40,000Watt Muscle Ebike - Hardstart twitchy throttle[SOLVED]

zombiess said:
Phase amps would only be that high until current limiting kicked in. Who knows how long that takes on this controller or the die changs.. I am ordering a 300a shunt setup so I can measure the phase amps... I hope.

Op, how did you calibrate your shunt? How many mOhm is it?
During current limiting if the current is limited at 400 battery amps at near stall then the phase amps will be epic remember the current limiting on this controller is based on the battery amps. Once you finally take the plunge with lebowski's chip and your controller you will see how with steady phase amp control the battery current is very low off the line and climbs with rpm.
 
Arlo1 said:
zombiess said:
Phase amps would only be that high until current limiting kicked in. Who knows how long that takes on this controller or the die changs.. I am ordering a 300a shunt setup so I can measure the phase amps... I hope.

Op, how did you calibrate your shunt? How many mOhm is it?
During current limiting if the current is limited at 400 battery amps at near stall then the phase amps will be epic remember the current limiting on this controller is based on the battery amps. Once you finally take the plunge with lebowski's chip and your controller you will see how with steady phase amp control the battery current is very low off the line and climbs with rpm.

I am climbing the ladder on the high dive right now. I hope I don't belly flop. Lebowski setup is almost done. I am posting my driver design this weekend.
 
You will do fine man. You have to dive in at some point or you will be 80 and still wondering if you should change this and that...
I started over 4 times from scratch so far and now My next one will be at least close to what I need for a great layout.... It takes money/time/ and desire. But its so worth it.
 
View attachment 2I'm using an old school ammeter from a forklift, too heavy to carry.

Bluefang said:
Is there anything actually measuring your power usage on the bike?
 

Attachments

  • IMG00063-20130630-1457.jpg
    IMG00063-20130630-1457.jpg
    308.9 KB · Views: 2,790
  • IMG00077-20130630-1526.jpg
    IMG00077-20130630-1526.jpg
    116.2 KB · Views: 967
I wiped out yesterday. I've been limping around all day wondering why I didnt wear knee protectors.

The power of this bike is close to 450A, and is completely uncontrollable, a slight twist of the throttle sends it speeding towards 80mph...this is causing quite a problem as the bike is unrideable, I am going to start trying some resistors to see which works best to ramp the voltage gradually... have you come across a diy solution to this? I would rather build it myself than buy something off the shelf.
Have you or anyone you know of tried installing a 1watt cement resistor to smooth out the throttle response? do you think that'd work?


Arlo1 said:
You will do fine man. You have to dive in at some point or you will be 80 and still wondering if you should change this and that...
I started over 4 times from scratch so far and now My next one will be at least close to what I need for a great layout.... It takes money/time/ and desire. But its so worth it.
 
Not much in this forum is off the shelf. You can try a 3 speed switch like a gear shift.
 
lionschasing said:
The power of this bike is close to 450A, and is completely uncontrollable, a slight twist of the throttle sends it speeding towards 80mph...this is causing quite a problem as the bike is unrideable, I am going to start trying some resistors to see which works best to ramp the voltage gradually... have you come across a diy solution to this? I would rather build it myself than buy something off the shelf.
Have you or anyone you know of tried installing a 1watt cement resistor to smooth out the throttle response? do you think that'd work?

Take it from a guy who spent many months developing a throttle control solution to solve this problem, it's looks good on paper but rarely works in real life.

My suggestion is try a 3 spd switch and change on the fly (could be impossible and dangerous at your power level) or spend the $150 and purchase a cycle analyst and try use it to control your throttle and enjoy the many many the other awesome features it provides. Worth every penny.

P.S. Video's are needed, we want to see this in action! I've done over 15kW on my setup and it is A LOT of power on a light vehicle.
 
Buy Zombiess throttle tame as well. Zombiess probably isnt pushing it because he is the one making the money off of it,but if he wonputty and advertise his product, I sure will :twisted: .
My bike would do wheelies at the flick of the throttle, now I can not do a wheelie unless if I really lean back and want to do one. It sounds perfect for your application. After getting my throttle tamer up and running to my likings It feels like a swelling of power as the bike starts to accelerate faster and faster. With a normal throttle WOT will give you access to all 400+ amps, while with the throttle tamer, you will rev up from 0 amps and rather briskly run up to your current limit, which is what you want to avoid doing unwanted wheelies!
 
I forgot to mention that I wiped out on the lowest setting AFTER installing the 3spd switch. :roll: it was a bad idea lol *limps away*
I'm going to buy a cycle analyst. do you think it'll handle the power? do they do a 500A shunt?
Arlo1 said:
Not much in this forum is off the shelf. You can try a 3 speed switch like a gear shift.
 
you can use the internal shunt in the controller. you need just two wires, one on each side of the shunt. then you can calibrate the CA to read the correct amps.
 
brilliant.
this bike's becoming a moneypit fast, I was looking at beefing up one of the cheapo $30 r/c wattmeters to monitor the current/voltage, has anybody got this modded to these amps/volts, is there anyone who's selling a cycle-analyst for cheap-ish?

nieles said:
you can use the internal shunt in the controller. you need just two wires, one on each side of the shunt. then you can calibrate the CA to read the correct amps.
 
Don't even think about trying to beef up a $30 watt meter, to get to the power you are using and Voltages you would be replacing it all at a higher cost in the long run cause it would likely blow up.

Just get a Cycle Analyst V3 and if you don't want to mod the controller again it will work fine with a 200amp shunt for a electronics store or ebay for $5, a Magura throttle add some resisters to it to make it a curved rise rate, program the V3 properly and you will have a bike worth a lot more rather then the death trap it is :mrgreen: You are pumping 40kw......HOW THE frock DID YOU THINK IT WOULD BE THAT CHEAP. You can usually choose 2/3 options. You chose which 2 you want out of Powerful/Cheap/Well built. I have tried what your doing on your bike and i have learned the hard way having to wait with the bike out of action for a month to get new parts sorted. $~200 to make the bike controllable and give a prefect readout on how the battery is going, power and speed of the bike is freaking cheap as it is.

Sorry if you think i am been rude but 40kw = almost a Zero motorbike which is multiple thousands of dollars. Building a 40kw bike for a few thousand is do able if you want super short range, less then that and as your finding out its abit harsh, awesome but harsh

Derek
 
with the torque that motor's got the wheelie bar'll need a wheelie bar...I was playing with that idea the other day..am thinking of giving it to the welder for a 'quick' fix :D
100volts+ said:
Add a motorcycle wheelie bar to that bad boy.
 
lionschasing said:
with the torque that motor's got the wheelie bar'll need a wheelie bar...I was playing with that idea the other day..am thinking of giving it to the welder for a 'quick' fix :D

Extending the motor drop outs back 6-8" should make a HUGE difference in ridability... downside is when it wheelies you now fall an additiona 6-8" :mrgreen: Ask me how I know :lol:
 
How do you know?

zombiess said:
lionschasing said:
with the torque that motor's got the wheelie bar'll need a wheelie bar...I was playing with that idea the other day..am thinking of giving it to the welder for a 'quick' fix :D

Extending the motor drop outs back 6-8" should make a HUGE difference in ridability... downside is when it wheelies you now fall an additiona 6-8" :mrgreen: Ask me how I know :lol:
 
A wheelie bar can't need a wheelie bar. As soon as it lifts any further, the powered wheel loses traction, so it can't go further over.

Here's another idea. Just go ride it in the grass. Then at least you get to have some fun before you blow that controller. Plus it probably won't hurt as much when you hit the ground. :mrgreen:

lionschasing said:
with the torque that motor's got the wheelie bar'll need a wheelie bar...I was playing with that idea the other day..am thinking of giving it to the welder for a 'quick' fix :D
100volts+ said:
Add a motorcycle wheelie bar to that bad boy.
 
lionschasing said:
How do you know?

zombiess said:
lionschasing said:
with the torque that motor's got the wheelie bar'll need a wheelie bar...I was playing with that idea the other day..am thinking of giving it to the welder for a 'quick' fix :D

Extending the motor drop outs back 6-8" should make a HUGE difference in ridability... downside is when it wheelies you now fall an additiona 6-8" :mrgreen: Ask me how I know :lol:

The falling off part is pure experience, lots of fun on a very torquey setup. Ask any drag racer who rides motorcycles how to keep the front end down on launch. When you have adjustable suspension to adjust then things such as instant center of gravity comes into play a lot more since you can vary the suspension to help compensate.
 
I gave the bike back to the welder so he can secure the batteries onto the frame...where...I don't know... I'm thinking low center of gravity with a clearance of 20cm from the ground, two boxes 20 x 23 x 10, 1mm metal, welded onto the bottom of the frame to make it possible to lean the bike on a stand without it breaking with the weight.
it flips 12 stone up in the air like a ping pong ball off a bat...It's a complete monster.... complete...monster...complete monster...complete monster...monster...monster...


zombiess said:
lionschasing said:
with the torque that motor's got the wheelie bar'll need a wheelie bar...I was playing with that idea the other day..am thinking of giving it to the welder for a 'quick' fix :D

The falling off part is pure experience, lots of fun on a very torquey setup. Ask any drag racer who rides motorcycles how to keep the front end down on launch. When you have adjustable suspension to adjust then things such as instant center of gravity comes into play a lot more since you can vary the suspension to help compensate.
 
Wheeliebar being welded on this week :D who needs software control????

liveforphysics said:
That bike should be awesome!
 
Back
Top