Heat Shrink and Padding Battery Pack - Why?

After cutting, probably have to follow with a round file.
I think your probably right.

So for e bike application the black spacers may not be required? But it's still a good idea to have just in case they chafe against each other wearing out the insulation and resulting in a catastrophic short.

I would think with a bike going over rocks, bumps and so forth there would be a lot of vibration and not good for the cells to touch.
 
I think your probably right.

So for e bike application the black spacers may not be required? But it's still a good idea to have just in case they chafe against each other wearing out the insulation and resulting in a catastrophic short.

I would think with a bike going over rocks, bumps and so forth there would be a lot of vibration and not good for the cells to touch.
I am learning about battery construction myself. I'll be building my first pack soon. Those black spacers aka battery holders are good to have to keep the cell bodies from touching each other. If you can't use them due to space constraints, I think it's a good idea to at least put another layer of heat shrink tubing over each cell for extra chaff protection.
 
They seem to be placing parallel packs together, without using a holder, and allowing them touch, but like you guys say that is not a good idea.

He was doing it six years ago when it was accepted as common practice. It's OK for small batteries, but if you get into 39-78 cells, that's a lot of weight to be held together by glue and nickel. A shop might have fixtures to allow the cells to be glued up and set. They probably use a better glue, Amateurs might use hot melt glue or cyanoacetate (crazy) glue, which may not hold.

Your tool packs have their own constraints, but if you're a DIY guy ,making a battery, you might as well make it as safe as you can. Here's a pic of a $89 shrink wrapped 48V10AH battery I bought from China, The balance wires are half burnt wherethey crossed over the cell.


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He was doing it six years ago when it was accepted as common practice. It's OK for small batteries, but if you get into 39-78 cells, that's a lot of weight to be held together by glue and nickel. A shop might have fixtures to allow the cells to be glued up and set. They probably use a better glue, Amateurs might use hot melt glue or cyanoacetate (crazy) glue, which may not hold.

Your tool packs have their own constraints, but if you're a DIY guy ,making a battery, you might as well make it as safe as you can. Here's a pic of a $89 shrink wrapped 48V10AH battery I bought from China, The balance wires are half burnt wherethey crossed over the cell.


View attachment 362972
Ah thanks. I see what you mean. What caused them to burn in your picture?
 
How about big semi truck tire inner tubes? Aren't they pretty thick? Double them or triple them up if needed. They're free.
A Dremel type rotary tool is versatile and inexpensive.
Dremel is great tool! I have a corded one for many years. Maybe should look for a battery operated one? But if you don't have a Dremel, a file will do.
 
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