Torque Arm For X5 Rear Motor

Great job!!!

Everything looks nice and clean.

What type of material did you end up using to make the torque plates?

Aluminum? I remember you saing that your friends CNC machine preferes aluminum over steel.

How thick did they end up?
 
Microbatman said:
Great job!!!

Everything looks nice and clean.

What type of material did you end up using to make the torque plates?

Aluminum? I remember you saing that your friends CNC machine preferes aluminum over steel.

How thick did they end up?

They are alluminium 10mm thick
 
One more question Doc

What was Difference between the size of the DoubleD HOLE in the torque plate to hold the axle and
the size of the AXLE

I am going to go the torque plate route for my solution and have prototypes made
I just need to give the machine shop dimensions for the hole.

Going to get my made at http://thinwrench.com/


Want to make sure I get this right
Don't want make it too big=slippage or
Too small=filing and compromising the fit

I have the axle measured to the 1/10 of a millimeter accuracy using digital calibers. (a fastneal guy helped me measure it for free with his digital calibers as a courtesy of how many times I have been there so far getting hardware)

So what was the difference between the axle and hole size?
 
They are called calipers ;)

Calibres are for guns...and Austin Powers homonym jokes.

(Sorry, but I've seen calipers spelled incorrectly many times here and it drives me batty...)
 
I always thought it was Callipitters!
otherDoc
 
That stuff makes it more interesting, IMO... translating to english is not always easy.
 
Microbatman said:
One more question Doc

What was Difference between the size of the DoubleD HOLE in the torque plate to hold the axle and
the size of the AXLE

I am going to go the torque plate route for my solution and have prototypes made
I just need to give the machine shop dimensions for the hole.

Going to get my made at http://thinwrench.com/


Want to make sure I get this right
Don't want make it too big=slippage or
Too small=filing and compromising the fit

I have the axle measured to the 1/10 of a millimeter accuracy using digital calibers. (a fastneal guy helped me measure it for free with his digital calibers as a courtesy of how many times I have been there so far getting hardware)

So what was the difference between the axle and hole size?
Go here to see my torque plates http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3803
Laser guy measure my Crystalyte 406 axle, 10mm x 12mm double D shape. He come up with .405 x .470 inch. It's just big enough to fit over axle. Little loose, but any smaller and it would not fit over axle.
 
Microbatman said:
One more question Doc

What was Difference between the size of the DoubleD HOLE in the torque plate to hold the axle and
the size of the AXLE

I am going to go the torque plate route for my solution and have prototypes made
I just need to give the machine shop dimensions for the hole.

Going to get my made at http://thinwrench.com/


Want to make sure I get this right
Don't want make it too big=slippage or
Too small=filing and compromising the fit

I have the axle measured to the 1/10 of a millimeter accuracy using digital calibers. (a fastneal guy helped me measure it for free with his digital calibers as a courtesy of how many times I have been there so far getting hardware)

So what was the difference between the axle and hole size?

the difference size is very minimal" like 0.002 or 3 inch...

Close to pressfit!
 

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TylerDurden said:
That stuff makes it more interesting, IMO... translating to english is not always easy.

If English is the second language then I apologise. My high school Italian has basically gone now..
 
Got it made and on the bike.

Cost $50 from local "Job shop" machine shop.

Used 1/4 inch tool grade steel.
 

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Final Solution

Was able to fit in a rear wheel disc and 7 speed cassette and have room for torque plate/arm

Make marks on the nuts with Sharpie to do a quick "pre ride" check to make sure everything is tight and ready.
See blue maks on bolt.
 

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I understand using a separate piece as a torque arm for an aluminum bike, but for steel bikes I keep it simple and just modify the dropout and it's connection to the seat and chainstays using much thicker material. I make the new dropouts with a very slight V shape so it requires a tap to wedge it all the way into place.

WRT torque arms, I question the use of material as thin as 3mm. My machine shop talked me into trying some strong 2mm stainless as torque arms, and the axle spun in the first 10ft of my first ride. The torque arms didn't give, they just cut right into the soft steel of the axle. What a "welcome to hub motors" that was. :cry: My new 12mm thick dropouts cured that issue once and for all. Even though they're just mild steel, I feel secure with almost an inch of steel keeping the axle from rotating.

John
 
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