Recent content by Singularo

I was going up a steep hill a few days ago, and once I got to the top my bike seemed to completely stop working (throttle didn't work, battery indicator stopped working). I immediately thought it must be the controller, so I went home and put a new one in. Once I got the controller hooked up...

I remeasured the resistance today and it seems to be fine now! One thing that I was thinking that might be wrong is that my motor phase wire that runs from the controller to the motor is a bit weird looking and doesn't plug in all the way. It used to plug in fine, but one time when I was working...

I recently replaced some mosfets on my controller because it was hard to in the wheel with my hand (when the controller was plugged into the motor, of course). After replacing the mosfets, there's no more resistance in the motor when the controller is plugged in, but the motor still doesn't...

I think I've found the datasheet for the MOSFET that's on my controller: http://www.hymexa.com/asset/file/file/product/80V/HYG055N08NS1P&B%20datasheet%20V1.0.pdf It says its 80V/120A and RDS(on) is 5.3mOhms. Do I need one that exactly matches this? Can the values be lower or higher?

I believe that I've blown a couple MOSFETs in my controller. I turned my multi-meter on continuity test and plugged into my NEGATIVE anderson connector on my controller. I touched the BLUE phase wire on the controller and it beeped to let me know I have a blown negative MOSFET on my blue phase...

The wheel turns fine without the controller plugged in. Whenever I plug the controller in, it becomes much harder to turn (almost very similar to the "grinding" I felt when it first messed up). I found a video and I'll watch it and see if I can figure something out...

I followed the instructions and once I put my multimeter into the controller anderson connector, I started getting a steady 0.2. I then unplugged the motor, and it went to OL. Does this mean the motor is the problem?

Another update: Turns out I was wrong about the XT30 connector being for the power button, it's actually for the charger, and the black square cable from the battery is for the power button. I plugged the battery up to the power button and turned it on, and it turned on (I tested the battery...

Hey everyone, I badly soldered on a new fuse (this is my first time soldering) and now I have a different issue. I measured the voltage again after soldering and now it reads 0.6 volts (it used to read 0 volts). Any ideas on how I can get the full voltage out? What could be causing this? Could...

What's the best way to go about this? If I'm able to get the battery working again (going to go buy a fuse today), should I just plug the battery back in and see if the motor works (not going to strain it very hard of course until I can solder the speed limiter back in)?

Thanks! I'll give it a go. I appreciate all the help!

Can I just solder a new one on? Do I need to discharge the battery or anything before I do it?

Yeah, all three connectors (anderson, xt30, and the charging cable) are connected to the bms. Is there a way for me to check if the blade fuse is blown? I have a super73-z1 bike by the way.

I opened up the battery and this is what I found. I checked the cells to see what voltage they were at (connecting B2 to B3 as an example) and they all had 4 volts. Is there anything I should be looking for? I also tested B+ to B- and it was 40.4 volts.