markw
10 W
Hello ES,
Today I would like to share with you my full suspension, direct drive, work-in-progess electric bike!
1.) 2001 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR. Fox Float R in the rear (75mm at the moment, I think it can do 90mm though 90mm travel![9/8]) and a Rockshox Judy in the front. This was a craigslist bike but it was in immaculate condition when I purchased it. No rust on any of the bolts or components. I took it to a local bike shop and had it tuned up right after purchasing it. Both shocks should be serviced or replaced but work pretty decently. I couldn't help but love the color scheme - and + ! For tires I'm currently rolling on Schwalbe Marathon GG RLX Wire Bead Tire (26X2.0) with some slime tubes (friggin' pain in my ass, cannot wait to replace these.) 70psi.
Work in progress...
1a.) Shocks. Full clean. Lube bearings, headset, etc.
1b.) Ditch the slimes. Replace with a fatter tire, possibly wider rims. Thinking Fat Frank @ 2.35. Wheels should be trued.
1c.) I want to convert this to a single speed eventually. In the mean time the rear derailleur need to be relaxed as one of the discs is incredibly close to the cassettes.
________________________________________
2.) The kit is a 1000w rear yescom kit mostly unmodified. All I have changed is how it plugs into the batteries. I opted for 4mm bullets because that's what I had. This is the older kit with the 30a controller I believe. The hub has the silver stripes on it, @wesnewell uses the stripes to identify the older ones.
Work in progress...
2a.) Install a precharge resister. Ordered one of these: http://tinyurl.com/q82dnv3 - by the R/C calculations it should be a 2.5 second charge.
2b.) Eventually external shunt and CA plug and play - haven't gone into the nooks and crannies of this yet.
2c.) The cables that draw power from the battery pack are something like 14 awg? Pretty lame. I want at least 12, 10 preferably.
2d.) While I have the controller open I should add some solder to get a few extra amps into the motor.
2e.) I have two of the crystalite torque arms. I have one installed on the non-wire side at the moment. I need to install another for the other side.
2f.) Figure out what 72v controller will work for me. I want to run 20s2p for the added Wh and burst speed. (9/8)
________________________________________
3. This setup uses a 3s2p battery configuration with Turnigy 5s 5Ah lipo. 61.5v 10Ah @ 30a = 1845w = just shy of 2.5 horse power. The harness was made by me and my father who is a soldering wizard compared to me. I haven't done a full run, but I imagine that these will take me around 10 miles fully charged WOT about 70% of the time. I have 7 in total in case one craps out on me and I want to replace it with a healthier pack. The crown jewel of my entire build is without a doubt the Additive Frame Bag V2 which I purchased from http://www.bikeworldextreme.com/welcome/additive-bag-triangle-bag - it keeps the weight distribution pretty much perfect. It hides the controller and the nest of wires. I keep the 3s1p batteries in the left/right side inside of fire retardant lipo charging bags.
Work in progress...
3a.) I need to think of a way to make charging this pack easier. I have seen icecube578's videos and setups. I may contact him and have him do the thinking for me.
3b.) I currently monitor my voltage through one cell using one of these: http://tinyurl.com/q4tgz85 - I obviously should upgrade to CA as soon as possible. I've seen the external shunt and throttle for the CA plug and play version and that's likely what I'll end up doing.
MEDIA
________________________________________
Here's some pictures!
http://imgur.com/a/0kvMg
Little video of the hub motor on the stand. Gradual, 0-WOT, and a thumbs up. You can see that there is some truing that needs to occur. My camerawork is bad.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nD_iDHj2cDA
Quick video of taking a super quick stroll around the neighborhood
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XTYlURvizNE
Here's some stats from my test run. This tells you grade / speed / and some other cool stuff too. 7.2% grade and maintaining 30mph!
http://www.strava.com/activities/185393196/analysis
Some messing around all over place in order to discharge and play for realistic total distance. At the end of this run cells in each pack were around 3.75v
http://www.strava.com/activities/185715922/analysis
I think that about covers everything that I can come up with. Gurus please chime in with things to add to my to-do list! Thank you guys so much for all of your helpful posts, guides, and encouragement. Three months ago I couldn't even tell you how to calculate watts, change a bicycle tire, or tell you whether 10awg wire was bigger/smaller than 12awg. Still very much to learn and all so excited to learn it. Thanks all! <3
edit1: Added another video and strava analysis
edit2: minor updates
Today I would like to share with you my full suspension, direct drive, work-in-progess electric bike!
1.) 2001 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR. Fox Float R in the rear (75mm at the moment, I think it can do 90mm though 90mm travel![9/8]) and a Rockshox Judy in the front. This was a craigslist bike but it was in immaculate condition when I purchased it. No rust on any of the bolts or components. I took it to a local bike shop and had it tuned up right after purchasing it. Both shocks should be serviced or replaced but work pretty decently. I couldn't help but love the color scheme - and + ! For tires I'm currently rolling on Schwalbe Marathon GG RLX Wire Bead Tire (26X2.0) with some slime tubes (friggin' pain in my ass, cannot wait to replace these.) 70psi.
Work in progress...
1a.) Shocks. Full clean. Lube bearings, headset, etc.
1b.) Ditch the slimes. Replace with a fatter tire, possibly wider rims. Thinking Fat Frank @ 2.35. Wheels should be trued.
1c.) I want to convert this to a single speed eventually. In the mean time the rear derailleur need to be relaxed as one of the discs is incredibly close to the cassettes.
________________________________________
2.) The kit is a 1000w rear yescom kit mostly unmodified. All I have changed is how it plugs into the batteries. I opted for 4mm bullets because that's what I had. This is the older kit with the 30a controller I believe. The hub has the silver stripes on it, @wesnewell uses the stripes to identify the older ones.
Work in progress...
2a.) Install a precharge resister. Ordered one of these: http://tinyurl.com/q82dnv3 - by the R/C calculations it should be a 2.5 second charge.
2b.) Eventually external shunt and CA plug and play - haven't gone into the nooks and crannies of this yet.
2c.) The cables that draw power from the battery pack are something like 14 awg? Pretty lame. I want at least 12, 10 preferably.
2d.) While I have the controller open I should add some solder to get a few extra amps into the motor.
2e.) I have two of the crystalite torque arms. I have one installed on the non-wire side at the moment. I need to install another for the other side.
2f.) Figure out what 72v controller will work for me. I want to run 20s2p for the added Wh and burst speed. (9/8)
________________________________________
3. This setup uses a 3s2p battery configuration with Turnigy 5s 5Ah lipo. 61.5v 10Ah @ 30a = 1845w = just shy of 2.5 horse power. The harness was made by me and my father who is a soldering wizard compared to me. I haven't done a full run, but I imagine that these will take me around 10 miles fully charged WOT about 70% of the time. I have 7 in total in case one craps out on me and I want to replace it with a healthier pack. The crown jewel of my entire build is without a doubt the Additive Frame Bag V2 which I purchased from http://www.bikeworldextreme.com/welcome/additive-bag-triangle-bag - it keeps the weight distribution pretty much perfect. It hides the controller and the nest of wires. I keep the 3s1p batteries in the left/right side inside of fire retardant lipo charging bags.
Work in progress...
3a.) I need to think of a way to make charging this pack easier. I have seen icecube578's videos and setups. I may contact him and have him do the thinking for me.
3b.) I currently monitor my voltage through one cell using one of these: http://tinyurl.com/q4tgz85 - I obviously should upgrade to CA as soon as possible. I've seen the external shunt and throttle for the CA plug and play version and that's likely what I'll end up doing.
MEDIA
________________________________________
Here's some pictures!
http://imgur.com/a/0kvMg
Little video of the hub motor on the stand. Gradual, 0-WOT, and a thumbs up. You can see that there is some truing that needs to occur. My camerawork is bad.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nD_iDHj2cDA
Quick video of taking a super quick stroll around the neighborhood
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XTYlURvizNE
Here's some stats from my test run. This tells you grade / speed / and some other cool stuff too. 7.2% grade and maintaining 30mph!
http://www.strava.com/activities/185393196/analysis
Some messing around all over place in order to discharge and play for realistic total distance. At the end of this run cells in each pack were around 3.75v
http://www.strava.com/activities/185715922/analysis
I think that about covers everything that I can come up with. Gurus please chime in with things to add to my to-do list! Thank you guys so much for all of your helpful posts, guides, and encouragement. Three months ago I couldn't even tell you how to calculate watts, change a bicycle tire, or tell you whether 10awg wire was bigger/smaller than 12awg. Still very much to learn and all so excited to learn it. Thanks all! <3
edit1: Added another video and strava analysis
edit2: minor updates
The power supply is rated for 18a, so it shouldn't be that... right? 
