Hey,
I made few GT2B enclosures in the past with epoxy/CF and I had just to connect the throttle/trigger potentiometer to the P1 channel (3 wires) of the GT2B PCB. No need to connect the "wheel" to the P2 as I don't need channel. Works fine on all my remotes. This GT2B has a normal micro usb port to charge. Binding works only when you plug at least P1 to the GT2B PCB (means you power the GT2B by pressing bind button... then the led blinks (no need to have your receiver ON to get to this).
I lately ordered a GT2B and it seems they have made some modifications:
- the micro usb has been replaced by a micro flat usb
- the binding only works when you connect BOTH P1 and P2.
As I don't need P2, is there a way to make this work without adding the P2 potentiometer ? I was about to solder middle P2 pin with one of the other P2 pins but don't know if this is smart and the side effects. Maybe this will try to gives instruction on P2 to the receiver and draw the battery life of the GT2B
I made few GT2B enclosures in the past with epoxy/CF and I had just to connect the throttle/trigger potentiometer to the P1 channel (3 wires) of the GT2B PCB. No need to connect the "wheel" to the P2 as I don't need channel. Works fine on all my remotes. This GT2B has a normal micro usb port to charge. Binding works only when you plug at least P1 to the GT2B PCB (means you power the GT2B by pressing bind button... then the led blinks (no need to have your receiver ON to get to this).
I lately ordered a GT2B and it seems they have made some modifications:
- the micro usb has been replaced by a micro flat usb
- the binding only works when you connect BOTH P1 and P2.
As I don't need P2, is there a way to make this work without adding the P2 potentiometer ? I was about to solder middle P2 pin with one of the other P2 pins but don't know if this is smart and the side effects. Maybe this will try to gives instruction on P2 to the receiver and draw the battery life of the GT2B