gameofbikes
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d8veh said:You can now test to see if the BMS is switched on. Put your black probe on B- and your red probe on B14, which should give 54.2v. Now move your black probe to the point on the pcb where the thick black wire comes out of the BMS and goes to the output connector. It should be marked P-. If you get 0v or something less than 54v, the BMS is switched off. If so, try unplugging the mulipin connector and then re-plugging it to see if it switches back on. If you get the 54v, there's nothing wrong with the cells or BMS, so you have to follow the power wires to find the problem.
When I do this, should the battery be switched on but not connected to the charger, as if I were about to use it on the bike?
EDIT: I measured again, this time not connected to the charger, but the battery pack switched on:
from B- to B14: 54.2V
from P1- (where black discharge wire exits the BMS to connect to the motor), to B14: 48.5V
from black to red anderson powerpoles, of the battery's discharge wires: 48.6V
from black to red anderson powerpoles, of the battery's discharge wires (but with battery pack switch turned off): 40.0V
I disconnected and reconnected the sense plug and got all the same readings again, so that didn't appear to help. So it looks like my BMS is switched off. Would I need to get a new one? Or should I start looking for a component on the BMS that is blown?