cal3thousand
10 MW
grindz145 said:I can't wait for the satiator. Absolutely. That's a real charger and I certainly trust the reliability.
I'm only spewing about it's awesomeness everywhere because I'm currently playing with one
grindz145 said:I can't wait for the satiator. Absolutely. That's a real charger and I certainly trust the reliability.
Can you provide more details on how you did this?“After an afternoon of hacking a tap to the shunt in my controller ...”.
Make More Pi said:Grindz145,
I had noticed in your trek videos that you were reading charge current on your CA. I had figured that you must somehow be sending the charge current through the controller shunt. (My charger connects directly to the battery.) In an effort to find out more I found this thread and saw thisCan you provide more details on how you did this?“After an afternoon of hacking a tap to the shunt in my controller ...”.
BTW, congratulations on completing your trek! Cant wait to see more videos. (Up to day 18 is posted at this point).
That makes perfect sense. (... see what I did there?) And the high side of the charger taps to the high side of the battery inside the controller I assume. Do you bypass the switch so that you can charge whether or not you have the CA powered? Do you run everything through the shunt (as in lights) so that you are tracking power use for these other devices? Or do you consider that just noise?grindz145 said:(I literally soldered to the high side of the shunt) and using this wire as the negative wire to the charger.
Make More Pi said:That makes perfect sense. (... see what I did there?) And the high side of the charger taps to the high side of the battery inside the controller I assume. Do you bypass the switch so that you can charge whether or not you have the CA powered? Do you run everything through the shunt (as in lights) so that you are tracking power use for these other devices? Or do you consider that just noise?grindz145 said:(I literally soldered to the high side of the shunt) and using this wire as the negative wire to the charger.
Alan B said:Just ordered three of these 240W supplies in the 24V versions to charge my 18S setups (I'll set them to 25V for 4.167V/cell). I've had perfect service from a set of three 320W units for a couple of years already, this is an excellent solution to reliable charging. The 240W units are the highest in watts per cubic inch and close to the lowest cost per watt of the Meanwell LED supplies from 150 to 600 watts, so a good choice from several perspectives. Three will make a 700 watt charging system which is unlikely to blow a breaker but still produces a good charging rate (about 10 amps).
In my particular case I don't use the diodes, instead bring a 2 conductor cable out from each 6S bank and plug a charger into each of the three banks. The supplies see the batteries directly, not each other. Takes a couple more cables and connectors but avoids the issues of series connection and the extra components.
Alan B said:I use three powerpole pairs, they can easily be connected into a single 6 pin connector block. I don't bother, just plug the three connectors each time, but if that's an issue it is easy to make it one connector. It hasn't been much of a problem.
If you mount the supplies on the bike they can remain connected to the batteries, they don't draw power when they are themselves unpowered.
heathyoung said:Yes. But voltages must be exact or they won't current share evenly.
riba2233 said:heathyoung said:Yes. But voltages must be exact or they won't current share evenly.
That's true only for CV stage.