Votol EM-100 & EM-150 controllers

larsb said:
It would certainly help if the picture was readable. Or turned.

My apologies
 

Attachments

  • 4DC9483C-B12F-45BF-90FE-F288A4EE9744.jpeg
    4DC9483C-B12F-45BF-90FE-F288A4EE9744.jpeg
    39.9 KB · Views: 2,277
I’ve seen hall fault shown randomly but what it means (if it’s ticked constantly) is that there’s an error caused by the throttle.

Either:
Throttle not connected correctly (or broken)
Or:
high volt error or low volt error caused by set throttle limits that are not met by throttle.
 
larsb said:
I’ve seen hall fault shown randomly but what it means is that there’s an error caused by the throttle.

Either
Throttle not connected correctly (or broken)
or
high volt error or low volt error caused by set throttle limits that are not met by throttle.

Thanks do you know anything about the other error?
 
Bartosh said:
tylerwatts said:
larsb said:
Might be dependent on your available space, the votol EM300 is a bit of a brick but much more powerful at the same price as a nucular.

Someone has to take the plunge and buy it :D
Ok but I asked about an EM150SP Vs Nucular 24F. Is the Votol better value then and plenty controller for the job (so to speak)?

Cheers
Tyler

I can't say until I'm done testing Nucular. I've been having some problems making it work at 300bA/500pA with my qs 138 70h middrive though. There are some weird cutouts, still WiP, need a week or two, it may be a hw failure or may be not, no way to tell at the moment. I might have found a solution but need more time to test it.

What I can confirm, Votol can't be beaten if it comes to standstill response, this thing is like twice as snappy on WOT from 0RPM. Can't make the Nuc work equally well in this regard. Both controllers can be overheated quite easily. I'll post more as soon as I have a stable setup to play with.
Hi Bartosh
Thanks for the feedback. I will follow progress against the Nucular but this is encouraging. And the shunt mod sounds interesting too.

I'm contemplating pushing a large scooter ~220kg + up to 150kg passenger/luggage and hoping the EM150 and middrive are enough. It's a scooter not dirt bike or superbike so lightning performance isn't required or high top speed but 100kph continuous would be great. Does this seem excessive to push the EM150 this hard?

Anybody tried water cooling these somehow? Or asked QS?

Cheers
Tyler


 
larsb said:
There are water cooling blocks for the votols on taobao and simple enough to do diy.
Thanks larsb, I'll have a look. Either that or run an EM300 at lower settings, possibly better than cooking an EM150...

Cheers
Tyler

 
Hi, I saw that it is possible to install an Analyst cycle on the Votol em 100 or 150 but has someone already installed another display. For example the TFT 750c Bafang can it adapt? It is really a shame that Votol does not provide displays which indicate the energy consumed in Wh or Ah.
 
cycle analyst is not a display. it's a complete computer that works on anything running on dc. it does not communicate with the controller in any way; it does not display any information from the controller, or change any settings in the controller.
that's why you can use it on any controller.


all the other things you're thinking of are controller-specific displays, that have a specific communication interface, protocol, and datastream, as all of their information comes from the controller directly, and anything you change on the display goes to the controller directly. they only work with the specific controllers they were meant to. even a different version of the same display / controller may not work with each other at all.
 
Hello group, sorry for the intervention, is that I bought a votol em150s controller and installed it to a Yumamotor 72v 2000w 28-pole hub motor, the problem is that at low rpm it works well but at high rpm it starts to sound ugly and disconnects itself and it is activated in fault display motor hall code 0008, and changed hall shift angle, fw and other settings and nothing. My controller is gray, not black like others, my provider writes to him and he does not answer me. Thanks again and sorry for the inconvenience.
 
Hello group, sorry for the intervention, is that I bought a votol em150s controller and installed it to a Yumamotor 72v 2000w 28-pole hub motor, the problem is that at low rpm it works well but at high rpm it starts to sound ugly and disconnects itself and it is activated in fault display motor hall code 0008, and changed hall shift angle, fw and other settings and nothing. My controller is gray, not black like others, my provider writes to him and he does not answer me. Thanks again and sorry for the inconvenience.
 

Attachments

  • Resize_2020-03-26_13-52-01-716.jpg
    Resize_2020-03-26_13-52-01-716.jpg
    96.1 KB · Views: 2,161
  • Resize_2020-03-26_13-50-59-592.jpg
    Resize_2020-03-26_13-50-59-592.jpg
    58.7 KB · Views: 2,161
Hi guys
I have a problem with my VOTOL EM100.
I use the 12V brake contact to activate the magnetic brake but when the lights are on I have 8VDC on the wire. The problem is that it activates the brake even when I don't touch the handle. Impossible to ride.
I tried to install a resistor but it does not work. Either the brake does not work at all or it works continuously. Is it possible to calibrate the voltage on the high level brake input? for example 8V = OFF 12V = ON
 
Yep bjork that's good. I have 8V on the wire instead of 0V when the lights are on. If the lights are off I have 0V.
Yes there may be a mass problem. Thanks, I'll see that.
I already have led lights. So there is no way to calibrate the controller inputs?
 
im about to do a test run on my setup, 138 motor and em150sp controller. do I need a switch for the 3 speed functions? what if I just want it in the best performance mode all the time, would that be sport mode? and do I need any type of switch for that or can It stay on every time the unit is powered on?
 
rexfordk83 said:
im about to do a test run on my setup, 138 motor and em150sp controller. do I need a switch for the 3 speed functions? what if I just want it in the best performance mode all the time, would that be sport mode? and do I need any type of switch for that or can It stay on every time the unit is powered on?

Then you just bypass gnd and s-mode wire together
 
Hi Guys i just wired up or thought I did a EM 150sp and I can't for the life of me get it to turn on. What connections are required to get it to turn on? Are the Alarm connections required to turn the unit on? e-Lock is connected to the battery directly.
 
bayareametalfab said:
Hi Guys i just wired up or thought I did a EM 150sp and I can't for the life of me get it to turn on. What connections are required to get it to turn on? Are the Alarm connections required to turn the unit on? e-Lock is connected to the battery directly.

Check the display page in the gui, to se if its in Park mode. If it is, search this thread to get the solution.
 
SilverLine said:
bayareametalfab said:
Hi Guys i just wired up or thought I did a EM 150sp and I can't for the life of me get it to turn on. What connections are required to get it to turn on? Are the Alarm connections required to turn the unit on? e-Lock is connected to the battery directly.

Check the display page in the gui, to se if its in Park mode. If it is, search this thread to get the solution.

The software won't connect to the controller I'm getting that error.

open error.jpg
 
bayareametalfab said:
SilverLine said:
bayareametalfab said:
Hi Guys i just wired up or thought I did a EM 150sp and I can't for the life of me get it to turn on. What connections are required to get it to turn on? Are the Alarm connections required to turn the unit on? e-Lock is connected to the battery directly.

Check the display page in the gui, to se if its in Park mode. If it is, search this thread to get the solution.

The software won't connect to the controller I'm getting that error.

open error.jpg

If its the Sp version, remember to tick "Can enabled" and power the controller from the battery.
 
SilverLine said:
bayareametalfab said:
SilverLine said:
bayareametalfab said:
Hi Guys i just wired up or thought I did a EM 150sp and I can't for the life of me get it to turn on. What connections are required to get it to turn on? Are the Alarm connections required to turn the unit on? e-Lock is connected to the battery directly.

Check the display page in the gui, to se if its in Park mode. If it is, search this thread to get the solution.

The software won't connect to the controller I'm getting that error.

open error.jpg

If its the Sp version, remember to tick "Can enabled" and power the controller from the battery.

Its the same error both ways and I have the 82.6v to the grey and purple Elock wire.
 
Back
Top