recumpence
1 GW
DAND214 said:
Wow, I live in island lake about 35 minutes north of you!
12V 4.8 HP 2100 rpm winch motor options.
- Thread starter latecurtis
- Start date
Wow, I live in island lake about 35 minutes north of you!
latecurtis
100 MW
View attachment 6
A Haro V3 is a very strong frame almost equal to a downhill bike. It definitely does not fit in the classification of bikes stated above.
Those pictures show a bike with perfectly straight wheels and tire pressure will be to Doug's standards as he has competed in BMX and off road mountain bike competition. He knows a thing or two about bike safety and he will be tuning up my brakes and upgrading them for my first attempt at 40 mph on that bike.
However the Haro V3 will be getting a Magic pie 5 which has nothing to do with this post. The bike below does but I need a sprocket which will bolt to that 29" wheel in the picture on my post on the last page. It is quite a coincidence that Doug has the rear wheel I need for a sprocket. I have known Doug for over three years and have never saw him with anything 29" but now he has that wheel and I recently got the 29" bike.
Ok maybe that 29" bike does fit the above statement Sunder posted as I did not pay much for the bike but it is not a kids bike either and would not be surprised if the weight rating for it would exceed 300 lbs. It is a very thick heavy duty frame. With straight wheels and WITH good disk brakes on the front and U brakes in the back (not installed yet) I can see at least 40 mph with that bike also.
The statement about cheap bikes holds true to the 24" cargo bike I commute with every week or ride regularly. That is why I only run it with 6S LiPo and rarely over 10 mph. I know it may cause confusion as I have so many electric bicycles and so many I am still building. So here. The pictures of the Schwinn , Haro V3 and 29" bike up top are the bikes I believe are 30 to 40 mph capable. The bottom pictures are of bikes not even capable of 25 mph safely. Maybe 20 mph.
#1. 20" front chain drive cargo bike. top speed safely = 20 mph. Bike under construction / rebuild. Estimated top speed at 6S LiPo = 20 mph. (bottom pic)
#2.Schwinn 26" mountain bike with 48V Hub motor. top speed safely = 35 mph. current top speed 26 to 28 mph.(second down from top)
#3. 20" Blue Dimond Back BMX style bike with 48V Hub motor. Top speed safely = 20 mph. Current top speed approx. 20 mph at 48V. (third up from bottom)
#4. 24" cargo bike with 20" chain drive motor on rear. Top speed safely = 20 mph. Current top speed approx. 17 mph. (second up from bottom)
#5. Haro V3 series Mountain bike. Top speed safely after brake job and Magic pie 5 = 40 mph (third and forth down from top)
#6. 29" heavy duty mountain bike. Top speed after brake job and 4 to 6 HP chain driven motor = 40 mph. (top pic)
#7. 26" Diamond Back outlook . Top speed safely = 30 mph. current top speed. 0 (under construction). Estimated top speed approx. 27 mph. (last page)
#1 , #6 and #7 all concern this post and #1 and #7 are current builds like NOW. I am needing help especially with gearing for #7. A 77 tooth 8 mm sprocket which screws to where the freewheel goes (left side of wheel) or bolts to a freewheel.
#6 The 29" wheel I am looking for #420 sprockets that bolt directly to the disk brake mount. Please keep an eye out for me and let me know. I have NOT been lazy and have searched almost daily now for about a week. I just don't see what I need but I am NOT moving on to other builds until #1 and #7 are finished e bike projects as #1 has a 500W 24V motor installed and controller and everything else. I have a good running 800W 36V Unite motor and my choice of two 36V controllers for build #7 also. Thanks and please post when you can. I really need to find these sprockets.
LC. out.
Attachments
Ykick
1 GW
So we gotta "new" LC thread. huh?
There's a little LC in all of us, I suppose...
There's a little LC in all of us, I suppose...
recumpence
1 GW
So, who remembers "Safe"?Ykick said:
This reminds me of his threads (and personality).
Matt
DAND214
10 MW
Sunder
10 MW
latecurtis said:
This will be my last opportunity to stop you killing yourself. You could build a mountain bike out of the adamantium from Wolverine's bones if you want, but:
1. A downhill bike is generally full suspension - The Haro is a hardtail. You will not handle bumps and potholes as well.
2. A downhill suspension bike typically has 6-7" of travel. The Haro V3 Suntour forks have 4" of travel. Compound the issue above
3. A downhill bike is usually made of steel, with titanium or carbon fibre parts and reinforcement. The Haro V3 is made of Aluminium. It's much, much weaker.
4. A downhill bike is usually fairly heavy, which provides it stability. A Haro V3 is fairly light.
5. A downhill bike usually has a more relaxed geometry for a more balanced ride - especially down hills, the Haro has a more forward leaning geometry for better cycling ergonomics.
6. A downhill bike usually has specially designed wheels with stronger spokes... At least the Haro V3 has a 32 spoke wheel, but I can't vouch for the guage used.
7. A downhill bike will generally have hydraulic disc brakes. The Haro v3 has cheap mechanical front discs and rear v-brakes.
I reiterate my point below:
Sunder said:
latecurtis
100 MW
Ok I will process that bit of information and confer with my friend Doug.
I have NOT ordered anything yet. I also stated that I wish to put to use the two motors I currently own before getting another motor. Both motors I currently own will run off the 22V LiPo packs I own. I don't even have 44 or 48V capacity unless I use 4 SLAs.
Also I have got nowhere trying to find sprockets which DO NOT exist without custom prices or closer to 100 per wheel sprocket than to 50 bucks. Basically I am looking to be able to ride my Haro and my 29" bike and my 26" Diamond Back if I want to and if I can accomplish that at even 15 mph and maybe 20 mph awhile pedaling a little then it would be better than having one 40 mph capable bike.
Basically by next summer I want to be able to have all my bikes running with two of these types. I have seen them around here for people hauling cans and stuff. They are not uncommon in the city. Also it is very easy to hide the motor making it impossible to detect if you are only using pedal power : or not.
However the only modification I would make to the set up in that video would be Flat steel bars attaching to each axle bolt and bolted to the sides of the trailer. I wish to make a custom one and maybe use an electric scooter wheel A small FAT wheel should be good for excellent traction plus gear reduction.
Then we can talk about the gradual increases in power. I ,: with a small wallet prefer cheap gear reduction. Smaller wheels are gear reduction by design. Here is the video and my version will be some real ghetto shit. :lol:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qJG5u-QawaI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x0eCA4BT78g#t=426.336997
I have NOT ordered anything yet. I also stated that I wish to put to use the two motors I currently own before getting another motor. Both motors I currently own will run off the 22V LiPo packs I own. I don't even have 44 or 48V capacity unless I use 4 SLAs.
Also I have got nowhere trying to find sprockets which DO NOT exist without custom prices or closer to 100 per wheel sprocket than to 50 bucks. Basically I am looking to be able to ride my Haro and my 29" bike and my 26" Diamond Back if I want to and if I can accomplish that at even 15 mph and maybe 20 mph awhile pedaling a little then it would be better than having one 40 mph capable bike.
Basically by next summer I want to be able to have all my bikes running with two of these types. I have seen them around here for people hauling cans and stuff. They are not uncommon in the city. Also it is very easy to hide the motor making it impossible to detect if you are only using pedal power : or not.
However the only modification I would make to the set up in that video would be Flat steel bars attaching to each axle bolt and bolted to the sides of the trailer. I wish to make a custom one and maybe use an electric scooter wheel A small FAT wheel should be good for excellent traction plus gear reduction.
Then we can talk about the gradual increases in power. I ,: with a small wallet prefer cheap gear reduction. Smaller wheels are gear reduction by design. Here is the video and my version will be some real ghetto shit. :lol:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qJG5u-QawaI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x0eCA4BT78g#t=426.336997
Do you realise that a cheapo 1000W 9C clone hubmotor will do 40mph*? They're cheap, reliable and idiot-friendly to fit to a bike (I'd say idiot-proof if it weren't for the need for torque arms).
*For about 10 miles before melting down.
*For about 10 miles before melting down.
dontsendbubbamail
10 kW
- Joined
- May 28, 2008
- Messages
- 718
recumpence said:
I remember Safe. He is the man that all men wish they could be. Could prove anything with an Excel spreadsheet and magnet field graph. Could see and understand things that no one else could.
Bubba
Sunder
10 MW
dontsendbubbamail said:Could prove anything with an Excel spreadsheet and magnet field graph. Could see and understand things that no one else could.
Bubba
Did he die when a division he did on the original Pentium chip went wrong and gave him a bad answer?
(Okay, nobody will get that joke... The original Pentium CPU had an unnoticed bug where it would give slightly wrong answers for floating point division - meaningless for daily maths, but for engineering and other high precision maths, it could have been disasterous)
recumpence
1 GW
I got itSunder said:dontsendbubbamail said:Could prove anything with an Excel spreadsheet and magnet field graph. Could see and understand things that no one else could.
Bubba
Did he die when a division he did on the original Pentium chip went wrong and gave him a bad answer?
(Okay, nobody will get that joke... The original Pentium CPU had an unnoticed bug where it would give slightly wrong answers for floating point division - meaningless for daily maths, but for engineering and other high precision maths, it could have been disasterous)
Sunder
10 MW
It's the journey, not the destination he's interested in. It's his raison d'être. If he ever reached his goal, he'll suddenly cease to exist.
latecurtis
100 MW
Punx0r. First of all , Thank you for posting. The answer is yes. I have been researching the cro motor or Hubzilla. Also the Chrystille Crown motor as well as the Magic pie 5. I will discuss all that there my friend and invite you to join me there for in depth discussion. I would like to here your opinion on those for my Haro V3 build.
However. :This post concerns non hub motors.
I am posting possible chain drive builds here.
However. The other post in e bike general discussion - new ezip motor is where I host my own show concerning hub motors and batteries and stuff. It is a series consisting of over 150 pages. As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. That is over 500 episodes I think or pushing it.
I did set up my pay pal account but have not put money on the card yet. I may be waiting until the first to do that. Basically I am stuck as I don't have the parts to proceed further in builds.
I have a bike which is 20" with a 500W motor installed but don't have a wheel sprocket. I need to order a $10 mounting kit for a 56T spoke sprocket and run that on the front of the 20" bike with the smallest motor sprocket possible for #420 chain for proper gearing. It is a dual d bore and 10 mill. They do make a sprocket for it but it is an 11 tooth. A 10 tooth would work better if it could work. I was trying to make an 80T wheel sprocket and 11T #25 motor sproket work but failed due to a bent 20" wheel and too short axle causing the chain to rub against the frame and motor mount bracket. I could try that again I guess but need new wheel and sprocket is at dougs on bent wheel.
Also I have the 29" bike and a 29" rear wheel at Doug's which has the disk brake mount for a wheel sprocket. I also have an 800W 36V Unite motor sitting on a shelf on my front porch. The motor spins at 2,750 rpm and the wheel is 29". That my friends is a problem. The question is how to solve it. Since I am dealing with a bunch of smart guys on this forum I was hoping for answers. Anyone can just order a hub motor. It is not a big challenge to make that work. Chain drives are different and is what separates the men from the boys as the saying goes. Thanks.
LC.
Sunder
10 MW
latecurtis said:
Do you also bring a knife to a gun fight, because it separates the boys from the men? Or have you mixed your metaphor, and it's what separates the quick from the dead?
DAND214
10 MW
Sunder said:
Sunder, you are concerned that he might not be around to post? I kinda thought he would of killed himself by now, but he's still posting. You all know, we can't change serious/stubborn men's mind. (Women to)
He has hub motors that work and it seems that he doesn't like the reliability they give. A chain is fine for low speed applications but 50mph, I don't like that. Especially with such a small chain and wood.
Good luck LC.
Happy Thanksgiving to all.
Dan
latecurtis
100 MW
No. As for chain driven motors go or at least for the 20" bike and the two Unite motors I am dealing with now the 20" will be a 20 mph bike and the 29" with the 800W motor maybe 27 mph tops.
Basically I would not even bother if I did not have the motors , controllers and batteries already but since I do and the bikes , why not? I see no sense in e bike parts like that just sitting around. What purpose would they serve sitting and collecting dust instead of running ? Only a few key parts are required to get at least two bikes up and running.
In the spring or summer a crazy Hub motor on the V3 Haro will be the 50 mph bike. These chain drives are just to give me something to do until then so I get a break from Pirates Tides of Fortune once in awhile and don't die from boredom.
Thanks everyone and Happy Thanksgiving.
LC. out.
Sunder
10 MW
DAND214 said:
Yeah, just not a fan of unnecessary deaths.
It also amazes me that he thinks that just because it's harder, means it's better. He's got one thing right, but got it arse about: His project does separate the men from the boys. A man does what needs to be done and gets on with life. A boy has the time and energy to dream up all sorts impractical and convoluted ways to do things. As he says, this project is mainly to keep him from dying of boredom. He's reverted back to childhood.
But unlike the kid who wants to put cardboard wings on his bike and don a cape to go as fast as he can down "dead man's hill", he's not young any more, and he has no parents to stop him hurting himself.
Happy Thanksgiving guys. I guess we should be thankful we're all still around.
DAND214
10 MW
latecurtis
100 MW
http://www.staton-inc.com/store/index.php?p=product&id=2199
The motor has the same specs but the shaft is different.
My motor takes a dual D bore 10mm sprocket.
Anyone know if there is a way to make it work or know of a 9 tooth which will fit for #420 chain.
Thanks.
LC. out.
The motor has the same specs but the shaft is different.
My motor takes a dual D bore 10mm sprocket.
Anyone know if there is a way to make it work or know of a 9 tooth which will fit for #420 chain.
Thanks.
LC. out.
latecurtis
100 MW
http://tncscooters.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=63_92
https://electricscooterparts.com/sprockets8mmchain.html
The problem I see is the 72 tooth sprocket being out of stock. When will it be in stock ?
The math works for the 36V 800W motor if I use it on the Haro V3. The Currie rack is installed and I ran a similar motor on the Currie for years with the #25 80T and cheap skinny chain.
It should work better with the chain upgrade and at 2750 rpm with a 26" tire gearing will be for 29 mph with those sprockets.(72 tooth wheel and 10 tooth motor) Maybe slightly high for an 800W motor but it should work. it will also have pedal power and several gears to shift into. Thanks.
LC. out.
https://electricscooterparts.com/sprockets8mmchain.html
The problem I see is the 72 tooth sprocket being out of stock. When will it be in stock ?
The math works for the 36V 800W motor if I use it on the Haro V3. The Currie rack is installed and I ran a similar motor on the Currie for years with the #25 80T and cheap skinny chain.
It should work better with the chain upgrade and at 2750 rpm with a 26" tire gearing will be for 29 mph with those sprockets.(72 tooth wheel and 10 tooth motor) Maybe slightly high for an 800W motor but it should work. it will also have pedal power and several gears to shift into. Thanks.
LC. out.
latecurtis
100 MW
My idea is to drill holes in the rag joint sprocket and mount the 56T spoke sprocket to that disk brake mount instead of the spokes. It is a 48 spoke wheel and not meant for a 36 spoke kit anyway.
The motor is 4.8 to 6 HP and 2100 rpm at 12V. With 4S LiPo it will be getting approx. 16V and turn about 2700 rpm.
gearing with a 56T wheel and 11T motor sprocket using #420 heavy duty chain will be for 45 mph.
A 100 amp variable controller will produce 1600 watts which falls short of the power needed to go 45 mph though so as far as the 29" bike with the winch motor the controller so far is the only weak link.
Either way I am building the 29" bike this summer. If it is over geared, oh well. I already have the sprocket and all I need to is drill four holes. It should still be good for 35 mph anyway with that set up.
However!
If anyone knows of a similar controller like on the bottom but 120, 150 or 200 or 300 amps please let me know.
Thanks. LC out.
Attachments
latecurtis
100 MW
I just got the 11T motor sprocket for #410 bicycle chain and will be installing the 800W motor of the front of the 20" cargo bike tonight. I will be taking off the 56T spoke sprocket from the 29" wheel and putting it on the 20" wheel.
I used a sprocket calculator program to check the gearing.
The motor currently on there is a 24V 500W 2500 rpm motor. A 56T sprocket and 11T motor sprocket = 29 mph which is about 10 mph over-geared.
The 36V 800W motor turns 2,750 rpm at 36V and 1834 rpms at 24V. 24V and 533W gearing = 21.5 mph which will work if i get some pedal assist.
That is the current build. I will have to use the 24V 500W motor for a different application. Thanks.
LC. out.
=
I used a sprocket calculator program to check the gearing.
The motor currently on there is a 24V 500W 2500 rpm motor. A 56T sprocket and 11T motor sprocket = 29 mph which is about 10 mph over-geared.
The 36V 800W motor turns 2,750 rpm at 36V and 1834 rpms at 24V. 24V and 533W gearing = 21.5 mph which will work if i get some pedal assist.
That is the current build. I will have to use the 24V 500W motor for a different application. Thanks.
LC. out.
=
Similar threads
