Overclocker
10 kW
seems like the box part of the frame isn't welded to the pivot bracket, just bolted on, so you may be getting some movement there
mine's still doing well. i've put it though a lot of testing
Vector Light Commuter Build
- Thread starter skeetab5780
- Start date
seems like the box part of the frame isn't welded to the pivot bracket, just bolted on, so you may be getting some movement there
mine's still doing well. i've put it though a lot of testing
Check your motor axle--if it is sheared off (either at the bearing face or at the dropout face), the motor nuts could seem tight if the axle is jammed into the dropouts, but the motor would be able to wiggle around especially with weight on it while riding, and with weight shifts like on a corner.
Otherwise a broken weld (probably on the swingarm or shockmount) or similar could cause what you see.
Otherwise a broken weld (probably on the swingarm or shockmount) or similar could cause what you see.
skeetab5780
1 MW
amberwolf said:
I will have to check the motor axle when I build this all on a new frame, since its getting close to winter it may happen soon but who knows. I just added a Cycle analyst and nice 12s12ah multistar lipo and now the bike rides like crap
If the CA is setup to control the throttle of the controller, rather than directly running your throttle in, then it can take a while to tune the CA to ride the way you want it to.
If you don't want the CA to interfere with your throttle control, you can set throttle mode to PASS THRU or BYPASS; one of those modes directly sends the exact throttle input directly to the output with no limiting or modification, etc.
If you still have problems with the ride after that, it's not the CA's settings doing it, and would then probably be a connection or battery issue (since those should be the only other things changed given the parts you've changed/added).
If you don't want the CA to interfere with your throttle control, you can set throttle mode to PASS THRU or BYPASS; one of those modes directly sends the exact throttle input directly to the output with no limiting or modification, etc.
If you still have problems with the ride after that, it's not the CA's settings doing it, and would then probably be a connection or battery issue (since those should be the only other things changed given the parts you've changed/added).
skeetab5780
1 MW
amberwolf said:
It rode this bad for months before swapping battery and CA to the bike, but this is a good tip! thank you very much for the advise
You're welcome...but I'm confused. You said in the post I replied to thatskeetab5780 said:
Which implies that it rode better before the CA and lipo were added.... :?skeetab5780 said:
Maybe I missed something?
skeetab5780
1 MW
amberwolf said:
Yes my wording was just bad sorry, I did an overhaul to the bike electronically thinking it would work better mechanically knowing deep down it would not solve anything
now its even more noticeable since its slightly faster having 12s over 10s
it should say and now it STILL rides like crap
skeetab5780 said:
Then in this case, if you can describe exactly what you mean by that, and if it is not something that has *always* been the case with this build, then if you can describe what happened or what was changed between the time it was better and the time it was worse, it will help us help you figure out the cause.
skeetab5780
1 MW
cannot wait to get rid of this frame, went to ride this the other day on a tour and the second I moved the bike out of my shed I pushed it right back where it sits collecting dust because it is un rideable with whatever is wrong with it, just moving the handlebars side to side you can see the ass end fish tale and wobble very unstable
the only possible thing it could be is the hub bearings or the swing bearings, and the bike has not been ridden enough to wear them out...I wish I had more time to dig into this issue
I need to build this stuff on a more reliable frame since I really miss
- having pedals
- having cruise control
-having regen
-having a cycle analyst
-having full suspension
-the hub motor I could care less about, it is not that quiet with this old trap controller but still fun
the only possible thing it could be is the hub bearings or the swing bearings, and the bike has not been ridden enough to wear them out...I wish I had more time to dig into this issue
I need to build this stuff on a more reliable frame since I really miss
- having pedals
- having cruise control
-having regen
-having a cycle analyst
-having full suspension
-the hub motor I could care less about, it is not that quiet with this old trap controller but still fun
skeetab5780
1 MW
So i attempted to ride this bike this weekend, but after wasting my time fixing my 6s LIPO packs and getting them in the bike and bolting the entire cover down tight...Then I go to turn it on and nothing works...(man why didn't I test it before closing frame) So i again take the cover completely off and for the life of me i cannot figure out why it wont work.
It has a complete mess of wiring inside so it could be many issues
-12s lipo on 63v controller(pretty sure ive done this before but not sure of LVC)
- has cycle analyst
- has cruise control
- has 3 speed switch
- has ignition switch
Checked them all and could not get the wheel to spin, so i gave up and rode a VOLOCI instead
[youtube]T4BZtQErSKA[/youtube]
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/T4BZtQErSKA
It has a complete mess of wiring inside so it could be many issues
-12s lipo on 63v controller(pretty sure ive done this before but not sure of LVC)
- has cycle analyst
- has cruise control
- has 3 speed switch
- has ignition switch
Checked them all and could not get the wheel to spin, so i gave up and rode a VOLOCI instead
[youtube]T4BZtQErSKA[/youtube]
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/T4BZtQErSKA
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