At 72V, the 1500W is more like a 2500+W motor continuous, and often 4000+W for the duration for which a battery can keep delivering power as Cowardly Duck attested earlier in this topic. I will only need enough torque to get up each hill without overheating, in which the motor would get to rest...
"Worthwhile" depends upon your goals. If you were building a fast HPV streamliner or a velomobile, the 1,000W version may be the better option due to the higher kV rating, giving you more top speed per V at the expense of less acceleration per A. Most components are limited to 72V nominal so...
I still have it. It's in very rough shape from the tens of thousands of miles put on it in all weather conditions, plus it was rear-ended at a stoplight(and later repaired), and is no longer sturdy as a result. I will be making a new shell to accommodate 4 wheels instead of 3.
http://kmxsuspension.epizy.com/?i=1
adam333 on this site sells them.
Just brainstorming. I need to keep mass in check. The ICE would possibly never be used even if I installed one, just because of how uncommon the need to use it would arise. The idea is to make an apocalypse-ready vehicle I...
That shell reduced consumption by slightly more than half at 30 mph on throttle only, but as speed rises, the disparity between shelled and unshelled increases because rolling resistance is such a large percentage of the power consumption at lower speeds, and my tires are relative boat anchors...
Not calculations, data points:
0.007-0.009 kWh/mile @ 30-35 mph with pedaling.
Throttle-only, approximately 400W @ 30 mph
Unmotorized, I did some roll-down tests, input the results into a spreadsheet, and got a CdA estimate of 0.20 m^2. This was with the shell on it.
Without the shell...
I have no problem with this argument existing in my thread. Just be cordial about it. There's valid arguments made by both parties, and anyone reading this thread can learn things from both, even if there is disagreement, and even if I think one individual is more right than the other. That...
The rear suspension extended my wheelbase out. The "dork disc" would add another layer of protection against catastrophic failure, but having a single rear wheel still means such failure can always occur in some way.
With the single Leafbike 3T in the rear, running 46.8V and 250A phase current...
Makes me want to fabricate a spacer that goes between the freewheel and the hubmotor so that this can never happen! Fortunately for me, the gap between the freewheel and hub is wide enough that the chain has never gotten caught.
I rarely have time to make progress on my project. The shell is off the trike at the moment but I got it running.
Do you know what caused the rear wheel lockup?
Also, do you sell kits, and/or could you share your rear frame/differential/suspension design and/or a parts list so that I might...