150mm rear axe donor bike

Joined
Aug 9, 2010
Messages
77
Hello,

I just got my donor bike this week to build my ebike. Its a down hill bike norco six dual suspension. Also, it seems solid enough to withstand a bomb! People use this bike for jumps and drop up 25' !!! (some people are much crazier then me ;)

I haven't thought about axe length before my purchase. However, since getting the bike I realize it has a 150mm rear axe. With 8 speed and a disc brake.

I see most kit are made for 135mm axes. However when looking at adding 7 or 8 speed it seems that the axe has to be extended to fit. Does anyone have experience installing a rear hub motor on such bike?

Cheers
 
The 'Chopper' type bikes have rear wheels about 4" wide and longer rear axles than 135. Search for chopper, I know they've found hubs that work without any extension and some probably found good ways to deal with too-short axles too.
 
I assume that you're talking about the "dropout" spacing when you say "135" or "150" mm "rear axle".

I'll also assume that you haven't purchased your hub motor kit yet...

If both of the above assumptions are correct then consider the following:

Yes, most hub motors are designed to fit within a 135mm dropout spacing. Some hub motor units also have axles that are at least 170-175mm wide. This means that you will probably be able to find a hub motor unit to fit your 150mm dropout space (with the use of additional "inner" axle spacers) that will still have "room" for the axle nuts, washers, and a torque arm (it'll be "close" for sure though...).

Some hub motor vendor/suppliers also offer website "blue print" pdf images that indicate the width of the hub motor, hub motor dropout, and hub motor axle width, motor offset (if any), etc. Otherwise, many ES members will most likely be able to give you these dimensions from their own units.

BTW, most of us here do not recommend that you "spread" or "squeeze" aluminum alloy rear frame forks by more than a few mm at the most. However, many of us have no "problem" with spreading steel frames out by 10-15mm or so.
 
Hello,

Both assumptions are correct. I have a 150 mm rear dropout spacing and have not selected a motor yet. I bought the bike this week to convert it to electric.
Has anyone on this forum converted a bike with a 150mm dropout space?

Cheers

15855517_640.jpg
 
I have an old Bafang gearmotor that required 155 mm spacing at the rear triangle. Since my old trike was rear suspension I went to Goodwill and got a cheep dual suspension Mt bike (20 bucks IIRC) and stretched the rear with bolts and allthread. This was about 4 years ago and it still works. If that Norco is steel then there is some small adjustability but if alloy the suggested motor should also work. I think bafang still makes the wide motor for Chinese bikes.
Good luck with the build!
otherDoc
 
Yep! SWXB type has 158 mm size and 218 length axle. Might work! Check the Bafang site.
otherdoc
 
Cute-128SX Front/Rear Driving DC Permanent Magnetic Brushless Double Geared Hub Motor

145mm rear dropout space!

Yes.
 
I just built with the same frame (Norco A-line).

I used a Clyte 5304, but intend to replace it as soon as I receive a 5306, for dirt use.

Dropouts width fits perfect with total axle lenght (had just enough room for a 3mm torque arm on the non-drive side), little dishing was necessary and some spacer to center the disk with the Hayes caliper.

I run it at 72v with 18s lipo, doing 76km/h top speed on flat pavement with dirt tires. The project was originally for next spring, but I managed to have it running for a few weeks now, and very satisfied with the result.

imag0125ek.jpg
 
I had real trouble finding a motor with a long enough axle for my downhill bike - it's dropouts sit 140mm apart, with 15mm of modded metal each side.

I can only use a Crystalyte or MAC/BMC.

So be careful.



Also, many downhill bikes (like mine, before it was modded) have through-axles at the rear, not dropouts at all.
 
9C 2807 rear disc
http://www.ebike.ca/store/diagrams/M2800RD.pdf

135mm + 51mm + 42mm = 228 mm should be wide enough

Cute 128 rear
http://www.ecitypower.com/pic/128-rear_LRG.jpg
geared 350-500W
145mm + 26 mm + 36 mm = 207
however dimension may simply fit. without using spacers and other such tricks. It might be easier for the gears to aligns.

Originalo wheel has around 192 mm length.

Any thougths on this motor choice?
 
The 9C might be a good choice at a good price, I would have tried one if they were still available with 6X10 winding.
I abandoned the idea of a geared hub after taking informations. The Clyte 5X is a sure value cause you can feed it with a lot of juice and power, when you realize that you'll always want more.
 
Ordered a 9c 2806 rear with disc, torque arm, 6 spacers to align, 8 speed cassette, ezee brake lever, CA... and heat shrink so it looks tidy ;)

Can't wait to install on bike. I am still divided on which battery to choose, location and even headway vs prebuilt... I am waiting to see if juiced rider from US builds more battery and may get pings as last resort.

I will post photos or updates or both =)
 
Received all.

I am having some fun during this installation. It seems that my rear disc brake caliper is too wide to fit between the motor and the disc.

Also, There is a maximum of 6 speed I could be able to use on the nine because of allignement.

Finally, my shifter is bolted on to the brake lever, which I will change for e-brake cutoff and regen.

-----------------------------------------------------

Oh, well this is still pretty fun.

Did anyone try the thin profile brake caliper on ebike.ca they are alhonga if I recall?

I may actually use my setup as a single speed. less thinking more enjoying.
 
kafka-cloud said:
...There is a maximum of 6 speed I could be able to use on the nine because of allignement.
Dish the wheel, your swingarm is wide enough.

Single speed is OK with a motor, but your bike will be heavy to pedal, if you run out of power.

For your caliper, measure how much more spacing is required. If it's only a little, you could only space the disc mount, by fitting washers or disc shims combination.

Fitting a convenient handlebar setup sometimes require some creativity.
 
I'll do some more testing with the spacing. I think the problem I encountered was that with more spacing on the disc side, the disc was too far for alignment. However, when it is within reach the space is too narrow... I am also afraid that if I am using spacers for the disc and spacers for the brake caliper and adapter for bigger disc, the whole setup might be more fragile.

I'll check the width of my caliper tonight.

According to the diagram I have 15.5 mm between the disc and the motor. I did check the X5 and MadRhino, you should have started with 17mm.

Has anyone tried using a 203mm rotor adaptor. If I am outise of the diameter of the motor, The fitting would be much simpler. The bolt on my caliper are scratching the paint about 1 cm bellow the edge of the motor...
 
If it's only the bolt scratching the paint on the motor, it must be little clearance to gain. I would not touch the caliper mount for its alignment and strenght are important, only spacing the disc with 1mm washers should do it with another washer on the axle, then you can also use bolts with lower head shape, or even grinding them flat a little bit. I had to use 0.4mm disc shims to perfectly align the disc into the caliper, they are trouble free since then.

The trick is to first space the disc to clear the caliper width, then spacing the whole wheel from the dropout to align the caliper in the center of the disc. The offset might require a little wheel dishing to keep it perfectly centered, especially if you will be using a 3in tire, that is about the max that this swingarm will clear.
 
Alright!

Rearranged the spacer, dished some metal on the calliper and wheel fits good. I think it will stay a six speed. The arm for the speed can't move further. Everything seems to fit good.

Ye!
 
Your derailer is not wide enough, it must be an 8 speed model. If you want to install 8 or 9 freewheel, as I presume you have space for, you'd have to buy a wider derailer (X9, XT, Xo). Then you might just find that 6 is enough, and it will be fine if the small gear is 11t, for it is the one that you will use the most.

Next step will be to adjust your rear shock, to compensate the weight of the hub. Start with setting it at (or near) the max damping, and the spring limiter between 10 and 15%, shoud be easy to fine tune from there if the spring is good.

So you have a running setup now, I guess. Have a good ride! :)
 
MAdRhino,

Yeah, I have an 8 speed setup. The smallest gear is 11T. I still need to get a battery and install all the other components.

I am wondering if maintenance on front fork and rear shock would be a good investment. They work, but I have no clue when maintenance was done prior (if ever) and this is a 2005 model. I may also have to check for the front stem bearing... (there is a little play). Learning a lot about bikes doing this.
 
Looking at panier bags, there doesn<t seem to be any one fitting a ping 48v 15A battery.

Looking at hardcases that may be fixed on the frame I cam upon this hard case. Any thoughts? Maybe this could be fitted to my handlebar. Or a pelican 1400 case.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/514172-REG/HPRC_HPRC2300FBLACK_AMRE_2300F_HPRC_Hard.html
http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524441892905&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302700553

Make a couple of holes for battery wires and seal them when wire are threw. And a mechanism to attach to bike. Example eye bolt protruding from case with attachment mechanism on bike.
 
Your headset bearing is a priority, believe me you want to take care of that before speeding over any bumps. It is not expansive, and should be maintained in perfect order.

The health of your fork and shock, are first detemined by their damping ability. When they don't spill any oil, you should first try to adjust them to proper performance, according to weight and riding style. Then, if their action is not satisfying with adjustment, you are likely to change some parts. If you are not used to bicycle suspension components and their adjustment, it might take some time playing with them, before you find proper adjusment. Videos are available on manufacturers websites, teaching specific tuning procedures.
 
I'll fix that headseat bearing soon before riding.

For case, I found a hardigg im2100 with an interior of 330mm x 229mm x 152mm. A Ping 48v 15A is 300 x 105 x 150. I'll probably use some D-ring anchor on the case, u bolt on handlebar and carabiner in between. Should be solid enough. watertight enough and looking cool.

The pelican 1400 is 305 x 230 x 131, and HPRC is 305x230x137. Both of these would be very tight fitting is measurement from ping is exactly on the spot. For that reason the Hardigg is the better choice.
 
I just finished installing a rear avid bb7 disc caliper and 185mm rotor. Doesn't need to be shaved if small spacers are used.

I forgot to put the rim rubber between my rim and the tube. Will have to deinstall tire tu put it in. I didn't know what it was when I installed the tyre on the rim... oh well...

My quick shifter integrated into a brake lever, is getting somewhat troublesome. I have ordered a grip shifter for 8 speed to use on the left hand lever. And keep the cutoff brake lever and twist trottle for the right. This should work.

I'll be ordering my battery and case for a front mounted battery tonight.

Cheers
 
I will be mounting a ping 2.5 48v 15A in a Hardigg iM2100 storm case mounted on the handlebarwith stabilization on the stem.

I'll probably use some U-bolt on the handlebar, d ring with tie down braket on case and some sort of hook to clip the case.
 
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