Wxbull controller setup wiring help

[Esar42]

Hi everyone
I have a new Wxbull 72v 100amp 5000watt 30 mosfet controller.. That is replacing my blown 72v 80 smp controller which was paired with a SW900 display. My Question is the wxbull controller does not have a 5 wire display output lead. It only has a single green and yellow wire marked as multiple data metre (multiple data display) so how can you connect a display to only one wire.? Is there such a thing as one wire display?
Any help very much appreciated

 

[amberwolf]

You'd have to find out from the manufacturer (or seller, if they know) which interface it uses, and which specific displays it is compatible with. (controllers and displays are not generally intercompatible, as there are numerous physical interfaces as well as data formats / protocols, etc; there are some threads around here discussing these if you're interested in the technical details).

If it uses the Votol / Sabvoton "one line" interface, then it could be compatible with their displays.

If it uses the more typical older signal that various scooters/etc use, it's just a speedometer signal, with no data on it. Sometiems this speedo is from a motor hall, and is a 5v signal--if it's connected to a data line by mistake, it probably wouldn't hurt anything, even if it didn't work.

But sometimes it is from a phase wire and is a full-battery-voltage signal when it's operating. If that's connected to anything other than a display intended for that voltage, it could (probably would) blow up the display's speedo input or the entire display MCU (etc).

Or it could be some totally different interface....



Regarding the new controller's higher 100A current limit, vs the older one's 80A limit: What is your battery's capability? If it isn't designed for more than 100A, it will have problems with the higher current draw of the new controller, if the load placed on the system is high enough to draw that much.

In that event you'd need to program the controller (if it's programmable) to only draw as much as the battery is capable of.

If it is too high, at best it will sag in voltage more than it should so you don't get the power you should, wasting that power as heat inside the battery itself instead, and as the battery gets closer to empty it will start shutting down the system from dropping below LVC. At worst it could damage the battery (either the cells or the BMS FETs may fail, possibly failing stuck on so they can't protect the pack from anything).

 

[Esar42]

You'd have to find out from the manufacturer (or seller, if they know) which interface it uses, and which specific displays it is compatible with. (controllers and displays are not generally intercompatible, as there are numerous physical interfaces as well as data formats / protocols, etc; there are some threads around here discussing these if you're interested in the technical details).

If it uses the Votol / Sabvoton "one line" interface, then it could be compatible with their displays.

If it uses the more typical older signal that various scooters/etc use, it's just a speedometer signal, with no data on it. Sometiems this speedo is from a motor hall, and is a 5v signal--if it's connected to a data line by mistake, it probably wouldn't hurt anything, even if it didn't work.

But sometimes it is from a phase wire and is a full-battery-voltage signal when it's operating. If that's connected to anything other than a display intended for that voltage, it could (probably would) blow up the display's speedo input or the entire display MCU (etc).

Or it could be some totally different interface....



Regarding the new controller's higher 100A current limit, vs the older one's 80A limit: What is your battery's capability? If it isn't designed for more than 100A, it will have problems with the higher current draw of the new controller, if the load placed on the system is high enough to draw that much.

In that event you'd need to program the controller (if it's programmable) to only draw as much as the battery is capable of.

If it is too high, at best it will sag in voltage more than it should so you don't get the power you should, wasting that power as heat inside the battery itself instead, and as the battery gets closer to empty it will start shutting down the system from dropping below LVC. At worst it could damage the battery (either the cells or the BMS FETs may fail, possibly failing stuck on so they can't protect the pack from anything).

Thanks heaps for that info mate, much appreciated. I will now try find info on my battery and if its compatible of supplying what that controller would demand of it.
As ridiculous as it sounds, I accidentally perchaced this controller so i am now stuck with it . $240 Australian dolars was an amount i did not want to spend on a Chinese controller i know nothing about. My bike has a 72v 26ah battery and had a 80 amp basic chinese controller. I was happy with the performance of the bike. Although more power would be good but far from a priority.
The bike stopped working cause the controller phase wires, where they connect to the motor by a dodgy yellow plastic terminal block had melted.
probably due to me not tightening the bolts which bolt the terminals together tight enough or paying not enough attention to there being good contact serface area between the mateing serfaces of where the terminals bolt together.? Im not sure
So i decided it would be a good idea
( probably incorrectly, although im not sure) to upgrade the controller phase wires so i replaced the phase wires from what i think was 13awg to 10 awg thicker wires. With plans to do same to motor phase wires.
But when i connected it up to test it before i put everything back together it all turned on properly the display working fine but when i open the throttle nothing!? the motor (which is brand new) just makes a click sound but doesn't spin.
So whatever i did must have somehow damaged it?
I have no idea?
So i just started researching what controller i should replace my blown one with and was looking at 100 amp 30 mosfet controller s to see if there would be any advantage in a slightly higher amp controller.
But i ran out of time so i put put the wxbull 72v 100amp controller i was looking at in my e bay shopping cart so in a few days i could easily find it and go back to where i left off researching controllers.
Two days later i received a thanks for your perchace your product is on its way message.?
I don't know how that can even happen but I'm hoping i can use it for im keeping it.
Ive messaged the e bay seller and the manufacturer multiple times asking for technical specifications, installation instructions what features does the controller have? anything at alll? But nothing ?
So very frustrating.

 

[amberwolf]

So i decided it would be a good idea
( probably incorrectly, although im not sure) to upgrade the controller phase wires so i replaced the phase wires from what i think was 13awg to 10 awg thicker wires. With plans to do same to motor phase wires.

Were the wires themselves getting hot (not just the connectors, which is usually a bad crimp on a ring terminal, or a loose bolted connection0?

If the wires aren't heating up, there's not enough resistnace in them to need thicker wire to get more power thru them.

But when i connected it up to test it before i put everything back together it all turned on properly the display working fine but when i open the throttle nothing!? the motor (which is brand new) just makes a click sound but doesn't spin.
So whatever i did must have somehow damaged it?

Could just be the wrong phase/hall wire order. If the motor is different than the old one, the wiring order is probably different too.

Could be a problem inside the new motor. Does it work with the old one? (assumning the brand new motor isn't replacing a damaged / broken one)

Could be a bad connection on a hall sensor wire.

Could be some other connnection problem, since presumably the controller was disconnected from everything on the bike during the wire upgrade?

Does the throttle signal wire have the corredt voltage range on it as you move it?

Conection problems are not always visible, so you may have to test from one end of a wire inside a device all the way to the other end inside the other device to verify continuity.

If the new ocntroller is programmable, then you probably have to run the setup program for it to tell it all about your system to make it work.

So i just started researching what controller i should replace my blown one with and was looking at 100 amp 30 mosfet controller s to see if there would be any advantage in a slightly higher amp controller.

Only if your battery can handle that higher current demand, and your riding conditoins/style draw enough power to cause the controller to demand the extra curent.

Two days later i received a thanks for your perchace your product is on its way message.?
I don't know how that can even happen but I'm hoping i can use it for im keeping it.

That I don't know--you'd have to check with the techncial support for the website you purchased it on. Every ebay purchase i've ever made required that I verify my payment informaiton before I checked out, and my address, etc, so it was unmistakable that I was buying something, and I always got an email notification both from ebay that I'd made a purchase, and one from my payment method site as well, within minutes of purchasing.

Ive messaged the e bay seller and the manufacturer multiple times asking for technical specifications, installation instructions what features does the controller have? anything at alll? But nothing ?
So very frustrating.

If you link to the page for the purchase, someone might recognize it or be able to find some info based on the details on the page itself. No guarantees, but worth a shot.