48v 1000w Golden Motor speeds

N

nitrous

100 µW
Joined
Apr 7, 2009
Messages
7
I recently purchased a 1000w Golden motor and controller kit off eBay, I was kinda hoping for 30mph on the flats.

I only get 22mph (GPS certified) and the freewheel speed (with the wheel off the ground) is 29 / 30mph. This is at 48v and in a 26 inch wheel. Is this correct? I thought I had read on here that people were getting 30mph on the flats and 40mph + freewheel speeds?

Does anyone know if golden motor do different windings like crystalite? As this would possibly explain the lower speed.

Cheers,
 
29 mph speed with the wheel off the ground does sound slow for 48v to me. It could just be wound slower, like the 2008 WE hubs but it's hard to know without a meter on the bike to tell you if you are even seeing 1000 watts. Do you really have 48v? Could be some crappy sla's came with the kit? 25-27 mph is the max to expect at 48v on many other motor brands. Maybe the 30 mph guys peadle too?

I have no GM experience, so have no idea what is considered normal.
 
Sounds like an amperage issue. What is your controller's amp limit and what batteries are you using?
 
Do you use SLA or LifePo4, and what PSI do you run your tires? (are they knobby or slicks?)

Goldenmotor lists the 48v motor as 430 rpm, the math is more than I can do in my head right now.
 
I just got a 48 v 1000w set up, It may be a gold motor but I got it direct from china, (search for my post (new hub 30mph).

I am running sla's, and I opened up the controller, and it has 15 fets (72 volt), and 62 volt caps.

Out of the box it was doing 30 mph pretty easy, I've since learned that it you back off the throttle a bit, and kinda wait for the motor to gain speed and roll in to it gradually, (also back off a bit on hills (or peddle)), it will then pull a little harder and gain speed quicker.

Also as with any new thing, it has to break in a bit, as well as your batteries need to cycle a few times to gain max power.
I noticed more power and speed after a few rides/cycles.

On another note.......I've recently been running on 5 sla's (12v x 5 = 60volt), no mods to controller, it will now cruise @ 29-33++ on flat, 25-27 up hill, tops out on a grad down hill (tucked in) @ 43mph

O..BTW...mine is a 28"/700c

Also just grabbed a 36v front kit that was on sale here, from e-bike, didn't even get out of the parking lot.....so much torque it twisted the forks open..repairing that now....more to follow..(btw..crome molly forks, but running 48v..spun the wheel out of the shop, got traction and spead the forks open)..can't wait to see what happens next :)
 
My 48V 1000W at 48V top speed 47-49km/h, at 60V 53-57km/h. I have 5x12Ah SLA little modded controller - no curren limit or you can say 2cm of 12AWG wire+ orginal shunt. No steep hills :D :D Just too hungry for current :(
 
http://www.eforecourt.com/mph_kph_speed_convert.htm

That sounds about right.

But also, speaking of wire size...

The harness that came with the kit, (the two or three prong battery harness), was to small guage, and got very warm. I replaced it with 10 guage wires and noticed and big difference in performance/speed.

I use 10 guage on all high amp connections, battery jumpers...etc
 
Ok first off please see the photos below, first one is of the hub opened up, maybe someone can tell if it is wound different to theirs? Second is of the motor case which has stamped on it 48v 1000w, (it all came in a Golden Motor box) Third pic is of my controller (The black cables I have added myself)

In answer to others questions, yes I am defiantly running 48v, I am using 4 new 12v 7ah SLA batteries just for now to see how things run, I then plan to make up my own NI-MH battery pack. Im running slick tires at 60psi. Running the wheel in free air at its max speed of 29mph pulls 0.9 amps. On a flat road at its max speed of 22mph im pulling 10 – 12 amps depending on bits of wind. My ammeter only goes up to 20 amps, but when accelerating or going up a hill the current can rise to 20 amps and probably a bit more (but the ammeter stops reading) note, this is all measured as it comes out the battery, before the controller so I don’t actually know what the controller is putting out to the hub.

If I Pedal at 27 - 28mph and then apply full throttle there is no noticeable help from the motor at all, I guess this is because I am as good as at the maximum speed for the motor as I have seen in free air.

At 430rpm I calculate 33mph on my wheel size, however I don’t know if golden motor are quoting this rpm as a loaded or unloaded speed?

So supposing this is the real designed speed of my motor, can I just plug 60v into that controller? Can anyone tell me what to look at if I open it up to check?

Thanks,

inside.jpg


hube.jpg


controller.jpg
 
44-45 wheel off ground. 30-35 on level ground. 20-25 up hills. 290lb rider. 48v Lifepo4 with 50-53v under load. 30A controller. I have the same controller... its been through hell and keeps on ticking. The Regen controller is slow as &$%^ on the same motor that I have. It topsout at 26-27 barely. My motor is laser etched 48v 1000w and I have a completely silver front hub.
 
So, lets say i want to run 60v, (which i do) :)

From reading the above posts and others on the forum, i gather that the capacitors in the controller need upgrading, the Mosfets should be ok as they are rated 75v (but would need upgrading if i was going any higher than 60v), and a power resistor needs its value changing.

This is a pic of the inside of my controller

controllerinside.jpg


There are 10 capacitors on the board. The four biggest ones are all rated at 63v. The four small blue colour ones are rated at 50v and the two small black ones 25 and 16v.

I am assuming it is only the four big 63v ones that need replacing with 100v versions? Can anyone confirm?

I could also do with a bit of help on the power resistor mod?

Thanks,
 
This is the picture of my controller. I am running on 5x12SLA. I did 1200km with mod and tfu tfu tfu nothing broken. I changed LVC level, changed crystal from 16Mhz to 24Mhz it's unnessecary, and shunted current limiter.
 

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for the power resistor mod, you need to know what the controller current is, both active and idle. then you add in enuff resistance to keep the input to the voltage regulator in the same range it is now for 36V.

for my 48V conversion, i added 300R to 150R to get to 450 ohm. this gives me 40V input when my pack is 51V. about 25mA idle current.

i assume for 60V you would add another 150-300R, up to say 720R and then if the running current is around 40mA, the power resistor would be making 1.15W of heat so use a 2W power resistor.

the 63V caps may survive use at the 5 SLA which would be about 67V max hot off the charger and drop to 63V almost immediately when power is applied.

you will need to reapply more heat sink compound to the spreader bar before screwing it into the case though. otherwise you will burn up the FETs.
 
That looks like the same 15 fet board in my controller, would do 30mph pretty easy, on 12ah sla's (4 @48v).

I have been running on 5 @ 60volt for about 60+ miles now with no controller mod, the only thing I notice (other than more speed and power :D ), is that hot off the chargers (over nite), when I first switch it on, no throttle response....I just turn it off for a second, and back on and it works fine.

I use a 48v Soneil charger, and a walmart 3 amp 12v for the 5th battery.
2 to 6, 5 to 7 mile runs daily, recharge time about 1 hr
I use 10 gauge wire, on the battery jumpers, and replaced the stock battery harness with 10 g as well.
Hit 44 mph (down grade yesterday), miles tripped 810 today (since my forum join date).. :lol:
 
Karolis said:
This is the picture of my controller. I am running on 5x12SLA. I did 1200km with mod and tfu tfu tfu nothing broken. I changed LVC level, changed crystal from 16Mhz to 24Mhz it's unnessecary, and shunted current limiter.
Click to expand...


Hi there, I think my controller is the same.
Could you tell me how to shunt the current limiter? Will this help it give me more power?

Mine sort of feels like as you throttle on it accelerates to a certain speed, then stops supplying power to the motor.
Like there is a speed sensor or something in the controller?

I put some extra solder on those bar things,,,I thought they are the shunts? anyway, it seemed to give me a bit more torque in the mid range.

Thanks for any help.

Cheers
 
Hi guys just a quick question. How much more torque does the gm 1000w have compared to the crystalyte 406? I am looking for something that is better for hill climbing thought this would be a good replacement.
 
nineball said:
That looks like the same 15 fet board in my controller, would do 30mph pretty easy, on 12ah sla's (4 @48v).

I have been running on 5 @ 60volt for about 60+ miles now with no controller mod, the only thing I notice (other than more speed and power :D ), is that hot off the chargers (over nite), when I first switch it on, no throttle response....I just turn it off for a second, and back on and it works fine.

I use a 48v Soneil charger, and a walmart 3 amp 12v for the 5th battery.
2 to 6, 5 to 7 mile runs daily, recharge time about 1 hr
I use 10 gauge wire, on the battery jumpers, and replaced the stock battery harness with 10 g as well.
Hit 44 mph (down grade yesterday), miles tripped 810 today (since my forum join date).. :lol:
Click to expand...

i had the same problem with my goldenmotor controller when i did the mod. but when i turned the controller off to reset and back on. it would go full throttle without input :shock:
so in the trash it whent :wink:
 
I have received 2 types of motors labeled as 48v1000w from GM, some have 8 wires/phase and some 10wires/phase. The 8 wire motors go about 36-39km/h and the 10 wire motors go about 47-51 km/h on 52v lifepo4 batteries, with the first motor I got from them 1 year ago going the fastest of all. I asked them why the slower rpm motors now and they said they are made for hill climbing, not speed. It would have been nice to know about that before. They said I can make a special order for a high rpm motor, but I'm thinking, hey, I just want what I ordered in the first place! The slow motors spin at about 360rpm with no load, compared to the 430rpm of the fast motor and what they are described as spinning at on their website.
 
ya my controller was cutting out with just 48v sla's so i was going to put a 5th 12v but fully charged it was 66v so i was scared to hook it up since i didnt want to fry my controller.
instead i got a 6v sla and made a 54v pack so fresh off the charge its 60v max and that solved my controller cut out and runs a little faster than before

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8AlV2MKhPrQ
 
rather than just adding more batteries and waiting for it to blow up, why not just modify it to protect it like i recommended? when karma blew the voltage regulator, that should have been a lesson, but the regulator is only a 50 cent part so why throw away a perfectly useful controller?

these controllers will actually work up to 72V lifepo4 with the 100V1000uF caps i sell for 30 cents each.

i don't know if the guy who started this thread even got anything out of it.
 
if it handles 63v max and i put 54v thats not overloading it. its working well until my lifepo comes in the mail i think

altho id like to beef up the controller for 72v in the future
 
Is anyone familiar with the other style golden motor controller(the one without regen and with integrated security? system) I got this with my motor for really cheap and I am wondering if I should even bother with it. It is enclosed with security bits so I cant even easily pull it apart and see what is under the hood. I will of course....

Anybody have any experience with these?

-Troy
 
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