40,000Watt Muscle Ebike - Hardstart twitchy throttle[SOLVED]

yes.
1)wheelie bar
2)power switch welded on
3)sprocket


mattrb said:
That welder sure is working hard.
 
In hindsight, my big mistake was not ordering the softest start controller he supplied...wtf is the point of having a 'controller' that has a 'hard start' it's absurd... you could accomplish the same thing with an on/off knife switch...i'm so tempted to buy another 36 fet with the softest start greentime can manage and call it a longshot...wheeliying can be accomplished on the softest of controllers as all you have to do is lean back! :D


zombiess said:
lionschasing said:
How do you know?
[\quote="zombiess"][
 
Cool bike.

Front battery mounted a bit lower possibly would help on the front end lift if you can not extend the rear end of the frame. For speed you want it long.

1.0x0.jpg


I also would try dropping the bars and seat and moving them both as far forward as you can go and still feel comfy.
 
coming soon with a wheelie bar on it :D stay tuned i'll do my best

mattrb said:
Tek said:
video of all this wheelie action is required.

I want to see wheelie action so badly.
 
doing both at the welder's. I am buying those same bags to make it stealth. ETA should be finished this month.

speedmd said:
Cool bike.

Front battery mounted a bit lower possibly would help on the front end lift if you can not extend the rear end of the frame. For speed you want it long.

1.0x0.jpg


I also would try dropping the bars and seat and moving them both as far forward as you can go and still feel comfy.
 
Defnitely a bold build, I look forward to seeing where you take it!

-JD
 
Dam that is a sick looking bike! Cant wait to see some videos

Those parts you brought from Aliexpress, are they the genuine article? like are they genuine A123 batteries and genuine IRFB4110's in the controller?
 
definitely genuine.

Stielz said:
Dam that is a sick looking bike! Cant wait to see some videos

Those parts you brought from Aliexpress, are they the genuine article? like are they genuine A123 batteries and genuine IRFB4110's in the controller?
 
I'm playing with the idea of making it 2WD.... how do you embed this clip from youtube? tried everything

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_eZB4_TaU4&feature=youtu.be

nechaus said:
hahahaha this is friken awesome,
id really love to give this thing a ride,

you should take it for a ride and race someone
 
If anyone is still haveing trouble with this, the cheapest (free) fix is to set the throttle min. Voltage setting as low as your throttle allows. Hall throttles are almost always outputting a very low voltage when not being activated and most controllers with displays or programming capabilities will display the current throttle voltage. Whatever it is (usually around 0.3v) set the min. Throttle value just above that voltage to get more throw range on your throttle so it doesn’t just hammer on at 1.3v at a odd position when your taking off. Also check the max voltage your throttle is outputting to controller and also set the controller parameters accordingly minus 0.2v for a much broader, more controllable throttle response and control. I’ve been victim to the and burned several controllers up due to the punch associated with a throttle set to engage at the default 1.3v or so volt setting. All hall throttles vary in quite a big way so it’s understandable why manufacturers set the default range at a number that most throttles can work. They cannot predict what yours will exactly need to be set to, it’s only a starting point and needs to be finely tuned for both safety reasons and proper control of the power delivery. I’m quite sure many of others have left this setting at default and also both struggled to maintain the bikes composure and limits to whatever setup is being used. I wish I had a better location to share this information such as it’s own topic so people can understand and better use their equipment as it is very expensive and very disappointing to burn up equipment and not understand exactly why it is happening. Thanks- Tim.
 
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