Coyote Lexington 29er eMTB 20000 watt

Tazman

1 mW
Joined
Dec 20, 2018
Messages
19
Maybe going to purchase a Coyote conversion. Does anybody have opinion on this model. Thanks.
 
If it is already converted you will have to link to the conversion. Also, 20000 watt is physically not feasible on that bike. :D
 
Tazman said:
Maybe going to purchase a Coyote conversion. Does anybody have opinion on this model. Thanks.

Is it for offroad use? The fork is a little cheap (entry level) and flexy for offroad, but probably OK for street and normal potholes.
 
Tazman said:
Quite alot of big tree roots and its very rutted with big rocks.

Root and rock gardens do require better suspension components and stiffer frame, unless you ride them very slow.
 
I aint planning on riding it like a wild bull. Wanna keep the bike in one piece for abit
 
Tazman said:
I aint planning on riding it like a wild bull. Wanna keep the bike in one piece for abit
A good fork is more about control, so you can ride it with that fork, and see if it works with the terrain and speed you’d normally be riding it on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Yep. Root gardens are about the worst obstacle in mountain trails. They are making a quick succession of suspension compression, they are often very slippery, and always make it difficult to keep your riding line.

If you ride them very slow, any bike will do. If you ride them moderately, you need a good suspension already. If you want to speed them through, you need the very best suspensions and experienced tuning.

You will see by yourself, the speed that you are capable of with the equipment and experience that you have. When you exceed them, it is then that your bike will turn into a bucking bull. :wink:
 
So basically a root garden is a very uneven course. What wheel pressures would you advise front and rear i am 224lb(16stone)and 178cms(5'10").
 
Need more info, like the weight of the converted bike and tire size/volume (and sidewall thickness). General rule is to run about 2 psi more in the rear than front, and trial and error starting at the recommended pressure on the side of the tire and moving down from there. Heavier weight requires more pressure, larger volume tires allow lower, and tubeless should allow maybe 5 psi lower than that.

Making a guess on the total weight, and assuming cheap stock installed tubed tires, I probably wouldn't go below 30-32 psi in the rear. Part of that is factoring in avoiding the pain of getting a flat if it's a rear hub motor. I'm still playing around with pressure myself, since moving to these heavier e-bikes, and switching to tubeless to get it a little lower.
 
The tires are Schwalbe Marathon Plus MTB. Size 29" wheels and total weight of bike is 36kgs. Thats all that i know about the ebike.
 
Tazman said:
The tires are Schwalbe Marathon Plus MTB. Size 29" wheels and total weight of bike is 36kgs. Thats all that i know about the ebike.

So that's a little over 300 lbs for bike and rider. I'd keep the tires above 30 psi; but you could go lower with fatter tires.

Total weight for me is around 230 lbs now, and I let a little too much air out of my tires yesterday when I got to the offroad part of my ride. Lots of traction, and good on the ruts, but I could feel the sidewalls flexing around corners, and since I didn't bring a pump, ended up having to ride the 10 miles back home that way (the low pressure dropped my top speed on the pavement down 3 mph). Tires were under 20 psi when I checked. I think 30 rear, 28 front is just about right for me, so I can ride offroad and not be too sluggish on pavement (2.2" tire, running tubeless).
 
So for me taking into thought my weight and bike, what would you suggest front and back tyre pressures?
 
Back
Top