!000w hub motor issue

[5326]

I just finished my first build using the 1000W YesComUsa (golden motor, or whatever, you know Chinese one that doesn't come with a rim tape) on a Giant Rincon mountain bike. Im only running two 6s packs of Lipo in a series to get 48v, just until I get the hang of this LiPo thing. Anyway upon running the bike once I found that the bike wanted to pedal itself like a fixie? I pulled the back wheel of an found there was no freewheel (or better yet I had to use a chain whip to get it to move at all). I should be able to just go buy a new thread on cassette right?

My second issue is that my derailer contacts my motor hub, while I don't expect a person over the net to diagnose this issue, I thought perhaps it would help somebody else, when buying this kit for this bike. Im also about to contact IceCube since I just ordered a few more 6S packs to increase my distance, about getting some harnesses for more amps. Would it be acceptable to Parallel charge both of my packs together even though my iCharger will only go unto 5.0 Amps? As long as I have the balance leads paralleled I should be good right? Will it simply take twice as long?

If there is a silver lining its is that I was so excited to finally get this thing together I took the chain off the bike completely just to try her out at 1:30 AM. I was very impressed with the instant torque and smoothness of the setup, and it never got hot once, as I was silently ripping up and downs the hills of my neighborhood!! :lol:

Thanks to the Sphere for any and all help.

 

[captain387]

Does the cassette "freewheel" when it is removed from the hub motor?
If so, then you could be missing the spacer ring that gives clearance between the cassette and the motor causing it to rub against the motor.

 

[neptronix]

Guys, don't use the term cassette, it will just confuse everyone. What these hub motors use is a threaded freewheel.

If your deraileur is contacting the hub, you've got your derailleur out of alignment and/or you need to just not use the last gear. ( with a hub motor, you rarely need to change out of one gear anyway. )

I agree that a spacer is probably missing, and the freewheel is sorta locked up against the hub ( you'll see it when you take it off )

 

[5326]

Sorry I meant, "threaded freewheel!" and Ive already trashed it while trying to remove it so looks like Ill be buying a new one. Is it common for LiPo cells to be .1 to .3 volts different on the first few balance charges? Im not sure how to adjust a derailer but Ill you tube the shit out of it.

 

[Kin]

Sorry I meant, "threaded freewheel!" and Ive already trashed it while trying to remove it so looks like Ill be buying a new one. Is it common for LiPo cells to be .1 to .3 volts different on the first few balance charges? Im not sure how to adjust a derailer but Ill you tube the shit out of it.

.1 and .3 is quite a bit, but I can confirm it was 5-6 cycles before my LiPo settled down; they've been very balanced since then.

 

[teklektik]

My second issue is that my derailer contacts my motor hub, while I don't expect a person over the net to diagnose this issue, I thought perhaps it would help somebody else, when buying this kit for this bike.

I had a similar problem on my Yuba Mundo with a BMC rear motor - although in my case the motor is smaller and the deraileur cage hit the spokes.

A pretty extreme Low setting is required to fix this – so far, in fact, that the High derailleur adjustment cannot work. The mechanical layout of the derailleur simply doesn’t allow sufficient adjustment latitude because of the placement of the screws and stops.

The cure was to stack two 1.5mm SS washers as spacers on the hanger to move the derailleur outward a bit. This moves the cage away from the hub and spokes requiring a much less extreme Low adjustment and so allows the High adjustment screw to align with its stop. Normal adjustment procedures now go easily.

 

[5326]

My second issue is that my derailer contacts my motor hub, while I don't expect a person over the net to diagnose this issue, I thought perhaps it would help somebody else, when buying this kit for this bike.

I had a similar problem on my Yuba Mundo with a BMC rear motor - although in my case the motor is smaller and the deraileur cage hit the spokes.

A pretty extreme Low setting is required to fix this – so far, in fact, that the High derailleur adjustment cannot work. The mechanical layout of the derailleur simply doesn’t allow sufficient adjustment latitude because of the placement of the screws and stops.

The cure was to stack two 1.5mm SS washers as spacers on the hanger to move the derailleur outward a bit. This moves the cage away from the hub and spokes requiring a much less extreme Low adjustment and so allows the High adjustment screw to align with its stop. Normal adjustment procedures now go easily.

Yeah this thing is an absolute pain in the rear I just got a new freewheel and sprockets put on I just can't seem to keep this thing from rubbing, half tempted to convert to single speed. Ever time I tighten the hub down it sandwiches against the wall of the motor and I can barely turn the pedals by hand.

 

[neptronix]

yup, you need a spacer, as previously mentioned.

 

[neptronix]

http://us.itselectric.ca/Custom_Freewheel_Remover_p/bike-parts-freewheelremover.htm

And probably one of these, if you don't have it already.

 

[teklektik]

yup, you need a spacer, as previously mentioned.

Methinks you are right... although the hanger gimmick worked okay I guess it's a hack. I'll order up a spacer and give it a whirl next time the rear wheel is out.

Thanks!

 

[5326]

Went out and bought the freewheel socket and I had to cut my harness in order for it to fit (as well as drill out the center of the new socket). I also made my own spacer, no more rubbing just have to get my derailer tuned up.

Thanks for the help

 

[knoxie]

yes you can parallel the cells at the discharge leads and the balance wires and charge them and yes it will take twice as long, always make sure that both packs are at exactly the same state of charge before you connect them together.

 

[5326]

yes you can parallel the cells at the discharge leads and the balance wires and charge them and yes it will take twice as long, always make sure that both packs are at exactly the same state of charge before you connect them together.

Thanks, so there is never a time when I can simply charge without balance leads correct? Just making sure. Also since my fourth charge or so my cells seem to now be within .1v of each other.

 

[5326]

The hub is trashed when I hook power to it and give it throttle it simply jerks once then does nothing Im gonna trash everything except my rim tape and the controller and order something from Justin. Sucks

 

[friedwires]

dont give up yet. it sounds like a bad halls connection. maybe one of the pins backed out of the halls connector.

 

[Kin]

yes you can parallel the cells at the discharge leads and the balance wires and charge them and yes it will take twice as long, always make sure that both packs are at exactly the same state of charge before you connect them together.

Thanks, so there is never a time when I can simply charge without balance leads correct? Just making sure. Also since my fourth charge or so my cells seem to now be within .1v of each other.

Well, if you're using an RC charger then you can use the "fast charge" setting that usually doesn't care about balance leads. Thing is, that defeats the point of an RC charger. It would be the same as bulk charging, except you would still be limited the match amount the charger could do (normally 6s, while people are usually running 10s+ packs).

Bulk charging is not terrible. I bulk charge and occasionally check things out using my battery medic. You do want to wait until your packs stabilize (3-10 cycles, maybe never if you have a permanently bad cell in the pack).

 

[zombiess]

The hub is trashed when I hook power to it and give it throttle it simply jerks once then does nothing Im gonna trash everything except my rim tape and the controller and order something from Justin. Sucks

From happiness of a working ebike to totally wanting to throw it all away in one day...

Go over all the connections, take pictures if you have questions (use macro mode for close ups) and post them on here. We'll help you get back up and running, that's what this place is all about.

 

[5326]

The hub is trashed when I hook power to it and give it throttle it simply jerks once then does nothing Im gonna trash everything except my rim tape and the controller and order something from Justin. Sucks

From happiness of a working ebike to totally wanting to throw it all away in one day...

Go over all the connections, take pictures if you have questions (use macro mode for close ups) and post them on here. We'll help you get back up and running, that's what this place is all about.

Yep thats my deal, longevity, if its not gonna reliably perform it gets the trash. Perhaps Im spoiled, coming from the gas bicycle world Im used to doing 50-70 mile "event" free cruises whenever a group ride pops, here in San Diego. I'll give it another try, as Im about to pull the trigger on a Crystallite hub and controller, this build will probably rival my 9.5hp Morini build as far as cost goes anyways.

 

[Kin]

I'm not sure if it's a question of longevity or using it properly? Much of this technology is quite reliable, used properly. But do/think as you wish.

 

[5326]

I'm not sure if it's a question of longevity or using it properly? Much of this technology is quite reliable, used properly. But do/think as you wish.

So would you suggest that I cancel my order with Justin and try another $280 ebay kit and simply focus all of my attention on using it properly?

 

[bane77087]

Quite a few people on here have that 1000 watt rear wheel kit from yescom. One guy Wesnewell has that motor and knows every wire and connection in it. You could have searched yescom on the forum and looked at the post. If you have the time and a camera you can get any technical question regarding a motor answered.
searching yescom on endless sphere provided these post.

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=36193&p=525450&hilit=yescom#p525450

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=29426&hilit=yescom

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=31739&hilit=yescom

also if you go back to your first post you can edit your title, If you wanted an answer regarding a Yescomm 1000 watt rear hub motor problem
if your title said that then you would probly get an bunch of help from people that have that motor.

 

[stinkler]

Check your hall sensor plug pins.
they pop out of the plug sometimes when you connect them.
This motor is a trooper, stick with it.

I used a db9 for my halls and it sucked.
Was jerking all over till I redid the plug.
Upgraded the controller to a 12fet from justin and soldered the shunt.
I've got near 100 miles on it at 60amps so far.
If you are going to ditch it Ill take it

 

[Evoforce]

Don't give up too soon on something that you are just learning! Hang in there and patiently work through what problems you are facing.

 

[boppinbob]

Whatever happens, lessons learned on a first build are lessons well learned.

 

[wesnewell]

Before you installed the wheel, did you check the freewheel to make sure it was freewheeling and not rubbing on the hub? On the freewheel side, you need the spacer (about 2") plus one washer between the spacer and the inside of the dropout. The other side should be the same. if you have a defective freewheel, you'll need a special freewheel tool (designed for 14mm axles) to remove it. Or you can drill out a standard Park FR1 tool and use it. I read from one person that said he got a defective freewheel. Maybe you did also, or maybe you just didn't install the wheel right. Hard to tell without seeing it.