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2015 Specialized Awol Elite BBSHD build

TexanInTennessee

New here
Joined
Jun 21, 2026
Messages
9
Location
Tennessee, USA
Hello, this is for my build.

Compared to so many things I see on this forum, this is a vanilla build. But it's my build and I will share my joy and geekiness with you here.


Base bike, a 2015 Specialized AWOL Elite:

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Got this ten years ago to go ride the KT trail.

I just could not adapt to the drop bars despite trying. Swapped them for a swept bar, stem riser, and matching Tiagra upright components.

I stopped cycling for a few years, been hiking. Live in Appalachia now right next to the AT.

The bug returned, I took inventory, had this nice steel frame bike.

Knew a mid-drive was necessary for where I live, started getting components and am still awaiting the last of them before I dig in.

Here is the build list to date, more to follow:

Upright Conversion
Handlebar:Origin-8 Transit Ergo Hbar
Cockpit Stem:Bucklos 35mm
Stem Riser:Delta 2.5"
Shifters:Tiagra direct swap (drop to upright)


Drivetrain & Power
Motor:Bafang BBSHD M615 52V 1000W CAN-Bus
Battery:52V 25Ah Samsung 50E cells (1300Wh, 40A BMS)
Display:EKD-01
Chainring:Gustavo 42T for BBSHD (1x conversion)
Chain:KMC E10 Turbo 136 links
Brake Levers:Bafang mechanical with cutoffs
Shift Sensor:Varstrom sensor

Customization
Front Rack Removal
Chain guide:Muqzi Aluminum Alloy - Red
Pedals:Bucklos Nylon Fiber - Red
Tires:WTB Resolute 700x50 (from 42, could fit some 55s)
Tubes:Continental
Grips:ESI Extra Chunky Silicone - Blue
Bar Ends:ZFZ Bar End Plugs - Red
Saddle:Brooks B67 Softened Short (deciding)


Maybe over the 4th of July I will get started. I've already gone about installing a few components and am 3D printing some hardware to help secure the new cabling. My first use of PA6-CF filament it works... ... some of the time ...

Ultimately to be used for rail to trail.
 

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I'm taking my time on this build to address common issues. With no timetable it's a summer hobby to build it.

I wasn't happy with the Bafang speed sensor bracket:1783259475842.png

I started looking for other 3D models having a chainstay mount. Printed several, either they weren't robust enough or a poor fit for my bike.

I noticed the brake caliper mount on my chainstay has a substantial bolt and mounting location that I can use. It positions the speed sensor directly in front of the wheel speed magnet. After printing several and adjusting fit I'm nearly there.
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Mounted on the bike:
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Tight clearance to the magnet on the wheel:
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The final version will use a 5mm x 7mm x 5mm ID sleeve bearing so that the bolt continues to have full clamping force onto the caliper but the printed piece sets on a 15x15mm square and is locked in from the top with the bolt head and a flat washer.

Found a useful part on makerworld that lets you surround the magnet and hold it in position on the spokes. Printed two in carbon fiber and sandwiched the magnet between them with zipties.
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I will post a picture of the final piece and fit up and try to publish the print files (although they may only ever work for my bicycle).
 
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Going to try a novel solution for a torque arm bracket. I don't love the hose-clamped bendable steel brackets very much.

Let's see if I can actually pull this off. I've purchased a second Bafang "Middrive Triangle Torque Plate". This thing: 1783260533989.png

If you put two of these together, the grooves in them lock together. I "think" I can index the second one so that it has one armature bolted to the motor with the second (will get longer bolts) and it's other armature hole ends up positioned directly parallel to the seat tube.

I picked up some UTV weldable roll bar clamps in the correct diameters for my downtube and seattube.

Like these:

1783260668040.png

And I picked up some 9/16" DOM. I think I can create a double clamp that holds onto both the seattube and downtube near the bottom bracket. The DOM tube would connect the two weldable clamps, providing an immovable structure.

Then I can affix the clocked/indexed secondary ring directly to the assembly.

I'm a capable MIG welder but might tap the hillbilly magicians I know with better skills and equipment to get a good finish weld on it for a better looking end result.

Please poke holes?
 
I finished/finalized the design of an alternate wheel speed sensor bracket for the Bafang kit. This one mechanically locks onto the square brake caliper bracket. It features a sleeve bearing to enable full clamping force onto the caliper while holding down the sensor bracket. I will print a second one and keep it in my toolkit for any long rides.
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Began working on a part that will secure the position of the BBSHD in the bottom bracket (I hope).

Got ahold of two UTV roll bar clamps. One has the perfect ID for the downtube. The one for the seattube was too tight. I took it to my neighbor who has a 60 year old South Bend Lathe. He turned it down to the proper size for me. Now they "fit" the two tubes.
1783699621486.png
I plan to connect the 2 pieces with some 9/16" DOM, am waiting for a tube notcher I bought to arrive before I can start.
1783699675206.png
I will likely double up the tubing, one on top of the other if space permits.

Hopefully you can see from the first pic the armature sticking up from the bafang triangle mount ring, I've got a second ring overlapping the first and I think I can build out from the UTV mount on the seat tube so that I bolt the motor directly to it, preventing spin.

I will have to shave the bosses on the downtube with a grinder and touch them up for the larger roll bar clamp to fit. Not thrilled to do that but I can live with it.
1783699816391.png

Waiting for parts 'til hell freezes over.
 
Other random bits:

1) decided to not use a gear shift sensor at all, picked up a motor cutoff switch instead from JohnnyNerdout (hurry up and ship it Johnny) ;)

2) Thinking about not installing a throttle. I mean, it's a 1000 watts so never will be a legal class 1 bike. But I'm not going to drive it like a jerk, and maybe if no throttle is present I won't get hassled in parks or trails. Just wanted the bigger, more robust motor for crying out loud.
 
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