19" Motorcycle Wheels vs 26" Bicycle Wheels (rim and tires)
- Thread starter GCinDC
- Start date
pucksterpete
1 kW
madin88 said:
Thanks Madin & Rick, shes been a lot fun to ride. I have to do some tweaking with the frame shock & forks, backs hurting a little. Sure is a heavy bike now.
Pete
I recently noticed its almost impossible to ride my bike freehand. I measured the trail is very short which would explain this behaviour 
It seems like many kind of DH forks / frames are designd like this to enable fast and effortless steering.
take a look:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_and_motorcycle_geometry
the longer the trail (shallow head angle, little fork rake) the better it is for the stability (freehand riding), but the steering effort will get bigger.
We all should measure the trail at our bikes before we do some changes at the wheel diameter etc. if you mainly ride fast on the street, you want to have a longer trail for stability.
It seems like many kind of DH forks / frames are designd like this to enable fast and effortless steering.
take a look:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_and_motorcycle_geometry
the longer the trail (shallow head angle, little fork rake) the better it is for the stability (freehand riding), but the steering effort will get bigger.
We all should measure the trail at our bikes before we do some changes at the wheel diameter etc. if you mainly ride fast on the street, you want to have a longer trail for stability.
mattrb
100 W
I was working on putting my Pro-wheel 19x1.4 with Shinko 241. The spoke holes need a little intricate shaving with a circular file and I should finish up today
When it comes to an alternative to a Rim strip, I noticed that Gaffing tape would have better physical properties as opposed to duct tape. I am using the Gaffing tape and will take notice of its wear over a year of use.
I noticed the steel Holmes Hobbies Spoke Nipples touch the Aluminum Pro-Wheel rim. The Sacrificial anode lubricant shown in the picture is used where the nipple and the Rim make contact in order to protect against gall. The result of not using the lubricant could be corrosion or if enough heat is present, the spoke nipple could meld onto the Rim. The lubricant is Permatex Anti-Seize Lubricant item #80078
When it comes to an alternative to a Rim strip, I noticed that Gaffing tape would have better physical properties as opposed to duct tape. I am using the Gaffing tape and will take notice of its wear over a year of use.
I noticed the steel Holmes Hobbies Spoke Nipples touch the Aluminum Pro-Wheel rim. The Sacrificial anode lubricant shown in the picture is used where the nipple and the Rim make contact in order to protect against gall. The result of not using the lubricant could be corrosion or if enough heat is present, the spoke nipple could meld onto the Rim. The lubricant is Permatex Anti-Seize Lubricant item #80078
mattrb said:
are you sure your moped nipples are made of steel?
Some lubricant is always good, and if it also protects against corrosion, its even better. I normally put some oil in a small bowl, throw the nipples in there and wipe them a bit dry before lacing.
johnrobholmes
10 MW
Yes, they are steel. We will be making aluminum nipples soon, once the lathe is running.
johnrobholmes said:
ok, sounds good.
john, can you give us more details about corrosion between Al rims (for example the type of Al used for your MMP rim) and those stainless steel nipples?
what will happen if i sometimes clean the wheels with water or ride in the rain? (don't say try it out and see what happens
)
mattrb
100 W
Phasor SR241/Pro-Wheel 19" Install is complete. This took a while but it is definitely much better then my previous rear wheel setup (26" Unicycle Rims with Duro Razorbacks - 29" OD). Going down 3" in OD makes a huge difference, I find that torque is much higher and I can easily get the front wheel off the ground. I think the speed may be about 2 mph faster. The handling seems more loose, and it might be because the tire is brand new and my old tire was worn.
Attachments
Ch00paKabrA
10 kW
wingsuit said:
I am sorry that no one spoke to your problem. If you reduce the size of your picture before uploading it, it will show the actual picture instead of having to click on it to see it.
Here is your picture:
You are off by one spoke hole. Yes, this is a take it apart and do it over mistake. Even though the spoke will probably not line up perfectly with the holes, it is important that they go in the general direction the hole is facing.
Good luck with your wheels
GCinDC
100 MW
bummer! might be worth some effort loosening the all way up, and then moving them to the next nipple one by one?
mattrb
100 W
What do I set my CAv2 for wheel size circumference with the 19"x1.4 Pro-Wheel and the Shinko 241?
Matt
Matt
cal3thousand
10 MW
mattrb said:
For the best number, measure it.
Take your bike and roll it on the ground with the valve pointed down for reference. Roll it an exact number of times, measure the distance traveled and divide by number of tire turns you counted off. Best to do it with your weight completely on the bike to simulate the actual rolling distance.
GCinDC said:
didnt end up being a big deal. I redid it while I watched some world cup on the weekend. even though I wasnt sure at the time, it bugged me that it didnt look as good as it should. the only thing I have to do now is something I didnt think of at the time (anti-sieze lubricant) I'm going to loosen the nipples and get some on before finishing the wheel just to protect against the steel nipples against the alum rim. I've got time while I wait for the rubber anyway (shop wont have shinko 241 restocked until july)
mattrb
100 W
cal3thousand said:
I'm not looking for a perfect number, would you be so kind as to disclose your measurement?
Matt
cal3thousand
10 MW
mattrb said:
I don't run a real Moto tire/rim currently. I measured my 26" DMR Moto RT at 2087mm at 40psi using this method
You are quite right, people should have an understanding of the effects changing wheel size can have, the chassis I am putting together with 17" pro rims has 50mm of trail with the steep 69 deg steering angle i have set, if this is not enough for good stability I can lower the rear ride height a little to increase it as I built an adjustable length link into the shock linkage for this purpose. This allows me to tailor the ride height and trail measurement for any length fork.madin88 said:I recently noticed its almost impossible to ride my bike freehand. I measured the trail is very short which would explain this behaviour
It seems like many kind of DH forks / frames are designd like this to enable fast and effortless steering.
take a look:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_and_motorcycle_geometry
the longer the trail (shallow head angle, little fork rake) the better it is for the stability (freehand riding), but the steering effort will get bigger.
We all should measure the trail at our bikes before we do some changes at the wheel diameter etc. if you mainly ride fast on the street, you want to have a longer trail for stability.
arcticfly
100 W
I have a Crystalyte 5405 in a 19" prowheel rim on my Stealth Bomber. I think I want to go back to the 5403 motor and am wondering if it is easy to change over the stator from my 5403 to the shell attached to the MC rim? Any videos made of this?
cal3thousand
10 MW
arcticfly said:
Should be a direct swap from what I know. Pull it out with a 3 jaw puller and just install in the other shell.
SkyknightJohn
100 W
I decided that the 1.85x19 was going to be too wide for me-- I want to run a bit smaller tire than the 241/244 and had mis-read what tires were acceptable on that wide of rim, so I got some 1.4s. I'll save some weight, too. Spokes on the way...
19x1.4 - vs. - 19x1.85
2.55 lbs. - vs. - 4.3
(1.16 kg - vs. - 1.97)
*edit-switched sizes to match weights
19x1.4 - vs. - 19x1.85
2.55 lbs. - vs. - 4.3
(1.16 kg - vs. - 1.97)
*edit-switched sizes to match weights
Rix
100 TW
mattrb said:
Matt, that came out great, program 1995mm into your ca, that will be really close to accurate speed and Odometer.
Nice Skynight John, You weighed the 19x1.4 rim at 2.55 pounds, I am wondering if the painted rims are a little heavier than the polished? I get 2 pounds on the scale. Of course this is bathroom scales. You will like the 1.4 better.
Rix
100 TW
Ch00paKabrA said:
Now you know why I wont' do anything but rear 1X lace jobs. Nice hub.
SkyknightJohn
100 W
Rix said:
Paint has to weigh something. And, if you're like me, I have a hard time seeing a half-pound on a bathroom scale.
Here are two side-by-side for comparison.
Rix
100 TW
That's a nice and detailed comparison photo. Glad you did it with different colored rims, the same color rim doesn't show the details as much.
Hyena
10 GW
I assume those weights are backwards and that the 1.4 is lighter? That's interesting to see though that the slightly wider rim is nearly double the weight. Hard to imagine, I suspect the accuracy of the scales at that end of the spectrum isn't real good. Most kitchen scales will go up to 2-3kg, some even 5 kg. They'd be ideal for measuring stuff like this and if you happen to have one handy I'd be quite interested to see the comparison.SkyknightJohn said:
I like the wider rims myself. Fat is Phat
But if there really is that much difference between the 2 rims it's something to take into consideration for future builds where weight is critical. Not that we're like the roadies shaving off every possible gram with carbon this and that. We talk in lbs or kgs worth of savings :lol:
