Sabvoton 72150 with QS205 3000W motor.
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Dui ni shuo de dui
100 kW
The question is very vague, so I'm not sure what answer you expect.
You can put all the settings of the sabvoton to maximum power, the QS205 3000W motors can take much more than this controller without any problem.
For example, I've run the QS205 2000W motor with an unlocked version of the Sabvoton 72200 at 550A phase and 250A battery, the motor is still alive and well.
So yeah, you can put the full power, so that should be 150A battery current and 350A phase current. That is, if you battery can deliver that much current, of course, because you didn't give any information about the battery, which is the most important component of an EV. So first things first: check what is the maximum current that your battery can deliver., otherwise your battery will cut off.
For example, if your battery is rated for only 100A then you will have to set a maximum of 100A as your battery current.
Be careful if this is intended to be put on a bicycle, that will be a lot of power.
You can put all the settings of the sabvoton to maximum power, the QS205 3000W motors can take much more than this controller without any problem.
For example, I've run the QS205 2000W motor with an unlocked version of the Sabvoton 72200 at 550A phase and 250A battery, the motor is still alive and well.
So yeah, you can put the full power, so that should be 150A battery current and 350A phase current. That is, if you battery can deliver that much current, of course, because you didn't give any information about the battery, which is the most important component of an EV. So first things first: check what is the maximum current that your battery can deliver., otherwise your battery will cut off.
For example, if your battery is rated for only 100A then you will have to set a maximum of 100A as your battery current.
Be careful if this is intended to be put on a bicycle, that will be a lot of power.
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It will depend on many factors: motor winding, driving style, whether you do a lot of hills, vehicle weight, etc. etc.
The best way to find out your settings is trying different battery and phase amps, find the settings you like and keep an eye on the motor temperature, after all is all about the heat in your motor.
All this said I find a qs205 4t stable at 300 phase amps and 150 battery amps even on terrains with a lot of hills, more than this the motor overheats.
Qs motors states the following:
Phase cross section inside motor
5T 24×0,2= 4,8 mm²
4T 30×0.2= 6.0 mm²
The best way to find out your settings is trying different battery and phase amps, find the settings you like and keep an eye on the motor temperature, after all is all about the heat in your motor.
All this said I find a qs205 4t stable at 300 phase amps and 150 battery amps even on terrains with a lot of hills, more than this the motor overheats.
Qs motors states the following:
Phase amps recommendations and info
strand cross section – 0,2mm²Phase cross section inside motor
5T 24×0,2= 4,8 mm²
4T 30×0.2= 6.0 mm²
That's an interesting excerpt on how max phase current is determined based on the cross section of the conductor. Do you have a link to where that section was copied from? I'd like to somehow incorporate that into my FAQ.
Yes, from this forum on qs motors thread. This is a copy paste of qs motors account reply to this question on their thread.
Here you have my notes on this motor:
QS 205 v3 50H – Details – Portugaline
Thanks! Even more good info.
Dui ni shuo de dui
100 kW
That sounds very low, how come it overheats at only 300A phase?
I'm having one installed on a 90kg scooter, plus myself (85kg) and right now it is draws 330 battery amps (BMS measured) and I don't know how many phase amps but likely close to 600 (the votol controller doesn't really provide this information so that's just a guess). Yet my motor is still alive and I use it everyday. It sure does get hot, but it's been working for years with no trouble at all.
Well I assembled more than 10 qs motors by now. if you ride on flat you will have no problem, if you live in a zone where the road is all but flat it will overheat. and all my motors are with mg4228a red varnish, 10mls ferrofluid, insides painted of black mate and heatsinks.
I understand online we see many people saying they run 600 phase on a qs motor, but is only 10mm phase cables and inside the motor only 4 to 6mm phase cable, is unrealistic to run 600 amps for more than short short short periods of time.
without ferrofluid and heatsinks etc I find the qs motor team answer accurate and realistic, of course all depends on other factors but is a guideline.
“For QS 3000W 205 50H V3 Spoke Hub Motor, 24X5T Winding.
Phase current, we suggest to set 200A (10s), 220-240A (1-2s).
For battery current, it could be 150A (72V).
For other winding motor, we suggest to set max phase current 40 Time of Wire cross-sectional area (10s).
E.g. 24X5T winding, the wire cross-sectional area is 24X0.204=4.896mm²
Peak Phase Current 4.896*40=195.84A.”
QSMotor on max phase.
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Dui ni shuo de dui
100 kW
If you suggest I'm lying then you can check my different build threads, I've always been very transparent about my settings and posted all the info I could about how they are setup. I also built a lot of bikes and helped a lot of people to build theirs since 2014, can't even remember how many actually so let's not start a debate on who is the most competent to share his experience
.You never run 600A per phase for more than a few seconds, because then the motor reaches full speed and phase currents decrease significantly. It is always short periods of time, because there is almost no real life condition where you could run the motor under tremendous loads for a time that is long enough for the phase wires to reach critical temps. Only cases where this could happen is indeed on long hills, or if you run the bike on a dyno, or if your bike is very heavy so it takes longer to accelerate, hence my question.
I'm aware at what QS is recommending, but you need to understand that they take a very comfortable safety margin, which is perfectly understandable since they need to limit risks. Also one thing to note is that not all motors are created equal. Some will heat more than others, my friends and I arent' exactly clear as to why as we still haven't found out yet. But this is rare, usually most motors with the same ratings behave more or less the same.
I started by running the QS 205 2000W at 150A batery with the sabvoton SVMC72150 controller, with 350A per phase, which is its default config. I had it running like this for fur or five years, then replaced it with an unlocked sabvoton at 200 A battery and 450A per phase. Then I increased it to 210A battery and 510A per phase, and then finally 250A and 550A per phase, If I recall correctly. Last upgrade was the votol with 330A per phase ang god know how much phase amps but definitely feels like a lot more than the sabvoton.
All the battery currents were confirmed in real life with the BMS readings. For the phase currents, I used the phase current limit alarms on the sabvotons controllers so it would cut the current if it reached the set up value, which it did, in order to confirm that the phase current that was set up was actually reached (which it was). Couldn't do that with the votol unfortunately, but given how increadibly hard it pulls I'm 100% certain that the phase currents are way, way higher than the sabvoton. The QS 2000W survived though all that, I replaced it with a frankenstein motor very recently but it still is in good shape after ten years of riding. Only issue I ever had with it was a fried bearing.
I never tried ferrofluid on the QS 205 but I did try it on the QS273, so all those figures I mentionned were on what was pretty much a stock motor straight out of QS factory.
Shanghai is indeed pretty flat, there is no big hill, so that really helps. But it is also extremely hot during summer so there's that.
I think that the goal of the forum is to share our experiences. I only shared mine and asked if there was any particular reason why your experience was so different than mine. Didn't want to offend you or anything.
Hello,If you suggest I'm lying then you can check my different build threads, I've always been very transparent about my settings and posted all the info I could about how they are setup. I also built a lot of bikes and helped a lot of people to build theirs since 2014, can't even remember how many actually so let's not start a debate on who is the most competent to share his experience
You never run 600A per phase for more than a few seconds, because then the motor reaches full speed and phase currents decrease significantly. It is always short periods of time, because there is almost no real life condition where you could run the motor under tremendous loads for a time that is long enough for the phase wires to reach critical temps. Only cases where this could happen is indeed on long hills, or if you run the bike on a dyno, or if your bike is very heavy so it takes longer to accelerate, hence my question.
I'm aware at what QS is recommending, but you need to understand that they take a very comfortable safety margin, which is perfectly understandable since they need to limit risks. Also one thing to note is that not all motors are created equal. Some will heat more than others, my friends and I arent' exactly clear as to why as we still haven't found out yet. But this is rare, usually most motors with the same ratings behave more or less the same.
I started by running the QS 205 2000W at 150A batery with the sabvoton SVMC72150 controller, with 350A per phase, which is its default config. I had it running like this for fur or five years, then replaced it with an unlocked sabvoton at 200 A battery and 450A per phase. Then I increased it to 210A battery and 510A per phase, and then finally 250A and 550A per phase, If I recall correctly. Last upgrade was the votol with 330A per phase ang god know how much phase amps but definitely feels like a lot more than the sabvoton.
All the battery currents were confirmed in real life with the BMS readings. For the phase currents, I used the phase current limit alarms on the sabvotons controllers so it would cut the current if it reached the set up value, which it did, in order to confirm that the phase current that was set up was actually reached (which it was). Couldn't do that with the votol unfortunately, but given how increadibly hard it pulls I'm 100% certain that the phase currents are way, way higher than the sabvoton. The QS 2000W survived though all that, I replaced it with a frankenstein motor very recently but it still is in good shape after ten years of riding. Only issue I ever had with it was a fried bearing.
I never tried ferrofluid on the QS 205 but I did try it on the QS273, so all those figures I mentionned were on what was pretty much a stock motor straight out of QS factory.
Shanghai is indeed pretty flat, there is no big hill, so that really helps. But it is also extremely hot during summer so there's that.
I think that the goal of the forum is to share our experiences. I only shared mine and asked if there was any particular reason why your experience was so different than mine. Didn't want to offend you or anything.
I really don’t see where I told you are lying, what I told and you confirmed is that 600 amps for more than short short bursts is not possible. Also I told you what I find to be a stable value for battery and phase amps in difficult terrain with constant up and down, no flat road.
If you run this settings up the hill you will fry your motor or your controller will intervene and shutdown the motor. So I think 600 phase amps is not stable at all in a more difficult terrain.
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