just hoze clip the handles to the rack but mine came off when i did that. it is possible to reinforce the handles though. check out how i have done it in the pictures. the hole unit can come off for charging if you have the keys (three padlocks and two hoze clips hold it on).

 

[monster]

tip: check out a couple of different army surpls shops there are different types of ammo boxes. these ones i have used are german and seemed to fitt better but the nato ones may be best also different sizes. ideal for ping cell width.

 

[spinningmagnets]

Since you don't drill a lot, I'd recommend getting a used corded drill from a pawn shop or thrift store. Test at the counter that it works and you're set. I've had pretty good luck with used tools when I was poor, roughly 2/3rds the price of new, and corded is cheaper than battery-drills.

Few people who own a welder would let you "borrow" it to learn, out of fear that you'd damage the welder somehow, or damage your eyes as a rookie. Get a hasp that is NOT galvanised with a zinc coating, and then sand the part of the box and the part of the hasp that will accept the hasp , all the way down to bare clean metal. Then take the two pieces around to car muffler shops in your area.

They are familiar with welding thin metal, and it shouldn't be hard to find someone to do this 5 minute job for $10. Or, if you have a friend with a welder, offer him some of his favorite beverage and your eternal gratitude. Once welded, allow it to cool, then immediately sand off all the splatter and hit it with some primer to hold off any rust until you can paint it properly.

 

[AussieJester]

Brackets used like in pic will be fine morph ...

KiM

 

[morph999]

How much better is an ammo can over a steel tool box?

 

[MitchJi]

Hi Morph,

I bet you can borrow an electric drill. A garage sale will probably be the cheapest source followed by a flea market. If you find a good deal on a Milwaukee AC powered grab it.

I have an extra Skil 3/8", AC powered Model 569 that I haven't used for several years. Its variable-speed non-reversing. I'd be happy to give you if you cover postage (send me a PM if you are interested). I haven't used it for years, just checked it and it still works.

How much better is an ammo can over a steel tool box?

The ammo boxes are waterproof and stronger. Might or might not be a better fit.

I'd make it look as inconspicuous as possible. If it looks like you have gone to a lot of trouble to theft proof a box mounted on the bike both the bike and the batteries will be more tempting to potential thieves.

 

[morph999]

Ok, I've decided to get an ammo can. It'll look worn and not worth messing with and I like that. Plus, they say that these 20mm ammo cans weigh 20lbs so that means it has tough thick metal and that's what i want. I've seen them for as low as 14.99 but they were out of stock so I'm going to keep looking. If anyone knows a reputable dealer that they've bought from already, post below. It's a 20mm ammo can that I'm looking for. 17" x 7.25 " x 15 or something like that.

 

[morph999]

I like how this guy put a lock on his. I think that's what I'm going to do

http://www.rhinobiscuit.com/drupal/?q=node/3

 

[MitchJi]

Hi Morph,

I like how this guy put a lock on his. I think that's what I'm going to do

4x - 3/4" u-bolts ($0.88 each)
OR
2x - eye-bolts of appropriate size

Normal eye-bolt and u-bolts cut like butter.

I'd use a hasp with a hardened shaft, something like this:
http://www.drillspot.com/products/547981/master_lock_703d_general_use_hasp

Hard steel bodies for strength. Hardened steel staples resist cutting and sawing. Hardened steel locking eyes for strong cut resistance. Tamper proof hinges help resist prying.
DrillSpot Price: $4.49
Free 3 Business Day Shipping

Locking Hasps look a little cleaner:
http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(rpu4pp453h4v2b45jov2zguf)/productdetails.aspx?sku=998003486

"STANLEY HARDWARE" LIFESPAN SAFETY HASP
* Hasp covers screws when in locked position.
* Twist knob to lock.
* Use key to unlock.
* Diecast locking mechanism.
* Zinc plated steel hasp.
* 4-1/2" x 1-1/2"
* Chrome finish.
Price: $4.79

A combination locking hasp might be more convenient:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...f22bf66&itemid=200428230868&ff4=263602_263622

* Combination locking hasp helps protect against forced entry
* Built-in combination lock provides for keyless operation
* Can be used as a conventional latching hasp without lock
* LifeSpan corrugated leaf has up to twice the strength of conventional flat-leaf hasps
* Zinc plated and rust resistant; six inches in length
Price: US $5.50

 

[morph999]

ok, but I was going to then use the padlock to run a cable lock through it and lock it to the bike frame. YOu think that's unnecessary?

 

[MitchJi]

Hi Morph,

ok, but I was going to then use the padlock to run a cable lock through it and lock it to the bike frame. YOu think that's unnecessary?

Depends on how its fastened to the bike frame. If you use a padlock and cable I'd still recommend a hasp with a hardened steel locking eye:
http://www.drillspot.com/products/547981/master_lock_703d_general_use_hasp

General use hasps have steel bodies and hardened steel locking eyes to reduce potential for cutting. Padlock eyes are steel construction and mount virtually anywhere.

 

[morph999]

Someone let me borrow their electric drill !! Awesome. That should save me $30. Now all I have to do is get the ammo can and bolts.

 

[Mark_A_W]

So, a 20lb ammo box on the rear...

How much does the battery weigh?


I'm beginning to sound like a broken record......the handling will suck bigtime.

 

[AussieJester]

will suck bigtime.

haha got that right, hasn't he got the X5 frock motor on the ass of it too? I wouldnt worry about chaining it to anything Morph need a forklift to move it hehe

KiM

 

[morph999]

It'll be fine. YOu guys obviously have never had a Topeak explorer bike rack. Those things are nearly indestructible. I've carried 70lbs on it. Anything under about 45 lbs on a topeak rack is fine. I'll have about 25 lbs of lithium and then 20lbs for the box. I'm pushing it but I think it'll be fine. I like the idea that it is a heavy metal box. I'm considering buying one of those car battery hold downs for it though just for extra security but the thing is 15 inches tall so I don't know if I can find one that long.