GGoodrum
1 MW
johnrobholmes said:
Yes, these are cheap enough to just include all six. There will be 8 output wires, instead of 5, but that's no big deal.
14kw continuous 94% efficient motor.......
- Thread starter recumpence
- Start date
Yes, these are cheap enough to just include all six. There will be 8 output wires, instead of 5, but that's no big deal.
GGoodrum
1 MW
There is a 30 degree offset for where the sensors need to be, between delta and wye.
recumpence
1 GW
I am open to most anything at this point.
The big 14kw motor is not going to be available in two weeks. But, it is not out of the question for a sensor kit to be worked out in that time (not available, but working and debugged ready for production).
The big question would be how to mount the sensor ring on an existing Astro motor. My thought is the end bell would need to be modified for slotted hole fitment as shown. But, maybe an entire new end bell would be in order?
Matt
The big 14kw motor is not going to be available in two weeks. But, it is not out of the question for a sensor kit to be worked out in that time (not available, but working and debugged ready for production).
The big question would be how to mount the sensor ring on an existing Astro motor. My thought is the end bell would need to be modified for slotted hole fitment as shown. But, maybe an entire new end bell would be in order?
Matt
Ypedal
100 TW
Oh man... how sweet would it be to get a bolt on solution to existing 3210 users !!! 
I would likely leave the HV controller soldered to the motor, running off the hall sensored and in the event of a smoke show simply power up the HV to get home !
I would likely leave the HV controller soldered to the motor, running off the hall sensored and in the event of a smoke show simply power up the HV to get home !
johnrobholmes
10 MW
The HV controller can't be hard wired in. It will get power and smoke from the voltage.
I would say it may be best served to offer either a replacement plate for 3210 owners, or modification of their existing. Unless somebody else can think of a better way to mount a sensor board, having a slotted end plate seems to be a good solution. It allows for a relatively sealed motor, external adjustment, and no extra motor length. The sensor board should be able to work on both configurations of motor if done properly.
I would say it may be best served to offer either a replacement plate for 3210 owners, or modification of their existing. Unless somebody else can think of a better way to mount a sensor board, having a slotted end plate seems to be a good solution. It allows for a relatively sealed motor, external adjustment, and no extra motor length. The sensor board should be able to work on both configurations of motor if done properly.
johnrobholmes
10 MW
Got the endplate back today and started work on the sensor board. Got it all soldered together and used hot melt glue to place the wires and components for now. Maybe I can get time after dinner to wire it to a controller and test it out. If not, it is the after work project for tomorrow. Maybe I can fit in enough time to test the halls at least. Pretty excited to have such a powerful motor with Halls in it! 8) Sensorless startups can be a real pain to deal with sometimes.
Here is what would make me order one today:
cost around $50 assembled with Halls
plug and play with existing ebike (lyen etc) type controllers
bolt-on reasonably weatherproof to existing 3215 motor
minor fine-tuning nec. only
Katou
cost around $50 assembled with Halls
plug and play with existing ebike (lyen etc) type controllers
bolt-on reasonably weatherproof to existing 3215 motor
minor fine-tuning nec. only
Katou
A
Anonymous
Guest
50$without the shipping?
waterproofed?
the rest I don't care about. it'stheprice that I would really like fixed up as well, a group buy spread across several forums anyone? :lol:
waterproofed?
the rest I don't care about. it'stheprice that I would really like fixed up as well, a group buy spread across several forums anyone? :lol:
katou said:
johnrobholmes
10 MW
Got her running! Only took a few hours of fiddling with sensor placement, phase terminations, and taking it apart 10 times. I honestly thought I would be able to get it a bit quicker.
No load on 36v, 50kv is about .7a in Wye termination. I advanced the timing to around 1.1a. I need to find my tach so I can see what is going on for the speed.
No load on 36v, 50kv is about .7a in Wye termination. I advanced the timing to around 1.1a. I need to find my tach so I can see what is going on for the speed.
drewjet
10 kW
It's hard to tell from the pictures, but is it picking up the flux from the end of the magnets? Do you have pics with the sensors in place?
LOVE it!!!!
LOVE it!!!!
johnrobholmes
10 MW
I forgot to take a pic with the sensors in, I will need to pull the motor apart again for that. The sensors just pick up the flux from the side. Not ideal but it works just fine.
etard
100 kW
Not that motor isn't ridiculous as is... but if one were to anodize the body then machine the fins much like that small motor in the background, I would be tempted to buy one just to place on the mantel. 
This is a giant step forward for light EV'ers, specifically a supermotard. Matt, please build it!!!
This is a giant step forward for light EV'ers, specifically a supermotard. Matt, please build it!!!
johnrobholmes
10 MW
Matt and I have already discussed anodizing with some machining on the fins. It would look pimp!!
johnrobholmes
10 MW
I sent this via PM to another member. This will work for any astro.
The halls are on 120 degree spacing. All are facing the same way. If you looking at the wires coming out of the stator (wires up at the top, 12 o'clock), the leftmost wire is likely red (for 6 wire motors). The slot that this wire comes out of is neutral timing for a hall sensor, start by placing the first sensor there. From there you have 36 permutations for the sensor and phase wires, and I think only 4 work properly (maybe 6 or 8?). The easiest way to start is to wire up the halls and try all 6 combinations of the phase wires before switching a hall pair. You probably know the routine. If it runs, check the no load amp draw to make sure it is the right combination.
The halls are on 120 degree spacing. All are facing the same way. If you looking at the wires coming out of the stator (wires up at the top, 12 o'clock), the leftmost wire is likely red (for 6 wire motors). The slot that this wire comes out of is neutral timing for a hall sensor, start by placing the first sensor there. From there you have 36 permutations for the sensor and phase wires, and I think only 4 work properly (maybe 6 or 8?). The easiest way to start is to wire up the halls and try all 6 combinations of the phase wires before switching a hall pair. You probably know the routine. If it runs, check the no load amp draw to make sure it is the right combination.
mud2005
10 kW
what's the Kv on this motor? sorry 20 pages is too much to read
johnrobholmes
10 MW
Whatever you want. I got mine at 50kv in WYE termination so that I could have a single stage reduction system.
InterestedinEVs
1 kW
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2010
- Messages
- 309
We've dubbed this motor the "soup can". You guys will LOVE what we hope to do with it, but I can't let the cat out of the bag just yet.
To Matt: I got your PM, but I'll have to talk about it with my boss first.
-Cole
To Matt: I got your PM, but I'll have to talk about it with my boss first.
-Cole
InterestedinEVs
1 kW
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2010
- Messages
- 309
Yep. Just wait...
Yep. It's Cream of Pants flavor.
johnrobholmes
10 MW
I'm calling mine the Schumaker Boss.
recumpence
1 GW
You Guys are hillarious.
I just call it the "Big Motor". Of course, that is not very original.........
How about "RPM" (Recumpence Performance Motor) Or (Recumpence Permanent Magnet)?
Just thinking out loud.
Matt
I just call it the "Big Motor". Of course, that is not very original.........
How about "RPM" (Recumpence Performance Motor) Or (Recumpence Permanent Magnet)?
Just thinking out loud.
Matt
Josh K.
100 W
Can't wait to see this beast in action!
This will kinda be like an E bike, on nitrous.
I know the feeling. We have been beating upon an E tek for a few years now.
"Greany", is drinking 50 volts, and 500 amps. I like to continue pedaling her up to speeds, slightly unlawful in the E bike world.
I will see If I can pull a little video together for ya'll.
It will be nice to have another motor option, and possibly somebody to ride with someday...
Josh K.
This will kinda be like an E bike, on nitrous.
I know the feeling. We have been beating upon an E tek for a few years now.
"Greany", is drinking 50 volts, and 500 amps. I like to continue pedaling her up to speeds, slightly unlawful in the E bike world.
I will see If I can pull a little video together for ya'll.
It will be nice to have another motor option, and possibly somebody to ride with someday...
Josh K.
There's soup you eat with a spoon.
Then there's soup so manly you eat it with a fork.
Then there's the soup can motor that eats your forks.
(I know it's not a hub motor, but it's the best I could do with what I had)
Then there's soup so manly you eat it with a fork.
Then there's the soup can motor that eats your forks.
(I know it's not a hub motor, but it's the best I could do with what I had)
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