Votol EM-100 & EM-150 controllers

Please advise, I have a motorcycle 8000w 72v80 ah. I drive 200 meters and the motor is switched off, then you have to wait 5 minutes and then another 100 meters, I can not understand what the problem is, probably the motor heats up,
I have a VOTOL EM-150 controller.
 
Мотор был сгоревший, мы поменяли провод

Russian "The motor was burnt out, we changed the wire"
 
I don't understand much but what impresses me are 2 things.
On the second page of the program. (pict 1)
Values are from 34; 64. Your value is 196. I don't think it's true

I don't think your engine has bigger magnets than 40mm.

On the third page the pole pairs. (pict2)
I also don't believe you have so few fields. You are 16
And the angle of the hal sensor for you is 0, which I don't think is normal.
Values outside these limits damage the motor and the magnets are magnetized, causing the motor to be scrapped forever.
Probably not the correct settings have damaged your motor.
An expert in this is only LARSB, he can tell you exactly. This is the man who helped me a lot.

I see that you have opened the engine and you can probably count the number of magnetic pairs you have.

But, as I said before, I'm no expert else it will help if this is just my opinion and you should not apply it without being sure.
 

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the motor heats up and shuts off after a few minutes when it cools down it works again.
please tell me which program settings are incorrect
 

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as I understand it the engine was burned and you rebuilt it.
Everything is fine except the parameters I have noted.
In the fourth photo I can see quite a bit of high consumption. Almost 1 amp, and the controller temperature is higher
  high at 44 degrees.
Test the motor on site and make sure that the temperature of the controller does not overheat.
Make a video clip on the display page while the engine is off to see what values it shows.

The first value of 169 is unrealistic to me. TThis means that if you have 196 magnets that are larger than 40mm. In my opinion, this cannot be true.
The second value 16 from pole pairs the other picture is also not real for your type of motor.

Suppose: If the diameter of the motor is 30 cm.
30 * 3.14 = 94.2cm
94.2 / 32 = 2.94cm. Then the value should not be 196 but 34.

At the moment I am only commenting. I have already said these are not values that apply to your engine.
 

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I changed 196 to 34.
watch the video please.
my motor has 16 pairs of magnets

https://youtu.be/C2jumK1aUdY

what else to change?
 
In my engine the value is "-120" degrees.
I can't say for sure about your engine, but it may be "-60" degrees or "-120". I'm not sure.
Do not experiment without being sure. How many degrees are your hall sensors fitted? Do you know?

I repeat for the hundredth time these are values for my engine you may have different.
Ask where you bought it or wait for the opinion of "LARSB" - This boy understands a lot
 

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I want to ask why you are making new settings? Didn't the motor come with the factory settings that the motor worked correctly or someone else was learning on the controller.
 
150 Amps is a lot for this engine.
Yes for sports parameters to instantaneously about 30 seconds with protection for another 30 seconds. The maximum motor current to keep it from burning is about 110 Amps.
Change it to the first page
 
there is a risk that the excessive flux weakening has damaged motor together with the high temperatures when it burned.

To check this:
- What motor do you have? If you don't know: measure diameter and take pictures of your markings.
It might be a QS273 50H, outside diameter of hub shell and width of shell would tell.

- what is noload rpm at full throttle, NO field weakening, high setting/100% rpm
- What is noload current at full throttle, no field weakening
- did you replace the hall sensors?
- what is error shown in program when controller shuts down?
- Do you have temp sensor in motor now?
 
hi guys. got connected! thanks for program. I have controller failure in display marked. but bike rides fine. what is the problem? also how to activate recuperation?
 

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What are the other settings you made. Upload photos or videos
You do not have a temperature sensor or it does not work because the controller does not read it. It reads -10 degrees.
How Many Cables Do You Have on the Hall Sensor Bus? If there are 5 cables, you do not have a temperature sensor.
And what you want to restore.
Program the controller directly and then back up.
 
borko444 said:
What are the other settings you made. Upload photos or videos
You do not have a temperature sensor or it does not work because the controller does not read it. It reads -10 degrees.
How Many Cables Do You Have on the Hall Sensor Bus? If there are 5 cables, you do not have a temperature sensor.
And what you want to restore.
Program the controller directly and then back up.
Георгий23 said:
I have a temperature sensor in the engine.

Good evening. The temperature sensor was installed in the motor after rewinding. It does not depend on the controller in any way, it is not connected to it and is programmed independently, it switches off at a winding temperature of 110 ° С. When the temperature reaches 110 ° C, the sensor breaks the contact "AC" and the controller turns off. After cooling the winding to 105 ° C, the temperature sensor restores the AC connection.
The question is how to properly configure the controller for this wheel. Or how to choose the settings. Factory motor finish at 37km mileage. And reaching a speed of 140km. The real characteristics of this motor are not known.
 

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For longer mileage it definitely lowers the amps.
As I said no more than 110A
150 amps only in sport mode.
What happens now to these controller settings how the engine behaves?


Tell us with these settings how the engine works?
Upload a video clip.
What speed is he developing now, what mileage is there, whether he is working with these settings at all or not.
It would be good to hear the sound when starting the engine on the spot of course.
 
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