60MPH 11kW Qulbix Raptor

efMX Trials Electric Freeride said:
bending / crimping the frame chainstays during production is a pretty common practice to get clearance for tires, cranks, etc..
Click to expand...
Hi.
Will not impose on your thread, snellemin, just to explain the swingarm identation:

Original Raptor swingarms were designed for a 150mm dropout. To fit the 165mm wide motors, we have to widen the swingarms at the end, but at the same time keep them narrow enough in the middle section to maintain pedal clearance (so the pedals do not touch the swingarm) (just as efMX Trials Electric Freeride says above). Therefore some indentation is visible, but that does not compromise the integrity of the swingarms in any way. The only downside is the optical factor.

In the mean time we have fixed this issue with some extra tooling so its visual effect will now be minimal (but not completly gone). Here are some pics to give you an idea, how 165mm (1st pic) and 150mm (2nd pic) look before paint job:

165mm_swingarm_bent_area_detail

150mm_swingarm_detail


There is some minimal indentation on 165mm, but that is inevitable. The swingarms that have noticable identations (as on pictures in snellemin'a post) will be replaced.

You will find more pictures on Torque Bike Frame Tech posted today on our Facebook.

Regards,
Ziva
 
Nice, its coming along.

Can you take a picture with the motorcycle seat mounted or just placed on the bike?
 
Hey I was looking at your latest pictures and your swing arm dimples are much bigger than mine. Definitely shows on yours on my swing arm you have to look at it in an angle to really tell. Just FYI
 
Still waiting on my headset to arrive. I should of ordered it from somewhere else... :( . I did receive my rim, so that will need to be laced up soon.

My worries of the controller not bolting up has be eliminated. The controller protector is flushed with the controller, so only one screw is needed to keep it in place. Double sided foam tape will keep the back of the controller in place. That rubber grommet that was sent with the kit to keep the controller wires nice and tidy, is just too small. There is no way to run all the wires through it, especially with the connectors still on. I'll just have to cut the grommet/booth and silicone it up when the wires are wrapped in.

The stock rear disk adapter is too thick for my setup. I fished out a thinner 203mm adapter from my parts box and looks like it might work with some spacers and redishing the rim. I'm going to use a cheapo 3 speed freewheel in the meantime.
 
Some better pics. Got me some more spacers from Zombies, which are thicker than what came with the cromotor. I put a cheapy 3 speed freewheel and used 2 freewheel spacers for the chain to fit.





This is where I solder, charge, datalog etc.
 
have you tried the sensorless with the motor? zombie said itll work but not smoothly like i like. just like a mac motor itll turn but like crap and i wont run it
 
botz244 said:
have you tried the sensorless with the motor? zombie said itll work but not smoothly like i like. just like a mac motor itll turn but like crap and i wont run it
Click to expand...

I haven't hooked it up yet, as I'm not in a big rush to finish the bike. Waiting on the front wheel to be built by the dude at BikeBarn.
I use sensorless controllers on my Magic Pie and GNG motor with success. I'm thinking the 18fet sensorless will be fine as long as I can modulate the throtlle properly and don't go overboard with the voltage. But I'll just have to wait and find out myself. The 18fet sensorless can always go to the Magic Pie motor and use Zombie's 18 fet controller with the cromotor.
 
Installed the fork today after I picked up my front wheel from Bike Barn.

Used a spacer on the fork before installing the Cane Creek headset.







I use just Royal Purple motor oil to install the headset.



This tool is cheap and easy to use.


 
Getting there...The bike is tall or I'm just too damn short. Waiting on more stuff to arrive next week.





 
have you had a chance to stand astride it yet? how does the 160mm width feel?
great to hear 'bout the vendor standing behind their product! good stuff!
 
I've sat on it and felt fine. But I won't really know for sure until my crank arms arrive and start pedaling. It does feel huge compared to my regular bikes that I ride.
 
Installed an old set of 165mm cranks. Still need to look for a new rear brake, as the the one I have is leaking oil at the lever. The front brake lines are find, but need to install some spacers between the brake rotors.







This is my Bike Barn :oops:
 
wow that is a huge pile o bikes you got there. I'm starting to get an overflow of parts also. Its just so hard to pass up a good EV deal :D
 
snellemin: Are you worried about the cops in texas giving you problems with the raptor? Especially with the motorcycle seat?
 
QuestionMan said:
snellemin: Are you worried about the cops in texas giving you problems with the raptor? Especially with the motorcycle seat?
Click to expand...

Dunno man. They never bothered me with my other ebikes. But my commute will be a different route now, so I'll just have to wait and see.
 
I know some of you appreciate nude shots.

18fet ebike ESC's. One is Zombie sensored 4115 and the other is Lyen sensorless 4110 controller.



sensored





sensorless

 
Got me some oldies Hope Brakes and MRP chainguides. Still waiting on my Hydraulic pressure switches for the brake cutoff.

 
What are you going to do about a chain tensioner or rear derailleur? Do you need any special length chain?
 
Leaky brakes and life is slowing my build. I will just build the bike up and look for a different solution for brakes. I tried pedaling the bike around and it felt weird withe the MC seat. Pedals is just for show in this case. The bike does feel nice riding though.

For now I'm using my old derailer and 8 speed connex chain. I did add an extension before with the 44T chain ring, but took it out when I installed the 40T chain ring.


 
I found me some Magura e-bike brakes for 80 something bucks. They are not the best looking but sure have some fat levers. The brake lines are really long for the bike. So some cutting will be required if I decide to stick with them. I'm still waiting on some new brake adapters for the fork and old school Hope brakes. I'll be working on the bike the whole weekend and see how far I get.

Those Hygia brakes are toast and require a total rebuild. I took the calipers apart and looks like I can rebuild them myself sometime in December.

I swapped out the moto seat and it looks funny. I'm going to try to install the controller inside the frame and see if I like that setup. CA will be installed on the "top tube" and some steel cutting will be required to do so.

Turning radius is really small compared to my other bikes. Dual crown fork and that long wheelbase might me a challenge on some trails.




 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

O
Can I use my keyed ignition on my Qulbix to switch the display on and off?
Replies
4
Views
216
AGS
AGS
A
HV Battery balance
Replies
2
Views
179
A.Sadek
A
S
Another Fardriver Tuning question
Replies
13
Views
489
dominik h
D
neptronix
New Moderator needed
Replies
8
Views
457
neptronix
neptronix
5
Need recommendation for Wiring Harness/new CPU/Display
2
Replies
27
Views
512
E-HP
E-HP
Back
Top